[Jim Mac]

Wife settled on a pontiac Vibe for her next car. We see one on line at a dealer. They send a internet coupon, it was listed at 17K, the coupon was sent for 12,999. When the wife gets there, the sales lady says she hit the wrong key, and its 15,999. The car is a 06 vibe GT with just over 8000 miles, on it, 6 speed, moonroof, alloy wheels. etc. By the time we left, we never made a offer, but it's down to 14,897, plus tax registration and $299 doc fee. The vibe has whats left of the 3 year 36K warranty.
Or they have the 08 vibe, base model with automatic for 16,150 plus the tax,title, doc. That price was with all the rebates. So where do you go from there? Is that priced about right? Wife says they showed us the invoice, but you can put anything on paper.
We've bought 2 cars from a car dealer, and both times when I left, I just got the feeling I got hosed. Jim

 

[Nor Cal Chevelle]

Look up the new car invoice cost on KBB.COM. I would pay no more than invoice cost + $500 less rebates.

 

[musclecarjohn]

I work in the car biz and even I have to admit it's pretty hard these days.Seems more and more of these dealers just try to slam you hard and never even consider you as a possible repeat customer...sad really.:sad:
I would recommend trying to work with a broker who will generally have your best interests in mind and should be able to secure you a great deal with a minimum of headaches on your part.:yes:
They can generally make it a very smooth transaction and very often,you can have the car delivered to your home or business and you never have to set foot in a dealership or have to deal with all that bait & switch crap.

Good luck to you...

 

[JWA]

IMO doc fee is too high. I just bought my first new car and the doc fee INLCUDING the $108 plates and title transfer was $167. Invoice price can be found on the web. Have your own financing preapproved and don't play the 4 squares game. Dealer holdback from what I read on the web is about 3% for GM products. Not sure if that is a fact though. (www.motortrend.com) Edmunds is agood place to figure out pricing:

http://www.edmunds.com/pontiac/vibe...eq.cvehicledata##-1##-1~~nf12||506f6e74696163

Are you able to use USAA? Or possibly the GM XPlan? Through USAA you can get aprenegotiated $500 over invoice price on the base and a few dollars more off of invoiced options. GM Xplan is for folks who work for companies that can get other prenegotiated pricing on select models.
Working the dealer a little I got a better deal though them than even what I walked in the door with for preapproved financing.
Is the used Vibe GM certified? If so the powertrain warranty should be good for the balance of 5 years/100k miles. The time on both is based on the original selling date of the car when new.
Hope that helps.




USAA shows the base model 08 Vibe @$15283 The auto is a $900 add on invoice.

 

[350_Malibu]

Ask them to see the "Factory Invoice". Offer them 4-6% more then the "Factory Invoice", plus dealer add ons. You can usually wheel and deal on the add ons as well. If they give you BS about not having a factory invoice or try to show you the dealer invoice (window sticker) instead, then walk away.

Dealer Invoice = Window Sticker Price (marked up price + add ons)

Factory Invoice = Invoice from the factory with what they really will pay for the vehicle, period.

 

[Jim Mac]

Jeff, thanks for the info. I guess the 16,150 for the base model with auto is about right. The used one has the balance of the 3 year 36K warranty. I found a Vibe forum like this great forum. I posted a couple questions there. Mainly how long the stock clutch lasts in these things. Also after having issues with the hyundai manual tranny, I looked on the repair forum and some folks were having issues with the manuals. We may just go for broke and buy the new one, as much as I hate to do that, at least you get the warranty. Jim

 

[Cameano]

The new one will have a lot more warranty to boot. My son recently bought his first car, and I had the chance to guide him through the process. We went to the dealer, had him look around, and priced one out with options he wanted. Then he went to the credit union and applied for a loan. They preapproved him, but I convinced him that even though they approved him, it was still a bit spendy for his paycheck. So he went out and found a used one, saved $8k for an '05 model, and everyone's happy.

One thing I've found out is, if you're going to buy from a dealer, do go in with preapproved financing. Do not offer up any cash to put down on the deal. Offer up a trade-in, and go for max value on it. If you offer up cash in the deal, it always gets soaked up somewhere by the finance guy, and you'll never see any benefit you thought you would. Tell them no money down, then put the money down on the loan once it's in the bank. This is why dealing with outside financing works so well, you keep control over your payments. And go in around 6:30 to 7pm. You will be bargaining way past their closing time. The later it gets, the better the deal gets, as they'd rather move a car than do nothing at all for their overtime.

 

[Alan]

I buy from my family member who has worked at the same sales and leasing firm for nearly 30 years. He's essentially a broker. Hassle free deal. For example, my brother was looking for a Toyota Avalon a few years ago. Dealers wouldn't budge off MSRP. Our family member, Paul, got the car he wanted for $4k off MSRP. I've referred my manager to him twice (once for an Acura TSX and most recently for a Lexus IS250(?)). I bought my '05 GMC Sierra through him, but that was during the "employee discount" days and he couldn't get any better deal than that. Until he retires or passes on, I'll never buy another vehicle anyother way. He actually makes you smile when you get your new (or used) vehicle. Before I used him, all I ever did was walk away from a dealership discussed (mainly because of the time wasted).

 

[novaderrik]

the only way to not get screwed over by a dealer is to not buy from a dealer.

 

[Andy69]

Buy your cars from Carmax.

 

[animal69]

Don't buy from a dealer is the only way. You have to do your own research before you go to the dealer including financing. I buy cars at or slightly above invoice. Doc. fees are way out of line. In MI they are $40.

 

[mr 4 speed]

Pay cash and act like the biggest a-hole there is

 

[dreis454]

Pay cash and act like the biggest a-hole there is

always works for me

and @ 6'3" 375lbs I just might me!

