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Discussion Starter #1
I'm currently sand blasting all the suspension parts. Can I use POR15 on them?

Also can I use POR15 on the other brackets, etc??
 

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Justa suggestion. If you mix Muratic acid and water in a big bucket you can soak things like upper a-arms, spindles, caliper brackets, sway bar brackets, bumper brackets, etc.. I used a 5 part water to 1 part acid solution. I use it to clean my hot tub filter, so I think it is ok on plastics. Not sure what it'd do to paint.

Nasty stuff, so use chemical resistant rubber gloves. It de-rusted everything so far to a like-new metal finish, requiring minor touch up with wire wheel. Add more muratic acid to the mix when it stops bubblin'.

So far everything I have done this way, air dried then coated with POR-15 looks great.

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DG
Springfield, Ohio
70 Chevelle Malibu

www.wright.edu/~adams.6/chevy.htm
TEAM Chevelle Member #0086
Genx member (Founder 4 Ohio)
 

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Muratic acid should be cheap and availible at any hardware-bilding-type store (Lowes. Handyman, etc).

I did rinse the parts with water from hose after the soak. Wear goggles! Then just air dried, & touched up with wire wheel like I said. Course all my stuff fit in a 5-gallon bucket (had to turn the a-arms over a couple times).

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DG
Springfield, Ohio
70 Chevelle Malibu

www.wright.edu/~adams.6/chevy.htm
TEAM Chevelle Member #0086
Genx member (Founder 4 Ohio)
 

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Muratic acid is just a 10% hydrochloric acid solution. If you can't find it at a hardware store, try a pool supply place. As a side note, you probably should rinse with water to neutralize after soaking.

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if you've alreadty sandblasted the parts to bare metal, a good self etchiching primier then paint, por15 works on metal that's rusted and stops the process, por15 also sells a product called metal ready that puts a zinc phosphate coat on bare metal and etches the metal making it ready to paint.

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So if I have a rusty frame, I don't have to sandblast it if I use POR-15? I thought that all I have to do is remove the flaky rust and then apply it. Would this work? Thanks.

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1970 Chevy Custom El Camino aka Kaileigh
Green Mist & Silver w/Green Vinyl Top
350ci/300HP 4bbl & Factory Dual Exhaust
Non-SS with Factory Rallies!
TH-350 Automatic - 2.73 Posi Rear
My El Camino Home Page - www.dreamelectric.com

[This message has been edited by Shawn (edited 12-26-1999).]
 

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Shawn, I recently did my frame 69 ss chevelle, I stripped it with a wire brush wheel/grinder, then I soaked the frame with POR Metal Ready and rinsed according to directions. After it dried, I coated with POR15 I sprayed two coats then applied a thrid coat with a brush, (spray helped me get into the hard to get spots. I then applied two coats of POR chassis black semi-gloss. I will say this it looks pretty, and I dropped a rather large wrench on it the other day and it didn't even leave a mark on the frame. As for weather durability I probably won't know for another year or two. unless I hit the lottery before then!!!Dusty
 

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how does one dispose of the used solution?

what does the EPA say about it?

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??michael j Team Chevelle Gold #77
70 Chevelle SS396 4sp, Fathom Blue/White Stripes - Canadian built
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for all the input. I'm going to try the muratic. I work for Lowe's, so I'll check out the stuff. Thanks again.
 

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i've used por15 on my 69 as well, looks great and wears like iron. i did sand blast the frame first and then coated. be careful if your thinking of spraying, i understand you'll need an outside air source to breath. the only down side i see to por is it's sensetivity to light,but that shouldn't be a problem with the frame.
 

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Hey Jon, Por 15 has several top coats you can buy that are not UV sensative if you are conserned but most people on this site haven't topcoated their frame.

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Joe Y.
68 malibu
Bloomington/Normal, IL
 
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