Team Chevelle banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
986 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Okay, three 68s. Ones a malibu with 350/th350, PS, 198? camaro buckets, center console, rusted out quarters/trunk, needed frontend completely replaced except grill and other chrome, 10 bolt, needs interior replaced...$1350. One is a factory SS, california straight body(no rust), no engine/trans (originally 396/350HP/TH400), 12 bolt, PS, power disk brakes, A/C dash (all the A/C componets from the firewall forward were removed, also needs a new interior...$2500. Last is a factory SS (with all the SS stuff), custom interior that needs to be replaced (ugly as all hell), PS, PB, non orig 396 or 427 (can't remember), 4 speed, needs paint job...$8500.

Are these prices too much?

Here is what I want in the car: PS/PB, 4 or 5 speed, 400-500hp (small or big block), 12 bolt rear, new interior, and looking nice. This will be a weekend warrior or undaily driver (might drive it to work every other day).

My gut reaction is to go with the no engine/tranny SS. I could build it however I like without worrying about body work/rust. I thought that I could even do a 68 SS427 custom resto using impala emblems. I REALLY want to buy another car NOW! I passed up 3 68-72 Novas (just another one today...a *rare* sweep dash SS
).

P.S. I have $3000, and I'll have $200 a week for buying car stuff. THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT!

------------------
Joe Y.
68 malibu
Bloomington/Normal, IL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Beware of buck fever! What I mean is You dont HAVE to have any of these- really. I always get worked up and end up spending more than I wanted to. The no engine/trans BB sounds the best but you should be able to do better than $2500. If you've got $200/week for parts you might wait 2 months then you would be in the average ballpark for some complete cars. Some thing else to think about. It's the time of year some people are unloading stuff so they don't have to store it for the winter. Just my thoughts.

------------------
2 piece 66 SS396
'72 C20 4x4 (427T)
Gold #75
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
I've never had a '68 so I can't be too sure about those prices. I've bought a '71 with a fairly decent body, bucket seat interior, 350, powerglide, 12 bolt rear, and cowl hood for $1300. I've bought a '70 with original 300 horse 350, th350, fair body, and decent bench seat interior for $1500. I've also bought a '70 convertible with bad body, original 307, th350, poor bench seat interior, bad floors, and bad top for $2250. All these were Malibus, and, except for maybe the convertible, all sound like better cars than what you're describing for more money. I've had the chance to buy a '68 SS convt with rusted frame and crushed passenger side fender and door for either $1500 or $1900 and let it stay (BIG mistake). If I were you, I'd wait for something better for that kind of money. But I'm not, so, in the end, it's all you.

------------------
Mike
formerly known as gotapileof70Malibu
'70 Malibu
'70 Malibu convertible
North Vernon, IN
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
If I were you, I'd walk away from all three (especially the 1st). They all seem to need too much work for the cash that they are asking. The only time I'd buy a rust bucket is if it were a rare car like a #'s LS5 or LS6. Otherwise, you'll be paying too much.

I live right in the middle of the rust belt. I bought my 1st velle when I was 16. It was a beat 69 SS that was axle deep in mud, the tranny was in the trunk and the #'s matching 396 was actually a 70 402. I should've never bought this car.

The funny thing I learned from this is that by being patient, I've found straight, origonal, and relatively rustfree cars on a monthly basis. Maybe it'll be a Maliby instead of a 'Velle or a LeMans instead of a GTO, but it'd be straight, clean and ready to wrench for under $2000.

An example is my 68 LeMans. I found it w/ no motor, trans, or rearend sitting in a garage. It was an abandoned project that had been parked there since 82. I talked with the guy and stole it for $500. I waxed it, threw in a Poncho 455, TH400, and a 10 bolt, and I was crusin in a psuedo GTO for low dough.

My point is that good deals come to those who wait.

Ted Stojkovski
Syracuse NY

[This message has been edited by Tedster (edited 10-04-99).]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
I have a 68 SS that i bought from Calif. No engine, trans, everything else was there. Only 74000 miles and all i had to do was wipe off the car (inside, outside, and underneath) to get it clean. I paid 2600.00 for it and had to drive from Kansas to pick it up. The guy wanted 3500 for it but i told him i still had to pay for gas to get there (500.00). He dropped the price for that. My point is, it was well worth it for me to have a rust free car and then i could put any engine i wanted into it. I would see if your guy would drop the price a bit though as you need to replace the interior. CHRIS
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
986 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Actually, the way I'm thinking now is the other SS thats done seems to be about the best way to go. I was thinking it would take $17000 to finish that no engine/trans car. But if I go this way, I could get the 4 speed, big block, and it was a frame off resto so... I should give this car a better look over.

