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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey again everyone! another simple silly question...

I donnu jack about the cars electrical system other than the basics... battery, alternator..12 volts... thats about it.

After getting the AC running strong (at a shop) (r134 conversion and vacum fix for vents)m 2 things r happening.

Main focus is that I notice the voltage gauge drops to about 11 when AC is running at idle or slow speeds. I'm wondering if this is bad in any way?

second and not really my main focus right now is the cowl induction no won't open.
 

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Hi
There is an Electrical forum down below a little ways.
13.5 volts is considered minimum. 13.2 volts has been the best some guys got out of a trunk mounted battery system. 11 volts means you are not charging.
 

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AC compressors are notorius current hogs. Did you mean that the cowl induction will not work at all, or just if the AC is running.
11 volts is not enough to activate a seleniod properly, reliably, or quite likely, even at all.
Not charging sounds like a disctint possibility because at idle (w/o the AC on) you should see 13 volts (more than 12 anyway).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'll try the cowl with the ac off, and see if I can see what the amp gauge reads with ac off, and ac on under strong throttle. Report findings 2morrow.

I suspect that I will need a better alternator, would like to plan ahead for electrivc fan conver. and stereo install.

Any suggestions there?
 

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That low voltage is bad if you spend a lot of time at idle or low voltage. If you're usually at higher rpm's and the alternator is producing over 13.5V then you'r OK. If you do idle a lot then an internally regulated alternator is the way to go. For an electric fan you might as well go right to a 100A or 130A alternator since anything below 100A is working really hard to run a 40A or 50A electric fan.

Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ok,
cowl doesn't open period.

with ac off, amp meter reads about 13 volts, sometimes a tad more, sometimes a little less.

I have no idea what "internally regulated" means..although i can make an assumption.

I sure don't mind swapping the anlternator, actually would be comfy doing so. Can anyone point me towards a specific alternator that can run everthing I plan on running? Fans and stereo, alarm.

Also, whats a 'single wire' alternator?

Also, y do folks move the battery to the trunk?
 

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I like the CS144, it’s a 108 amp alt. found on many mid 90s GM cars. The last one I got came from a 94 Cadillac, a recently rebuilt alt. for $7.50 half price day at the local U-Pull-It normal price is $15.00. It’s almost a drop in replacement with easy wiring mods. I like it because it can crank out some 60 – 80% at idle. Another option is the CS130, also found on 90s GM cars, it’s physically smaller than the 144 not as high output at idle but will work well for your application. Check this tech reference for more information.
 

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Elree’s a brave dude to head down to those places on half-price day. Around here they are a mad house and there’s no parking an hour after they open. At Pick-a-Part here alternators run around $16.00 normal price. Finding one that has just been replaced is a challenge. Have found a 12 SI for my 84 Olds with a 3.8 with A/C. That’s a 94 amp model that has the normal v-belt pulley on it.
If I remember right SI is System Integrated and CS is Constant Sensing but if you ask someone for an alternator by those letters, hardly anyone is going to know what you are talking about. If you don’t want to cut or solder up the wiring harness there are harness conversion kits for either the SI or CS alternators at M & H. Just select your car and they are listed in there with the other harnesses. Around $15.00.
www.wiringharness.com

Rock Auto should show stock alternators on their site. Believe they are at www.rockauto.com
 
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