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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, well I have a 67 with points. I bought a new coil and tried hooking everything up according to the wiring book. I had to do this because it was a mess and it looked like it was not connected right.

Well I want to know how to check my solenoid making sure that it is working correctly? I checked the voltage at the coil when cranking it, and I get zero volts. I jumpered the positive and the purple wire with a screw driver, and the motor turns. Is there something wrong with the solenoid with zero volts, or is something still wrong with the ignition.

I bought a new ignition/lock cylinder and coil.

Any help is greatly appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Can anyone with points post a picture of their coil, I need to see the wires that on there. Is there supposed to be a wire from the resistor wire to the solenoid? Making it 3 wires on the solenoid?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok guys, well I did more searching and I now know why I was not getting power at all, the positive cable was not hooked up to the junction block. Well I hooked it up and now I get power to the lights, and I get about 5.5 volt at the coil. But the problem is that I still cannot start it.

I might have to check to me sure that I put the wires on right on the coil.

One the solenoid the "S" terminal get the purple wire, and the "other" (forgot the letter) terminal gets the wire for the positive side of the coil.

Anything I am missing? The picture of the coil would really help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok, I have to check and make sure that the wires on the solenoid are correct. I extended the purple wire because it was cut off, the wire I extended it with is thicker, I believe 12 or 10 gauge, should it make a difference? If the purple and yellow wires were on the wrong terminals, would that damage the solenoid?

Can anyone provide me with a picture of a coil connected correctly?
 

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Reversing the wires on the solenoid won't hurt the solenoid.
Coil (-) gets a black from the distributor.
Coil (+) gets a yellow wire from solenoid "R".
Coil (+) gets a resistor wire from the bulkhead connector on the firewall.
What problem do you still have? No power on solenoid "S"??
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Originally posted by John_Muha:
Reversing the wires on the solenoid won't hurt the solenoid.
Coil (-) gets a black from the distributor.
Coil (+) gets a yellow wire from solenoid "R".
Coil (+) gets a resistor wire from the bulkhead connector on the firewall.
What problem do you still have? No power on solenoid "S"??
Right now, yes I only have 5.5 volts at the coil when the key is on, and the same 5.5 when cranking. Is the yellow wire directly attached to the resistor wire, or not? I had to rewire everything as the previous owner screwed everything up.

I will check the solenoid connections when I get home.
 

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The yellow wire is meant to be tied to coil (+). It might be tied to the resistor wire in a clip but doesn't have anything to do with the resistor wire.
The yellow wire provides power from the solenoid to coil (+) is the START position only. This provides battery power to coil (+) from the battery through the solenoid.
5.5 volts to coil (+) is too low while cranking. Is the starter turning with the key?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Originally posted by John_Muha:
The yellow wire is meant to be tied to coil (+). It might be tied to the resistor wire in a clip but doesn't have anything to do with the resistor wire.
The yellow wire provides power from the solenoid to coil (+) is the START position only. This provides battery power to coil (+) from the battery through the solenoid.
5.5 volts to coil (+) is too low while cranking. Is the starter turning with the key?
The starter is not turning with the key. I am pretty sure that the solenoid is connected right. Could it be that the solenoid is damaged? It looks new, but is there a way to test it?
 

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Do you have 10+ volts to ground between the "S" terminal (purple wire attached) and ground. Should have when you turn the key to START. Believe the starter has a good ground because the screwdriver jumper trick worked.
This car an automatic? If so and you have a low voltage on "S" maybe a problem with the Neutral Safety Switch...but measure things first. Cheaper that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Originally posted by John_Muha:
Do you have 10+ volts to ground between the "S" terminal (purple wire attached) and ground. Should have when you turn the key to START. Believe the starter has a good ground because the screwdriver jumper trick worked.
This car an automatic? If so and you have a low voltage on "S" maybe a problem with the Neutral Safety Switch...but measure things first. Cheaper that way.
Ok, I will have to measure the "S" terminal to ground. Do check the neutral safety switch I just check for continuity from the solid purplr to the purple with white, correct?
 

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If "S" is low, measure each wire on the NSS to ground as you turn the key. Voltage should be the same on each wire. Make sure the car is in park and the e-brake is on (for safety).
OR
Take a paperclip or a small piece of solid wire. Flatten out the ends with a hammer. Unplug the NSS connector and insert this jumper. Don't let the jumper touch the frame. See if that helps start the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Originally posted by John_Muha:
If "S" is low, measure each wire on the NSS to ground as you turn the key. Voltage should be the same on each wire. Make sure the car is in park and the e-brake is on (for safety).
OR
Take a paperclip or a small piece of solid wire. Flatten out the ends with a hammer. Unplug the NSS connector and insert this jumper. Don't let the jumper touch the frame. See if that helps start the car.
That is awesome!! Well it looks like my NSS is bad. I installed the jumper on the purple and purple and white NSS wires, and it turns!!!

Thanks a lot!! Now to purchase that 40$ NSS switch for my floor shift.
 
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