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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going to bring in my new 468 to a local speed shop for a little dyno and fine tuning time. Have you ever brought in your car that you thought was tuned just right and after a little while these guys found more hp?
I was wondering how much more hp these guys found and is it what you were or were NOT expecting?
 

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I had a motor built and put on the dyno. After some tuning on the EFI they found 25hp and 17tq. The motor was running very lean everywhere. Something like 15.5 A/F R. Brought it down to about 12-13 I think and picked up the power.
 

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90 HP!!! Chassis dyno.
 

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I knew it was too rich, so I made an appointment for Bob Stegemeier's chassis dyno. When I got there, Bob called 4 of his friends so they could see what a Rochester injection looked like. Bob had also never seen one before. Although leaning it out netted 90 HP, the torque took a drastic nose dive at 4500 RPM. Bob attributed that to the poor exhaust port on the Dart II's, plus the fact that I still had 1 5/8" headers. AFR 210's and 1 3/4" headers resolved those problems. Engine pulls much harder on the top end now.

I plan on getting back to Bob's dyno this year for some more fine tuning. The dyno was a good learning experience for the Rochester. We learned how much a half turn on the mixture screws affects the A/F ratio, and also learned that the fuel curve is pretty flat. (The 455 ft/lbs listed in my post is somewhat deceptive since it is influenced by the torque convertor; how much, I don't know. Given that, 455 is still a stout number, IMHO, for an N/A 406. Stegemeier pointed out that the amount of torque was good even though the torque curve was bad.)

On the negative side, the Rochester looses about 20 CFM, which translates to about 50HP over a GOOD modern 4 bbl and manifold. However, the Rochester was the original pattern for tunnel ram manifolds, so there is some possibility that extra power being picked by the "ram effect". My sole reason for using such an archaic intake is good A/F consistancy. It has the effect of a streetable tunnel ram without the bogs, pops, and lags of carbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
??????? What were the parts? Would be nice to know?:yes:I wish I could add 200hp with a mere $15.

Frank,you will probobly be suprised to see what you make and what your real A/F ratio is at.
Mike- My A/F ratio is one thing I am interested in finding out. I am running a stock QuickFuel 850 on my 468 and I don't know very much about the jetting. Should I or does a decent shop have different size jets to play with?
I hope at the end of the day I am pleasantly suprised...:D
 

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Jet kit would be a plus,they are a great investment. Holley sells the kits for a resonalbe price in summit and jegs. I couldn't do without em'. Putting my motor together and getting it to run wasn't hard,but to tune the A/F ratio took time and tinkering. I need to change jets a few times to get it right to get WOT dead on. I use a LM1 Innovate A/F meter and no dyno. I'd like to dyno this motor but probobly won't.

All motors are different. Your motor might make more power at 13.1 v.s 12.2. You'll see what the dyno tells you.

Personally IMHO...the best way to tune for power is run a WBO2 unit at the drag strip. You can see the results and moniter A/F ratio during a run and go from there. Best way to improve on power/et to me. Dynos can be misleading.
 

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I'm not an expert, but I have used both engine and chassis dynos pretty extensively as a hobbiest. I think a 5%-10% increase on a chassis dyno is a reasonable expectation to have for a typical dyno tuning session. There are many variables that will effect the outcome of your dyno testing session such as:

- baseline tune up (how well is the engine working now)
- amount of time spent in dyno session
- type of data collection (RPM, fuel pressure, 02, etc...)
- proficiency at tuning (being able to analyze baseline data and tune accordingly)
- types of changes made during tuning (air, fuel, timing, advance curve, etc...)

The best advice I can offer is to make a list of goals/what you hope to accomplish ahead of time. Talk to friends with similar combinations to find out what has helped their tune up. Make a spreadsheet or hand written list of the parameters you wish to track during the tuning session. Make a couple of baseline pulls prior to making any changes (unless something is severly wrong during the first pull). Minimize the number of changes you make between pulls and document the changes in a detailed fashion. Dyno time can get expensive, especially when you want to make a lot of changes. The more you plan ahead the better organized you will be and the more productive the dyno session will be. Lastly, you may find that the optimal tune on an engine/chassis dyno will not always produce the best ET/MPH at the track. What you're really looking to accomplish with dyno tuning is to see how a given change affects the overall power curve, and to ensure that the results are measurable and repeatable.

HTH....
 
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