[67EC]

I have been looking at solid rollers a bit and have been noticing the huge lifts they accomplish. I have a 350 with Iron Eagle Plat 200cc heads and 177 blower running 7psi. My cam is a hyd flat 218/230 and .462/.480 113 ls, the combo works really well.

My question is if I went to a solid roller that performed in the same rpm range, but had something like .550 lift, what kind of performance increase would I see possibly? Other than valve springs and valve clearance, what else needs to be considered when swapping? I have ZERO experience with roller cams. Thanks for any input!

 

[mike1985]

I think it depends on what you do with the car. If it's race only go roller, if it's street strip stay HYD. How does the car run now ? Any ET and MPH #'s or chassis dyno #'s ? How do you like the blower / driveability, heating issues ?

I have the same cam and a very close comparison head and use spray. I've wondered what mine would run like with the 177 blower at 7 lbs. I have been told that a 220 ish cam would make my car run better, i don't know.

Mike

 

[67EC]

Hi Mike,
Did you run [email protected] with that cam? What is the rest of your combo? What is your cars weight?

I just got the car running correctly yesterday. I think it should run at least 115-118mph, but who knows until I do it. I am looking for a place to get it dynoed, it should be right at 400 rwhp.

I am going to need a new shortblock next year and am trying to decide if I want to go all out with a roller cam, or stay with a flat cam. It is mostly a street car and I dont plan on going over 6k rpm, so I think you are right with the flat cam. I dread having to break in yet another cam though!

What heads are you using? If you've gone [email protected] on small heads, then I might feel better about using my heads on a big small block. Im trying to figure out how far I can push these heads. I think 600hp at the crank isnt impossible from what others have supposedly gotten. These guys supposedly get 600hp out of AFR 195s:
http://www.golenengineservice.com/specs/html/383_600_sc.html

I would like to know if I can get that kind of power out of a 434, 200cc heads and 5psi, I think it might be possible. I just have to figure out what cam.

Edit: Forgot the driveability. It pretty much feels like a mild 454 until you have it WOT then it feels like a reasonably strong 454, its very mild mannered. I have a Griffin aluminum 3" rad, run water wetter, water, antifreeze and have an electric fan. It idles at about 180 and so far cruises at about the same, but it was only 60 degrees yesterday, so who knows in the summer. Full throttle runs get it up to 220 pretty quickly, and it cools down pretty quickly. I think I might have alot of detonation on top with the heat it generates at WOT, I am installing an MSD timing retard this weekend to see if that helps. My CR is way too high for 7psi.

 

[MadMarv]

Hydraulic roller. best of both worlds.
I'd never use a flat tappet because I think I'd throw my motor into a rock quarry if the cam lobes melted and trashed the engine. Right now I run a solid roller, but I was sort of pressed into it, I wanted a hyd roller (would have been the 3rd one).

matt

 

[BigRed-L72]

Why bother? with a blower you don`t need as much lift or duration like you would a N/A motor.
With the right gear, say 3.42-3.55`s , a 2800-3200 converter and a good hyd F/T cam you`ll be running pretty strong.

 

[mike1985]

with the mufflers i have run [email protected], without them 12.23 @110. On a 100 shot it runs [email protected] and my quickest pass ever is with the 200 shot [email protected] I have had some tire spinning [email protected] also. My car made [email protected] and 420RWTQ on motor, the 150 shot made 380 RWHP and 600 RWTQ. I never dynoed the 200 shot.


My combo is 355 9.8-1, canfield 195's, nos cam 218-230 @.050 ( same as yours), turbo 700r-4 2600 stall ( needs to be 3200 like the turbo 350) RPM,750 VS elec choke, super comps, dual 2.5" ex with hemi turbo's ( real quiet, but real restrictive) 3.08 gears and 26" tall tires.

I also have a Griffin alum rad and with a 160 stat the car runs 160 in stop and go traffic in 90 + deg heat. stock fan and stewart pump.

I found that when dynoing my car it made max TQ at 2800 and stayed level from there, the HP did go up as RPM but not that much. from 5600-6000 it only gained 5 more rwhp. I have been thinking about switching to the comp XS 262, it has [email protected] and on a 110 LSA. I think the car would pick up on HP and still run strong all the way up to a 200 shot. I only plan to spray 100 next year, it should run high tens and that's fast enough without and type roll bar. No more low 10 sec passes without the safety stuff for me. It's hard to change anything though, as i now have 15" of vac at idle an can easily cruise down the hwy 70 MPH @ 2K with the OD and get 26 MPG on the open road.

car and driver is 3000 lbs


Lwt me know how it dyno's out.

thanks

Mike