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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been bustin my butt all day, but have the complete front end and one 1/4 panel to bare metal finding a total of three paint jobs underneath. Three applications of stripper, then big wire cup brush, then DA with 80 grit is the quickest way I've found.
Finding nice suprises along the way too. Now I see why it's important to totally clean bare metal and remove all rust. Then to use good epoxy. If I were to paint over this mess, I would have had nice bubbles for sure.

Just rambling.......
 

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Not long for me. I take it to the media blasters, and a couple of days later they call me up and tell me to come and get it. :)
 

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Not long for me. I take it to the media blasters, and a couple of days later they call me up and tell me to come and get it. :)
how much do they liberate from your wallet?
 

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Last one I had done was $600.
 

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6 hours to strip a car. Drop it off at the sandblasters in the early morning, pick it up that afternoon and pay them $700.
If you can't afford to have it blasted. Skip that using chemical strippers,wire cup brushes and 80 grit, go right to 40 grit on an 8" DA Sander (Mud cutter), and you'll be done in about 8 hours. FWIW, wire cup brushes are useless for stripping paint and chemical strippers juts make a mess. Make sure you have a respirator on while stripping paint, the dust isn't good for you.
 

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Ok now here is what you need to look at when stripping paint.
Materials costs aprx $25 per gallon for stripper, gloves, tape, sandpaper. wire brush for nooks and crannies, scraper, poly for the floor, wrecked clothes. ect.
Add on top of that lights, air, disposal, retouch and other misc. 1 entire day spent stripping 1/2 day prepping 1/2 day cleaning up after and you have not even figured in your labor yet.
 

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Had three apint jobs on my car - original factory paint, then a laquer repaint, all covered by an epoxy sealer and metalflake BC/CC. Used stripper/scrape then 60 DA. Hardest part to remove was the original factory red-brown primer, that stuff was hard as nails. Ended up only doing my body shell, doors, trunk and hood here by hand. Took the fenders and front valance to to a paint stripper.
 

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Definitely skip the stripper, it's expensive and slow. The last car I stripped was done on a Saturday afternoon with a body grinder and a box of 36 grit discs. It makes a heck of a mess so wear a respirator and old clothes but it's quick and effective. Once you rip most of the paint off switch to a finer disc (80-100) to get the majority of the scratches out before priming.

Tom
 

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If you play that burlesque stripper music, it goes much faster
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The few blasters around wanted 900-1200. Way too much in my estimation, so I'm going the chemical mess, wire cup brushes (actually saves some time and discs) and 36 grits on the DA.

I also have three paint jobs to remove, totalling like 6 main layers of paint. I guess I'll have about $120 and 16 hours into the deal and I work fast. I least I thought I did?

This part r e a l l y r e a l l y sux.
 

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The few blasters around wanted 900-1200. Way too much in my estimation, so I'm going the chemical mess, wire cup brushes (actually saves some time and discs) and 36 grits on the DA.
This is no time for finesse, lose the DA and get yourself a 7" body grinder. The DA can come back out when you get some primer/surfacer on.

Tom
 

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I used aircraft stripper on one of my Camaros and it only took a day to strip the whole car.
 

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I have to tell you, I had a buddy who would strip a car (He did my 68 Camaro) in one day, done deal, shiny metal.

But I have to recommend NEVER strip the complete car, not unless you are going to work on it FULL TIME after you get it done until it is in primer. I suggest one panel at a time, get it in primer and move on to the next. A completely stripped car is SERIOUSLY overwelming to your average home hobbiest.

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hey Brian! Welcome back! They were just talkin about you in Bench Racing and where you've been.

As for the stripping, I'm used to being overwhelmed and this ain't my first rodeo. I've got a lot of time off of work the next two weeks and my goal is to get ready for paint working 8-12 hours a day. I'm fully prepared for the ordeal, but you have great advice. I'm not rushing anything, yet, I have a goal and I'm going to do my best to nail it.

I do have a question. I've always epoxy primed 2 coats over 80 grit etching. is this what most others do? My thinking is the bigger the scratch, the better adhesion.
 

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I just don't have the time to hit all the forums as I once did. Epoxy is a VERY sticky primer, 80 grit is just not necessary.

Honestly, "we" have been using MUCH coarser grits than needed for years on many different things.

In the last number of years things have really changed on this subject. Cleaning metal for filler for instance, most OEM manufacturers recommend a ROLOC disc and no grinding what so ever. Evercoat recommends NOTHING coarser than 80 grit on ANY step in the filler process. Sanding the bare metal with 120 is PLENTY coarse enough for epoxy primer. 80 grit will scratch the metal damaging it.

Brian
 
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