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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have my Hydraboost all rebuilt and ready to go, even have an adaptor for it.
What I don't have are the high and low pressure lines and fittings.
Does anyone know if I can use the 1500psi PFTE hose, or must I use the 2500 psi ?
I would rather have it in black also, if anyone knows where I can find that ?
Thanks T.C.
 

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Boldly procrastrinating
66 El Camino 57 Chevy pickup 2004 Tahoe
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1500 is more or less within the range of what a good GM PS pump can produce, I'd use the higher rated hose.

Wonder what the stock rubber is rated at?
 

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I had my Hydroboost lines made at a local auto parts store. I kept the original hydraulic lines from the donor car, cut the hoses off leaving the end fittings and mocked up the length I needed with plain hose. I then brought them to the local auto parts store and they installed compression style ends to attach the original fittings to the new hydraulic hose at the right length. Works great and I didn't have to buy a $300 hose kit. It cost around $80.
 

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Hydro-boost systems use hydraulic pressure from the power steering pump to amplify brake pedal effort. Pressurized fluid also flows through the hydro-boost to the steering gear to provide power steering. When the brakes and steering are at rest, pressure runs about 150 to 200 psi. Expect to see about 450 to 600 psi during normal brake application or when the wheels are turned. As more demand on the system takes place, the power steering pump can increase working pressure to 1200 psi or more.
Excerpt from this article
 

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I used stock black pressure hoses for a mid 80"s Buick or Olds full size that came with a diesel. New ones fit out of the package with no mods. I used the Jeep GC box and the o-ring hoses fit nicely. I also use a pump from a 3/4 ton GM truck with 2 drain back nipples. You will love it once it is all bled out properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the replies guy's, all are helpful.
Not sure what I will do yet but I am sure it will include the higher pressure lines.
Thanks for the help and your time.
T.C.
 

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I used the stock replacement hoses for a 2003 C30 with a 6.0L engine. Fit the Chevelle real well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Philip, I just have to decide if I want to spend big bucks to be fancy or save a bunch and be functional
Guess I could upgrade later on if I wanted.
T.C.
PS good job on the wagon !
 

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Not sure what fittings your unit uses, mine had metric threads so the 03 hoses fit. The unit was out of an 03 C30 with a 6.0L and modified to fit.

 

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I used stock black pressure hoses for a mid 80"s Buick or Olds full size that came with a diesel. New ones fit out of the package with no mods. I used the Jeep GC box and the o-ring hoses fit nicely. I also use a pump from a 3/4 ton GM truck with 2 drain back nipples. You will love it once it is all bled out properly.


I have a similar setup. Can you list your bleeding procedure?!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks Philip the picture really helps
The only thing is, when I rebuilt my Hydraboost I flipped the rear half so the accumulator would be on the fender side.
My hose ports come out the bottom and I guess would be flipped as to left and right hook up so the hoses would need some adjustment.
Do you happen to have a good picture of the pump and steering box hook up's ?
I'm thinking with a little creative bending I can make those work?
Thanks again T.C.
 

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I did most of the bleeding prior to starting the car. With the engine off and the front wheels off the floor, turn the wheels lock to lock 30-40 times to work out as much air as possible. Top off the PS pump reservoir constantly to avoid Let it set several minutes and repeat. Start the engine and repeat the lock to lock procedure again. Let it set and do it again.

The first few drives may show up jerkiness in the steering assist, but it gets better every time it gets driven. Plumbed properly, the pressure goes to the brakes first, then the steering. The steering is more sensitive to the air than the brakes are so it is more noticeable there. It'll work itself out quickly and you will be very satisfied.
 

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It helps to bleed the system with the wheels off the ground and doing the lock to lock. Builds less heat.
 

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Bled with the wheels up and turning the wheel slowly with the engine off. Started the engine to circulate the fluid, shut down refilled fluid in the pump. Did this several times until the level remained constant. Then turned the steering with the engine running a few times. Haven't driven the car yet.

Terry here are some photos of the pump. I added a return pipe for the unit. Also removed the plastic covering that came on the hose.





 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks again Philip
If I may ask you another question ?
Do you think these lines are flexible enough to rotate one end 180 degree after I hook them up to the Hydraboost ?
My lines come off the bottom of my Hydraboost therefor these lines will be clocked 180 out at the box and the pump.
Thanks T.C.
 

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Terry IMO they will not rotate easily. The hoses are very stiff plus the line from the hydroboost to the steering gear has a very long hard line at the booster. It would stick up quite a bit above the hydroboost.



I did not have any clearance issues between the accumulator and the engine.

 

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Thanks for the great pics!
 

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Thanks Philip, looks like you are correct.
on to plan "B" .
just got to save up a bunch of money
T.C.
Other vehicles may have different configuration of hoses. the NAPA store I work at has a paper catalog with the different configurations. it has a photo of each hose and the length and fitting sizes. Maybe a local to you parts store will have one you can look through.
Thanks for the great pics!
You're welcome. A picture is worth a thousands words and I am a very slow typist but can take a lot of photos :wink2:
 
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