Team Chevelle banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part May's Ride of the Month Challenge!

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Premium Member
1972 Chevelle SS | 454 & TH400
Joined
·
628 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I will post a sound clip if necesarry but I let the chevelle sit in a parking lot on base for a week while the trans got fixed but when we fired it up yesterday a very loud knock at idle and while driving home could be heard... and it almost sounds out of both sides of the valve covers! We took the covers off to see if any rockers were loose and all were good so is it maybe a lifter? It didnt do it before!

383 stroker and cam as follows from summit
COMP Cams CL12-213-3 - COMP Cams Magnum Hydraulic Cam and Lifter Kits

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-CL12-213-3/

Can I drive it like this... easy of course? Just got the trans in so wanna go!!!
 

·
Boldly procrastrinating
66 El Camino 57 Chevy pickup 2004 Tahoe
Joined
·
29,196 Posts
I wouldn't be putting any miles on it till you figure out what's wrong with it. It's talking to you, trying to tell you something.
 

·
Premium Member
1972 Chevelle SS | 454 & TH400
Joined
·
628 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Re: Hydraulic Lifter or rocker noise?(update)

Well I know its definately not anything with the trans for sure. I took this video... Hard to see but I also see some blue smoke out of the tailpipes.

Then my wife and I took the intake off and found a valve rod* (name check) was out of the valve and then I took the valve cover off and the rocker and the rocker stud was off and laying in oil. What else should I check because I obviously didn't do these right.

Also note when I drained the oil I found about 1/4" of fine metal stuck on the drain plug....:confused:

 

·
Premium Member
1972 Chevelle SS | 454 & TH400
Joined
·
628 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So this is how I found her when I opened it up. Plus the cam looks mint.. obviously cant see the cam lobe without a mirror but could do that if recommended.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,071 Posts
If that's the way you found it, looks like that rocker backed off. It's higher on the stud than the rest. But you say 1/4 inch of metal on the drain plug isn't good either.

See if you can get a good pic of the cam in that area.
 

·
Premium Member
1972 Chevelle SS | 454 & TH400
Joined
·
628 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If that's the way you found it, looks like that rocker backed off. It's higher on the stud than the rest. But you say 1/4 inch of metal on the drain plug isn't good either.

See if you can get a good pic of the cam in that area.
Ok I will give it a shot when I get back on lunch!
 

·
Premium Member
1972 Chevelle SS | 454 & TH400
Joined
·
628 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So I could look with a mirror but couldn't really snap a photo BUT it looked mint... so looks like I got off with pure luck... as for the metal shavings.. I am changing the oil because of the loose push rod/rocker anyways and I will do another in a few miles to see if there is more. I do plan on rebuilding the engine in the winter so ill see what wear I may have then.

I adjusted the valve lash with my wife started on #1 Piston TDC and then turned the engine over clockwise until exhaust valve #1 started to open and then I adjusted the intake valve #1 until there was resistance on the push rod then turned the stud nut 3/4 of a turn then continued onto the rest in the order of firing order.

Then I adjusted the exhaust valves by doing the opposite of the intake valve adjustment started again when #1 Intake valve started to open I adjusted exhaust valve #1 and so on in the firing order.

When all was said and done I rechecked all and set the allen set screws and returned the #1 piston to TDC in preparation for setting the distributor in place. (is it OK if when the valve is shut completely the push rod can still be moved with my fingers?

To place the distributor in place I should align the rotor so it points directly at #1 Piston correct?:confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
To place the distributor in place I should align the rotor so it points directly at #1 Piston correct?:confused:
I've always , turned the engine to No 1 TDC , point the rotor to No 5 spark plug and drop the dizzy in , as the spline mates with the cam gear it will turn to point to No 1 plug lead ,
Maybe some else has a better way of doing it on here ! It's so easy to get it wrong , then your timing is wrong ,

Also with adjusting rockers , No 1 TDC , adjust inlet and exhaust 1/2 a turn down from zero play in the push rod , then turn the motor 1/4 turn ,do No 8 ,
then 4,3,6,5,7,2, ,turning 1/4 turn each time . fireing order for SBC
Make sure the adjusters are locked up ,
Seems to work ok
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,625 Posts
What i do to set my distributor is I rotate the engine by hand to where I want the spark at the #1 cylinder (12* BTDC) by just looking at the mark on the balancer (You have to make sure it is on the right stroke though- or you could end up 180* out). Then I use a long slot screwdriver and turn the oil pump by hand until it faces about the 4 o clock poistion when looking from the front of the car. Then I drop the distributor in and align the cap so that the rotor is pointing right at the #1 cylinder plug wire on the cap. If it doesn't line up too well, get the long screwdriver and turn the oil pump in whichever direction you need it to go until it will work. Then tighten down the hold down bolt for the distributor and that will be close enough for it to run, then some slight adjustments will get it dialed in.

There may be better ways to do this, that is just how I have always done it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,363 Posts
I ...turned the engine over clockwise until exhaust valve #1 started to open and then I adjusted the intake valve #1 until there was resistance on the push rod then turned the stud nut 3/4 of a turn then continued onto the rest in the order of firing order.

Then I adjusted the exhaust valves by doing the opposite of the intake valve adjustment started again when #1 Intake valve started to open I adjusted exhaust valve #1 and so on in the firing order.
The exhaust valve is not (normally) fully seated when the intake starts to open. Rotate until the intake is fully closed, then adjust the exhaust.

EO (exhaust starts to open) adjust intake...
IC (intake closed) adjust exhaust...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,218 Posts
My son's 350 had a loud tick, couldn't adjust the lifters to get rid of it. I bolted on my cutout valve cover and watched the valvetrain while it was hot, located the noisy one with the long screwdriver to the ear trick, and watched it really close. That's when I noticed the pushrod wobbling around, because it was slightly bent and hitting the head in the hole. A new set of pushrods cured it. :yes:
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top