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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone here ran this hybrid method? Just curious as I may give it a shot with the new cam Harold is grinding for me :D and Crower HIPO solid lifters.

Cstraub mentioned .008 on intake and .010 on the exhaust.
 

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What is the advantage or application compared to just running a solid roller cam in the first place? Is the Hyd. roller profile just more street friendly?
 

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I set the lifters as close to .000 (cold) as I can get, using aluminum heads.
Once it warms up some lash comes into play, right around .006 or so.

jbird,needed spring pressure is greatly reduced for one.
 

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I've sold quite a few of these combo's over the years and they work great.

Jbird,
Advantages are you don't need the exotic spring pressure you do with a solid roller lobe. Since the hyd roller lobe is much easier then a solid spring pressures in the mid 140 to 160# range for most profiles work great. Cost is another, hyd roller lifters will set you back $500 where as you can get decent solid roller lifters in the $350 range.

This is a good choice for the performance enthusist that has good mechanic skills and is on a budget.
 

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So when it's all done, do the #'s come out close to what one of the tight lash street rollers would have been anyway? Seems like this way would add extra adv/seat duration and be relatively slow off the seat as compared to a real solid roller?


I've yet to figure out why we spend so much time trying to make Hyd cams do what they aren't supposed to do...and at the same time defeating the one thing they can do...keep valvetrain quiet. I guess if someone ever pulls it off we'll all have something.

What am I missing?


JIM
 

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Using a std Gen V block and the factory issue spider along with Crane horizontal solid rollers, a psuedo Rev kit if you will...

We were running 10.1`s @ 130 + mph going over at 6200-6500 RPM.
We had a "mishap" one night that ended up as a rebuild.

Consequently, when the springs were checked out, we only had 90 lbs @ the seat!!

Needless to say I was surprised..but that`s all we had, and that was with 2.25" stainless intakes too.

What can I say?!...It worked, and it worked without lifter killing, spring killing pressure IMA...

At that rate you can use $180 Herbert roller lifters and be good to go !
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the info BigRed. I'll give it a shot. How long did you run the cam before the mishap? And what cam are you running to get mid 11's on your sig?
 

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Thanks for the info BigRed. I'll give it a shot. How long did you run the cam before the mishap? And what cam are you running to get mid 11's on your sig?
We had the cam set up that way for a few months. This was a driver, no trailer used.

In a 383" back maybe 5-6 years ago I set it up the same way. Ran 11.21 @ 117 MPH in an S-10 then after awhile was put in a full size truck.
That motor probably logged 20k miles like that.


A 406 set up exactly the same way ran 11.41 @ 119 MPH in a 78 Camaro with only a handful of passes on it , had 11.1 ET potential ,especially considering it had 3.23 gears in it.
That car was driven around the area here for a few years.

Then it too went into a full size truck. Daily driven work vehicle ,loaded with his tools and equipment but only for the last year.
That 406 now sits in a cradle waiting to go into a nice 67 Camaro that will be de-tuned into a cruiser.

BTW...I checked the lash on a few valves nothing moved since last checked 5-6000 miles ago, but I`ll know for sure here shortly.



The cam in Big is a straight ahead hyd roller. All the cams are/were Ultradynes
 

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I've sold quite a few of these combo's over the years and they work great.

Jbird,
Advantages are you don't need the exotic spring pressure you do with a solid roller lobe. Since the hyd roller lobe is much easier then a solid spring pressures in the mid 140 to 160# range for most profiles work great. Cost is another, hyd roller lifters will set you back $500 where as you can get decent solid roller lifters in the $350 range.

This is a good choice for the performance enthusist that has good mechanic skills and is on a budget.
Makes perfectly good sense.
 

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I've sold quite a few of these combo's over the years and they work great.

Jbird,
Advantages are you don't need the exotic spring pressure you do with a solid roller lobe. Since the hyd roller lobe is much easier then a solid spring pressures in the mid 140 to 160# range for most profiles work great. Cost is another, hyd roller lifters will set you back $500 where as you can get decent solid roller lifters in the $350 range.

This is a good choice for the performance enthusist that has good mechanic skills and is on a budget.
Chris, why wouldn't a solid roller cam just be ground with the same specs as a hydraulic roller cam then. Just a dummy here trying to understand
 

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Lots of milder solid rollers will run just fine with 140-175# seat pressure.

Seems awful similar to me.

JIM
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Forcd ind-- I did check with the cam grinder Harold Brookshire and he suggested talking with BigRed-L72. Looking forword to the new cam from Harold and getting things running. It is his improved version of the Voodoo 60212.
 

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I have a solid roller and roller talk gets my attention quick. (I'm on my first one with near zero run time.)
If you can run a hydraulic roller at near zero lash with solid lifters what would happen if the same was done on a solid roller... is it not advisable due to ramp rates or what ? Mine calls for .015 / .018 lash.
 

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Chris, why wouldn't a solid roller cam just be ground with the same specs as a hydraulic roller cam then. Just a dummy here trying to understand
You are getting a solid roller cam, your just using the profile from a hyd family of lobes to run a solid lifter on. Same has been done on flat tappets for years, many flat tappet lobes interchange as hyd or solid lobes. When you run a solid roller lifter on a hyd lobe you now have a solid roller cam. As long as the lobe area and valve events correspond to the needed valve path to feed and exhaust the engine then thats all that matters.
 

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Lots of milder solid rollers will run just fine with 140-175# seat pressure.

Seems awful similar to me.

JIM
It depends on the closing ramp. I go with the Harvey Crane way of thinking and believe seat pressure is what is critical. You have to keep that valve from bouncing so you need stout seat pressure. And we all seem to want to spin that BBC a little higher so I feel it is better to error to the heavy side on seat pressure.

The TL stuff that most have works good and yes it can be used sucessfully. I have found over the years that when using the hyd roller lobes and light lash that adjusting valves is not often. So for some this makes a better mouse trap.
 

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I agree......how quick you shut it can cause more issues than how fast you open it. Doesn't Harold do the same thing?.......he has quite a few that are as soft or softer than some OEM stuff on the closing ramp right?


Interesting stuff......I guess the confusion comes when folks say they are running a hyd cam. You said it right..it's a solid cam with whatever lobes you picked. And as long as they have the right specs for what you are doing...I guess you could use them for a solid roller just fine.

I haven't done a lot of comaprison...but let's say you're dealing with the average [email protected]/.700 lift cam. How do the .100/.200/.300/.400 duration numbers compare as well as advertised (at recomended lash) between the average solid roller and the hyd rollers folks are using? Do the solid rollers *get with the program* any earlier than the hyd's for more area under the curve? I would expect the hyd roller would be a good bit larger here overall since there aren't any ramps to speak of? Or do they generally accelerate lifter faster with the solid and make up for it?

JIM
 
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