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Worked fine. Removed wheel and loosened turn signal switch so I could route wires through the steering column. Re-assembled. Turn signals, flasher and key buzzer work. Horn doesn’t. Removed wire with the spring on one end and pushed a test/jumper wire down into its housing. Touched the other end to the steering shaft. No horn. What else can I check before (wishful thinking) and then after I remove the locking plate again? Thanks
 

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Did you reinstall the cancel cam (with the horn ring)?

EDIT... What wires? What year car? :)
 
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1968 Malibu sport coupe, 489 ci. 590 hp 600 tq, RV T-400 Freakshow 3200 stall, 3.73 12 bolt posi
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Not getting a good ground maybe?
 

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Worked fine. Removed wheel and loosened turn signal switch so I could route wires through the steering column. Re-assembled. Turn signals, flasher and key buzzer work. Horn doesn’t. Removed wire with the spring on one end and pushed a test/jumper wire down into its housing. Touched the other end to the steering shaft. No horn. What else can I check before (wishful thinking) and then after I remove the locking plate again? Thanks
Test the horn at the relay, and test the horn itself. Don't fight the horn button if the problem has a chance of being under the hood. Is the strap on the rag joint intact?
 

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Look at the flat connector on the column with the turn signal wires and horn wire in it and make sure it's fully seated and no wire or connector got pulled out or pushed out.

Also try rotating the wheel back and forth as some times the brass ring on the one assembly may have corrosion in one spot and it's not able to complete a connection. I've had horns not work when the wheel is straight but turning it one way or the other, I can get the horn to work and then in another spot have it not work. This is why I try and remember to clean the contact ring before reinstalling it and if you have to take it apart, see how yours looks.

If that checks out, you have to wonder if it's something you did or a coincidence and first double check your work and then still if nothing, find the horn wire on the column connector and ground it and the horn should work if from everywhere forward of that point is good. If it doesn't work doing that test, then something else is wrong and it's not all in the column.

Jim
 

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1971 Chevrolet Chevelle Malibu
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On the turn signal switch there should be another spring loaded copper color pin that comes up and makes the contact with the ring on the cancelling cam. Go to your other thread "Steering Wheel Question" post #14 you can see the pin in your first picture towards the upper right corner. There has to be a wire that runs to the back of the switch that goes to the metal part that holds that copper pin in. That wire could have broke or the pin is stuck down for some reason. If anyone might know the color of the wire that runs to the copper pin you could go down to where the connector is for all the turn signal wires ground that wire out and if the horn works you know it's in the area I just talked about.
 

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Just adding to what Jim Streib said in post #5....

I have had similar intermittent horn operation due to GMs less-than-great horn switch. Very prone to high resistance in the contact mechanism.

I solved the problem by fitting a solid state relay. A SSR will operate with very low current input, where a conventional relay [ horn relay ] might not energise because of insufficient current, caused by the high resistance connection in the switch.
 
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