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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Man says he has a Merlin 502 that was running when it came out of a pickup. I checked worldproducts.com and see only a 509 or bigger BBC available, now anyway. The seller likely has confused 502 with a 509.

Apparantly it is a 4.5 bore with 4.0 crank, that would benefit from an extra 4.25 crank I have. All I would know to do is pull a head and see if its 4.5 bore, see if it will turn by hand, etc. I could pull the oil pan and look at rotating assembly.

Of course there could be anything wrong with the block, and I wouldn't know it. How can I keep from getting burned? There is a parts number listing for entire engine assemblies at the website, but may also be a shortblock with GM heads. The price is $750. A buddy of mine would like to use it for Pinks Arm drop in two weeks, but a bolt-in deal without freshening isn't so likely if its been sitting (in a garage) for awhile.

Changing to a 4.25 crank, longer rods would have to wait until after the season, although some use the 6.135 rod with the longer crank.

Not looking to give away cash for a pipedream though. Probably in the "too good to be true" realm. The part numbers listed seem to be for the entire engine assembly, so that's probably not the number that would be stamped on the block, also?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Seems like its worth looking into - the engine retails for just under $10,000 and at $750 seems like even I could find a way to recover costs.

Looking for a way to improve the chances its a usable block, etc. I doubt I'll be able to get the guy to install and run it. There is alot of interest in it, and I would need to move on it today.

I realize there are no guarantees and normally I avoid this kind of purchase. Maybe I'm just getting caught up in having a first 4.5 bore block.

Thanks for any suggestions.
 

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Man says he has a Merlin 502 that was running when it came out of a pickup. I checked worldproducts.com and see only a 509 or bigger BBC available, now anyway. The seller likely has confused 502 with a 509.

Apparantly it is a 4.5 bore with 4.0 crank, that would benefit from an extra 4.25 crank I have. All I would know to do is pull a head and see if its 4.5 bore, see if it will turn by hand, etc. I could pull the oil pan and look at rotating assembly.

Of course there could be anything wrong with the block, and I wouldn't know it. How can I keep from getting burned? There is a parts number listing for entire engine assemblies at the website, but may also be a shortblock with GM heads. The price is $750. A buddy of mine would like to use it for Pinks Arm drop in two weeks, but a bolt-in deal without freshening isn't so likely if its been sitting (in a garage) for awhile.

Changing to a 4.25 crank, longer rods would have to wait until after the season, although some use the 6.135 rod with the longer crank.

Not looking to give away cash for a pipedream though. Probably in the "too good to be true" realm. The part numbers listed seem to be for the entire engine assembly, so that's probably not the number that would be stamped on the block, also?
The crank and rods are worth $750 if the block is trash

The heads are more than likely worth $750

Just make sure you dont trash everything by not checking everything
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the replies. Got to talk to the seller, he is a tow truck operator who got the engine four years ago, and never heard it run, so can't stand behind it.

I'm going to take a look, and taking tools with me. The intake is already off, and I'll check oil pan and valve covers. I found the listing for Merlin engine block numbers and it could be anything from a 468 to 540, etc.

Thanks for the values; it could be a diamond in the rough, or just rough. I'll post what I found.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I got to learn how to identify the different Merlin blocks, and they are supposed to have the bore size as part of the numbering on the block. I went with print-outs on Codes from Worldcastings web-site. Now I need to learn how to tell with a Dart block.

If it was a Merlin block, its the only one with GM High Perf Truck casting letters Merlin ever made, and an engine code on the front stamping location behind the alternator. The seller was a goof who owned four big-blocks but didn't know anything about codes and was operating on the rumor the last seller told him. It was a mid-70's oval-port truck engine.

Need to do a better job of screening before making a drive. Was happy to go armed with all I learned here at TC. I keep kissing frogs, but learning every time.
 
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