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Had new CPP disc brakes with 2" drop spindles put on my 67, and am thinking about putting regular height spindles back on... sits too low. Headers and frame/pan have about 2'' ground clearance.

How hard is it to change the spindles (I obviously didn't put the dropped ones on, or else I would know how to take them off). Need some basics on how to swap out the spindles (will also need to buy some new ones - what are some good brands for original height spindles?). Is there an easier way to raise the front up?

I'm a rookie on brakes and suspension, but willing to give it a try. Any links and/or instructions would be appreciated.

Also need to replace my brake proportioning valve that is leaking. Really dumb question, but how do you prevent the master cylinder from draining out when you undo the lines to hook up to the new valve (do it really fast?)

thanks
 

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Spindles aren't hard to replace.Do one side at a time. Place your jack under the lower ball joint and for safety wedge a jack stand under the frame behind the front wheel. The key is to have all of the cars weight on the jack. That will keep the spring in place. Remove the wheel. Then the caliper from the bracket and tie it off to the frame. (No need to disconnect the brake line.) Next remove the axle cap, nut then the rotor. You will need a pickle fork for these next steps. Remove the cotter pins and nuts from the tie rod end and ball joints. Use the pickle fork to separate the tie rod end from the steering arm. Next use the pickle fork to separate the ball joints from the spindle. There might be a slight pop when you do the first one (do the lower first) but the weight of the car on the lower control arm and the shock will keep the spring in place.Just for safety sake install the new spindle right away then attach the steering arm and disk brake bracket to the spindle. Now reinstall the rotor, caliper and wheel. Get a new seal and grease the bearings while you have it apart.
CPP has stock spindles. I used theirs on my disk conversion.
Try selling the dropped spindles on the classified section.
Get some plugs from the local auto parts store. Remove the lines at the master cylinder one at a time. It wont leak much with no pressure. Cover the inner fender and frame with a plastic drop clothe to keep and drippage from eating away at the paint.
Hope this helps.
 

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use spring pressure to pop the balljoints loose.
take the old ones out, and put the new ones in. just make sure you keep the floor jack under the lower balljoint at all times. if everything comes apart easily, then it's about a 10 minute job per side once the car is in the air and the wheels are off.
 
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