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Hey everyone, hope you are all doing well. I am creating this post to try to get to the bottom of which Hydraulic Clutch system is truly superior as I am shopping for one that will work with my M22W Drag Race Special. Below is a list of what seems to be the most prominent systems.




This top end of this kit seems to be the most thought out. It includes all the brackets to mount the master cylinder without any fabrication or even drilling. It also includes a clutch pedal.

The 1300 series hydraulic throwout bearing seems to have a pretty poor reputation. Aside from the system having problems with leaking, reviews of this product suggest many common installation problems. This throwout bearing replaces the bearing retainer of the transmission. Owners of this TOB seem to have a problem the bearing retainer bolts from the transmission not fitting into the body of the throwout bearing. Also, I was told by the McLeod technician that I would have to use a silicone sealant against the face of the transmission. Im not transmission builder, but I'm pretty sure that is never a viable option. Without a correctly sized gasket, the bearing retainer will flex over the bearings when being torqued down. This would lead to leaks and cracks. Now, I don't believe I am forced to use silicone with this throwout bearing, I may be able to use a proper gasket, but the technician not knowing this information is a little troubling.
Source - [p]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vBKaRuhHUo[/p]

However, having the TOB bolted to the transmission seems to be a very strong design. Although, its not like the TOB needs much strength.


American Powertrain
HYDRAMAX HYDRAULIC CLUTCH ACTUATOR
https://americanpowertrain.com/shop...muncie-t10-saginaw-richmond-jericho-t5-lenco/


The downside of this system seems to be mounting the master cylinder to the firewall. The area of the firewall this system would bolt to is non existent on my car as it has already been removed for the stock mechanical linkage to pass through. Fabrication would need to take place in order to secure the master cylinder to the firewall.

The throwout bearing uses a set of shims to adjust closer or further from the clutch fingers. This isn't as hassle free as the McLeod non adjustment system or as slick as the Modern Driveline sleeve design.



Moder Driveline
Chevelle A body Hydraulic Clutch Master Kit – Type 3
Tilton 6000 Series Throwout Bearing
https://www.moderndriveline.com/sho.../1968-72-chevelle-gm-a-body-hydraulic-master/
https://www.moderndriveline.com/sho.../1968-72-chevelle-gm-a-body-hydraulic-master/


The master cylinder kit seems to be the same deal as the McLeod system although it is cheaper and doesn't come with a clutch pedal. It also includes two gaskets that seem to seal the firewall off.

The constant duty throwout bearing seems like a really nice unit. The only problem I have without it is the anti rotation bolt. I'm told by a Modern Driveline technician that this will have to be either tig welded to the head of one of my Transmission bearing retainer bolt heads or I will need to tap and dye the bearing retainer for the anti rotation bolt to thread in. American Powertrain's anti rotation bolt just replaces the Transmission bearing bolt altogether which is much less hassle.



I am very excited to hear what you all have to say and get your opinions!
 

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1969 Chevelle 2 Door Sport Coupe Malibu COPO clone
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:cool: Good post so I'll bump it up to the top.

I am NOT impressed with any of the stated conversion kits (I bought the McLeod because the quality of parts seemed high. However, the basic design is flawed). It seems to me that they all require firewall surgery (most leaving a small gaping hole). The "Perfect Fit" claim is pure Bravo Serria.

Has anyone actually found a kit that was easy to install and works well?
 

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:cool: Good post so I'll bump it up to the top.

I am NOT impressed with any of the stated conversion kits (I bought the McLeod because the quality of parts seemed high. However, the basic design is flawed). It seems to me that they all require firewall surgery (most leaving a small gaping hole). The "Perfect Fit" claim is pure Bravo Serria.

Has anyone actually found a kit that was easy to install and works well?
I know it’s a year old post I’m using a Tilton 6000 throwout bearing. And a Tilton st-246 850tq twin disc. I thought it was going to be hard to push in right after I installed it. The pressure to push the clutch pedal was around 55 lbs. I can easily push it in with my hand now after about 100 miles. I’d say maybe 25-30 lbs now. Leg pressure is nearly effortless. Using the McLeod 68-72 Chevelle conversation kit with master cylinder(it’s a Tilton MC) I’m using factory stock clutch and brake pedals. No rattles or clutch noises I’m happy with it so far. I did require a little cutting on the fire wall.
 

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1969 Chevelle 2 Door Sport Coupe Malibu COPO clone
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Using the McLeod 68-72 Chevelle conversation kit with master cylinder(it’s a Tilton MC) I’m using factory stock clutch and brake pedals. No rattles or clutch noises I’m happy with it so far. I did require a little cutting on the fire wall.
:cool: Tell me more about using the McLeod kit with the stock clutch pedal. The kit wants you to cut the firewall and the pedal block for clearance with their pedal and I'm not wanting to do that.
 

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I used the McLeod master cylinder kit w/ an American Powertrain Hydramax release bearing. The McLeod and MDL masters mount their brackets using the same bolts as the brake master. That area of the firewall is strong enough to take the pedal force without distorting. I was converting from an automatic to manual transmission so I did have to cut a hole in the firewall for the clutch rod. It hooks up perfectly to the stock looking pedal that came with the McLeod kit. Pedal effort with a Tilton ST-246 clutch is moderate.
 

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:cool: Tell me more about using the McLeod kit with the stock clutch pedal. The kit wants you to cut the firewall and the pedal block for clearance with their pedal and I'm not wanting to do that.
It increases the clutch pedal ratio. But it’ll bolt right up to the existing pedal mounts in the factory location. I had to cut a small hole in the firewall.for the supplied master cylinder. The steering column firewall threaded mount at the 4 o clock position facing firewall. Is right in the path of the hole needed. My car was a column shift originally. If you’re already manual, a slave cylinder with the ball pivot maybe a better option.
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