------------------
Joe Y.
68 malibu
Bloomington/Normal, IL
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,451 Posts
I'm late on this post, but here goes anyway. The 68 SS with no motor and trans for $2500 is a good buy, especially in the midwest. You could sell that car all day long for that price at swap meets like Jefferson in WI. I think the $8500 sounds high for the last one, especially since you'd have to redo the paint and interior in in anyway.

------------------
Rainer Seitz
Vancouver, WA
Team Chevelle Gold #50

'68 SS396 (soon to be for sale!)
'70 LS3 400 Malibu
'70 Malibu convertible 350/300hp
[email protected]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,451 Posts
just remember
1 bodywork is not cheap

2 interior kits are around $500 for almost everything (cheap)

3 make sure it's EXACTLY what you want (if not you will spend more making it that way)which is good if you buy a project cheap (ex.if you want a 70' don't settle for a 71)

4 don't take anyones word for it.

5 ss cars aren't cheap, do what you want with it and add SS badging (makes it YOUR car and not GM's)

6 complete cars are much better (small missing parts can kill you in cost)

7 Drive it until the wheels fall off or you die (which ever comes first)

4

------------------
members.aol.com/jnkb2cool/chevelle9.jpg members.aol.com/jnkb2cool/350.jpg
John Krenn
1970 malibu SS look-a-like well kinda
307/200-4r (soon to be 355 or 383)

Ft.Worth, Tx
 

·
Gold Founding Member
Joined
·
462 Posts
Good rust free cars are hard to find here in ohio as Rainer said. I myself think the 68 for $2500 is a good buy if its all there except engine and trany. It would be even better if you could talk him down to $2000. Just my 2 cents .

------------------
CFR.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,343 Posts
Joe,

I see from the date on your posts that has been a couple of weeks. Did you decide on which one? I agree with Rainer that the one for 25 is the best deal. If you were willing to plunk down 8500 on that other car you could find Alot deals in that price range. Good luck with what ever you decide. Oh by the way check that car over closely not all cars from cally are rust free. On my recent project the trunk and quarters are good but around the windows ain't so good........ again Good Luck

------------------
Jeff ACES#841 TCG#158
68 SS396(454)
68 L78 Project
87 MC SS
www.chevelles.com/showroom/ace841a.jpg
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
986 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Well, I asked about a different chevelle he had that was being worked on (front end removed, gas tank removed, etc). He wanted $45-5500 and I said $5000 for it and he took it. The frontend is having work done on it and its going to be painted. Has a '68 327/350HP out of a impala (this car originaly came with a 327) th350 with 2200 stall, buckets, and I just bought a 4.10 posi rear for it. I'm trying to get an original console shifter for it (Has a B&M Megashifter) and I have a lead on some power disk brakes. later next year maybe I'll put a muncie or a Super T-10 in but I'm still paying the guy for the chevelle (don't have it yet). I'm *trying* to get pictures that I took of it before its painted (took the pictures, now I need to get them developed) and I'll post them. THANKS FOR THE SUPPORT!!!

***
I realized after I posted it how bad this deal sounds since I didn't explain it fully. The malibu, when I get it, will be completely finished. All body work (doesn't need much of anything), paint, mechanical, etc. will be finished before I get it. I would rather do this myself cause I enjoy working on cars but for this price, why bother.


------------------
Joe Y.
68 malibu
Bloomington/Normal, IL

[This message has been edited by Joe Y (edited 10-25-99).]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
The $2500 figure is the average for a timeless classic that isn't worth a $.10/12. Keep in mind that 1968 was a strike year, and unmodified cars are priced in the glass ceiling range. SSuper Dave paid $3900 for a Granny special, and a $2000+ figure is the norm.

Anything below $2000 is nuthin but a rust bucket, and a lot of missing parts, unless a 1968 Chevelle shows up in a police auction.

------------------
The Emissary
descendant of a former Chevelle owner
http://www.angelfire.com/tx/lonestarclassics/acar.html

Tales From The Crypt -- A-Cars
http://members.tripod.com/~seributra_d/TFTC2.htm

1969 Chevelle Memories Page
http://members.tripod.com/~seributra_d/time_and_memories.htm

Chevelles (and A-cars) On Screen
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/5196/a_car.html

Disco-Era Classics
http://homepages.go.com/~55498/hooptie.htm
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top