 

[DZAUTO]

MOST people, including MOST of you here are unwilling to do what it takes to get a "good deal" on a car from a dealer.
It's called negotiate, play the game, haggle, or whatever term you choose to use to describe the process of getting the best car for the best price.
I worked at a new car dealership for 7yrs, 5 as a salesman and the last 2 as the F&I mgr (finance and insurance).
There is one, ONE, ONE objective of a dealer, SELL AND MAKE A PROFIT. Making a profit is fine, this is America, I have zero problems with this. This is also the land of opportunity------------------YOU MAKE YOUR OWN OPPORTUNITIES BECOME REALITIES--------------------- or miss out. Too simple.
The dealer needs to sell cars. The salesman needs to deliver units. And you need to make the best buy, and that is ONLY GOING TO HAPPEN if you are willing to be a HARD and DETERMINED negotiator! When I was a salesman and recognized that a customer was a BUYER, I sometimes had to help them instead of the dealer because it meant a delivered unit for me. Salesmen work on commission, and a small commission is better than no commission.
Virtually NO WOMEN will ever be a hard nose negotiator. They will start out OK, but can be overcome by the sales pressure in a short time. Most men will last a little longer, but usually give in to varying degrees.
Also, many people say they will not play the game. As a result, they don't get the best deal and they just do not understand why!!!
You MUST stay in there, keep battling, stick to your guns and don't give up or in. Once you demonstrate that you will compromise, you're doomed.

Whatever price is told to you as the price that it takes to buy the car, can be reduced. Do you REALLY think they are going to offer to sell you a car at a loss?????????????? GET REAL!
Whatever price they tell you, you make a stupid, I mean really STUPID counter offer. As an example if they say you can buy it for $20,000, you offer $14,000. Whatever amount they come down, you come up a lesser amount. Example, if they come down $1000, you come up $500. If you are a strong negotiator, they may bring in a second sales person (or sales mgr, new meat). Don't let them do that. If you kind of liked the original salesman, tell them you will only deal with him or you're leaving (this wears down the original sales person). If you don't arrive at a price you are happy with, GET UP, I mean, GET UP and head for the front door. One of two things will happen, they well let you leave, OR, they will come get you and offer a better price. Getting up like this and heading for the door is good for about 2 times (MAYBE 3). If they let you get in your car and drive off, then you know they had done all they could.
This is for the negotiated price of the car.

Next, is the trip to the F&I man.
This is too simple. BEFORE going to buy a car, arrange your own financing with your bank, credit union, finance source, whatever. Be prepared to pay cash, write a check, or whatever. When they hand you the paperwork for documentation fees, get up, tell them you're not paying it, and head for the door!
Can't do all of that? OK, fine, but don't whine, cry, moan, piss or complain about not getting a good deal. If you don't get a good deal, IT IS NOT THE DEALER'S FAULT---------------IT'S YOUR FAULT!!!!!!!!!!!!
Like I said originally, the dealer is in business to sell cars, AND, make a profit! What part of that do you not understand??????????????? I know, I was in the business for 7yrs. Most money I ever made in my life. Most pressure I ever experienced. Most hours I ever worked. Most time I ever lost with my family. Now I have a wonderful govt job! Good pay, lots of leave time, good benefits, and I never miss out on Chevellabration! :hurray:

(Dan was a little more direct above).

 

[1BLACKHARLEY]

my wife doesn't feed me before we go car shopping. unfortunately when i'm hungry, i get real testy. my wife told me i once made a salesman cry.

first, in the price range your looking, you can get a new car for the same price. let me explain, 15,999 at a higher used car rate, vs. interest rates on new cars, heck i think some have 0% finance right now, you'll never find that on a 2-3 year old car. second, a 2 year old car with only 8k on the clock, why would anybody get rid of that, i smell trouble.

what some have said here, you need to negotiate your butt off, when ibought the 05 mustang, everybody was marking them up 3-5k, i paid under sticker, and got more than 50% off extended warranties. look for a dealer that is reputable, then go in at months end, they want to move stock, get a young saleman, he needs the $, don't fall for comaradie ploys, it doesn't matter if you both pluck your brows or bowl on the same league. don't be afraid to walk out. take a calculater with you to catch some of the b.s.
example: how much do you want to pay per month? well we can do that, for 185 months....
most dealers these days, put you in a room, with nothing in it, and run numbers in and out till you see something that catches your eye. know what your paying, not just monthly, but over all.

when i'm in a car dealer, no matter who is being friendly, it's you versus them. the $ they want to take from you, and the $ you want to keep. girl i know recently bought a used honda @ 24%, i imagine i clould have got a new one for the $ she'll pay for the used one. it's work, approach it as a job, and the $ you save is your payoff, and as a job, if you take your time, and work, you'll find a good deal, versus speeding threw it and doing it half ass.

have a plan. when looking at vehicles, look at comparable vehicles to see what the better deal might be. at 15,999 for an 06 vibe, i think you could buy a new hhr or other comprable car, or better yet, look into private party sale, in this economy, you'll find a comprable vehicle on the street usually for less than a dealer. also look for loss leaders, you might get a few less options, but you can get a decently optioned car for a decent deal. who really cares if you have global positioning, if you have a/c, and a decent sound system.

 

[EdCarpenter]

One tidbit I will add. You can't get the best used car deal on a same product the dealer is selling new. They jack the price up on the used one and refer to the cost of the new one to show the minimal depreciation you can expect. Be cautions when looking at the certified used cars. Some will be low miles and the dealer pionts out the 1M check points the vehicle has gone through. Give me a break. A low mile car had a wash, vacuum, engine cleaning, and tire shine. Low mile cars with proper service shouldn't need this certification = price inflation.