In the simplest of terms you need to do the following:
-remove the hood from the car
-remove the exhaust manifolds/headers
-drain the coolant and disconnect all the hoses, pull the radiator out of the car
-remove the alternator and disconnect all wiring attached to the engine: ingnition system leads, temp leads, oil pressure leads, battery cables, etc.
-optional: remove the distributor from the engine (good move if this is your first time pulling an engine
-remove the fan, fan belts and water pump pulley, leave the crank pulley in place for now, disconnect power steering hoses if you have power steering, leave the pump on the engine for now
-if a manual transmission, support the engine at the rear and remove the transmission
-if automatic, support the transmission and rear of the engine and with the trans dust cover removed, remove the flexplate-to-converter bolts then remove the bolts at the bellhousing
-remove the air cleaner, cover the carb with some shop rags
-using a STOUT chain, attach the chain to either intake or exhaust manifold bolts at opposite corners
-attach the hook of a quality engine hoist to the middle of the chain between the bolts
-loosen the motor mount bolts (remove the nuts)
-with the hoist, lift the engine enough to lessen the weight on the motor mounts and remove the motor mount bolts
-slowly raise the motor out adjusting the position of the hoist to avoid banging the engine into the firewall and radiator support
-GO SLOW! until the engine is high enough to clear the radiator support then roll the hoist away from the car, remove the manual trans bell housing if necessary, mount the engine on a quality engine stand and set it back on the ground. DONE!
I live near Lincoln, let me know if I can help you further. I do own an engine hoist if you do not have one.
All really good info....
If you remove the distributor: take the cap off & mark the position of the rotor. Mark the distributor base to the intake. This will aid installation later.
If you are going to paint things, I suggest turning the engine until #1 piston is at TDC (top dead center) so you don't need to worry as much about lining up marks later (refer to shop manual).
Label and tag things as you take them off - it will help later (I put the bolts and such in little plastic bags or plastic containers). Taking pictures is also a cool way to help the reassembly and the ability to "look back" on the accomplishment is cool months/years later.
I also drink a beer between steps (takes a lot longer for me to complete the job for some reason)
Ron Cook TC Gold Member #1276
1969 300 Deluxe HTSS39669 300 Deluxe325HP L3569memorylane 1971 Malibu 2DR HT "Never let fear and good judgement hold you back!"
[This message has been edited by Bow_Tied (edited 09-24-2001).]
When dealing with the trans, I usually pull the manual out, but pull the automatic with the engine. Makes for less hassle without having to pull the bellhousing bolts and the flexplate to torque converter bolts. Anyway, don't forget to block the rear wheels and pull the driveshaft!
Also, ditto on the putting nuts and bolts in bags with labels on them. Also, for things like alternator bolts and such, if it has a washer/bracket setup, and you're afraid you won't remember how it goes, or how to piece it back together, drawing a diagram never hurts!
Proud owner of a 66 Malibu -
355, four speed, 3.08 pegleg
14.94 @ 93.75 (Needs work, I know)
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