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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
how many passes do the radials last on a 11-12 second car?


also: im looking to buy a set of local wheels that are drilled for slicks. is it ok to get these wheels if i only want to use a radial tire?
 

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It depends on how hard the car launches and how much it spins, The old car with the stick only got 20-25 passes then the sidewall were breaking down from the launch
 

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I have around 40 passes on mine when it was a 12.0 sec car and another 10 passes now that its a 10 sec car, plus 2000 or so street and highway miles and more than a few stoplight burnouts. They are getting thin but frankly I'm amazed and impressed they have lasted this long. Its hard to beat tires you can drive 40 miles to the track on and then pull a 1.48 60' in a pig heavy car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ok good. i wll only be using them on the track. around 20 passes a month. as long as they last me until august ill be happy.
 

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One crappy track night will take a month and 10 runs off their life. Each time through the box you'll fry them a little bit harder in search of last weeks launch. If burning them in hard yields results once, yoo'll be doin' it time and again, usually without success. How do you think that Drag Radials got the reputation of "Hero to Zero".

If your lucky enough to continuously line up behind cars with "race" tires (slicks or DOT equivalent), then I could conceivably agree on 50 runs, maybe. Street tires on the track spell disaster for Drag Radials, as does street driving, even if it's only to and from the track. Every exhibition of power, the stripes that you see in your mirror might as well be money.

You know it's bad when you can visually notice the difference in tread appearance everytime you get out of the car. On a good note, they're still good to go long after the grooves have disappeared. That is, as long as you can avoid rain and the law.
 

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ok good. i wll only be using them on the track. around 20 passes a month. as long as they last me until august ill be happy.
Did you get a run in yet with your timing now sorted out?
 

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i have a question about the tires as well, I have heard that with the tires like et street's you dont have to do as long of a burnout as say if you had full race slicks. is that correct!!!!

thanks
 

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i have a question about the tires as well, I have heard that with the tires like et street's you dont have to do as long of a burnout as say if you had full race slicks. is that correct!!!!

thanks
I have never used ET Drags, I use Et Streets, We do a long burnout on a cold track and a short burnout on a hot track, this will help get best traction

Goodyear's need a longer burnout usually
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i have a question about the tires as well, I have heard that with the tires like et street's you dont have to do as long of a burnout as say if you had full race slicks. is that correct!!!!

thanks
im sure that is correct because they arent a bias ply type of tire that doesnt require heat to grip up like slicks do.

on my street tires, i only burn em thru first and roll out of the box in second just to clean them off. i will probably be doing the same thing with the et streets. no more then a quick rip thru first and maybe halfway thru second.
 

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im sure that is correct because they arent a bias ply type of tire that doesnt require heat to grip up like slicks do.

on my street tires, i only burn em thru first and roll out of the box in second just to clean them off. i will probably be doing the same thing with the et streets. no more then a quick rip thru first and maybe halfway thru second.
They are Bias Ply, He is talking about ET Street's, M/T has ET Street and ET Street Radial which is a radial of course
 

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what about that question?
Personally, I think that I would pass, unless the radials that you speak of are actually slicks requiring a tube. I am of the impression that you mean a tubeless DOT Drag Radials, in which case, screws would not be necessary. It just seems like it opens the door to the possibility of the beads not seating or leaking air. Not to mention the obvious, looks, call me vain, but a bunch of holes don't sound very visually appealing.

If the style and size are exactly what you are looking for, I would consider buying them only if dirt cheap. Who knows, true slicks may be in your future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Personally, I think that I would pass, unless the radials that you speak of are actually slicks requiring a tube. I am of the impression that you mean a tubeless DOT Drag Radials, in which case, screws would not be necessary. It just seems like it opens the door to the possibility of the beads not seating or leaking air. Not to mention the obvious, looks, call me vain, but a bunch of holes don't sound very visually appealing.

If the style and size are exactly what you are looking for, I would consider buying them only if dirt cheap. Who knows, true slicks may be in your future.
the wheels i am getting are dirt cheap and they have holes drilled in them but they are covered up by caps of some sort.

the reason i would go with the et streets instead of full slicks is because tubes are more money, i heard slicks last just as long as the et streets, and any old tire place could mount the et street radial tires on my wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
ok well i bought the wheels. 50 bucks for 3 gm rallys. i had to. 15 inchers with 4 1/2 inches backspace and 8 inches wide. the two that i am going to use were absolutely covered in rust. after a few hours of cleaning them up and painting them primer, they look good as new. i checked the holes out for the screws, and the one wheel has all the holes plugged up with what looks like a small piece of metal welded in there. the other wheel has the same thing except for two holes which arent covered up. i think im just going to weld those up too and run the mickey thompson et street 27 inchers. the only thing i need is a couple valve stems and caps.
 
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