[redrocket1953]

I'm working on a friends 64 that I'm trying to get running for him as health wise he doesn't have long to go and he'd like to drive it some. The positive battery cable is junk and I'm building a new one as I have the heavy cable and connections. My question is on the wire that goes to the horn relay. From the positive clamp it is red and then it changes to a crimped on black wire that hooks to the relay. I know that the black is probably a fusible link. I think the red wire is a 10 gauge and that the black fusible link should be a 14 gauge wire but I'm not sure and he has no wiring diagram. What I need to verify is if it's that gauge wire and if the fusible link wire has to be a certain length as I can get a 6" link at NAPA. I enclosed some photo's of the cable and wire. Thanks for any help.

 

[japete92]

Attached is a screen shot from the full size 1964 Chevy Shop Manual.

It does not show a 'fusible link'; only a 12 g black wire. I do not know if the Chevelle is different, but the full size Chevy does not have, nor require one for proper operation.

Pete

 

[GTO44]

If you’re not going numbers matching... just run the 10gauge to a small 30amp breaker than out of it with another small piece of 10gauge to the horn relay. It doesnt need to be a fusible link. Just any cheapo 30amp breaker from a parts store: https://www.autozone.com/starting-c...FhJqi8BPcQq49m_q0qhoCoJYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[redrocket1953]

Attached is a screen shot from the full size 1964 Chevy Shop Manual.

It does not show a 'fusible link'; only a 12 g black wire. I do not know if the Chevelle is different, but the full size Chevy does not have, nor require one for proper operation.
View attachment 707676
Pete

Thanks Pete. Being the black wire looks original and the battery cable and pigtail doesn't someone probably put a new cable with a red pigtail and spliced it into the original black wire. I just thought there was a link in the connection. On my 70 I think there is. I think I'll just run some black 10 gauge wire I have here and see what happens. Could do the inline fuse deal as suggested too.

 

[japete92]

A fuse in the circuit? GM did not use them and I don't know what 'time delay' would be applicable (the basis for your 'gauge' question for the fusible link).

Also, IF you want to consider an alternative to making up your our battery cable, here's a link to a vender who will custom make one for you:

2 Gauge Battery Cables - Custom Made 2 AWG Battery Cables

www.batterycablesusa.com

They will supply a cable to your specs. VERY reasonable pricing, a 6' long 2 gauge cable with connectors is about $25 (depending on specs/options). They will add what ever wiring you specify to the horn relay. You'll have to call them if what you want is not in their 'menu'.

I highly recommend the 2 gauge over the OEM 6 (for BOTH + and - cables). 2 gauge provides less resistance (especially useful went things get hot under the hood).

Pete

 

[redrocket1953]

A fuse in the circuit? GM did not use them and I don't know what 'time delay' would be applicable (the basis for your 'gauge' question for the fusible link).

Also, IF you want to consider an alternative to making up your our battery cable, here's a link to a vender who will custom make one for you:

2 Gauge Battery Cables - Custom Made 2 AWG Battery Cables

www.batterycablesusa.com

They will supply a cable to your specs. VERY reasonable pricing, a 6' long 2 gauge cable with connectors is about $25 (depending on specs/options). They will add what ever wiring you specify to the horn relay. You'll have to call them if what you want is not in their 'menu'.

I highly recommend the 2 gauge over the OEM 6 (for BOTH + and - cables). 2 gauge provides less resistance (especially useful went things get hot under the hood).

Pete

Pete I have 2 gauge cable from them. It seems like very good quality cable. Actually I was surprised with the quality. I have enough for the + and the - cables. I also got battery terminals and lugs from them. His engine has weird starting issues only once in awhile. New battery , solenoid, starter, flexplate, and it would still struggle at times to turn over. Hot or cold didn't matter. It would almost sound like a detonation knock when it was turning over. Something in over 55 years of working on Chevy's I never experienced before. It has a 300HP 327 in it and everything is original. Everything works great when its running. Less than 50K original miles. I took the heads off thinking that maybe it had carbon buildup on the pistons and valves but it was really pretty clean inside. He only runs 91 octane pure gas, no ethanol fuel. I'm gonna solder up the new cables tomorrow and see if that helps. Thanks again.

 

[DUTCH MAX HEADWORK]

Chevrolet did not install fusible links in a 64. I can't tell you what you have there, but you should replace it with a fusible link sized to protect the 12 gauge circuit it is feeding that runs into the cab. The fusible link should be 4 numbers or 2 wire gauges smaller than the circuit it protects. So a 16 gauge fusible link would meet that spec. This is cheap safety that should be retrofitted into all pre 67 cars without fusible links.

Additionally, it's a good idea to install one from the battery to the junction block on the radiator support just in front of the battery.

Another place Chevrolet installed a fusible link was in the orange wire leading from the #3 terminal on the voltage regulator to the 4 way splice in the harness.

I would not run a fuse unless it was a Mega fuse.
I also would not run a circuit breaker in those positions.
The fusible link can withstand multiple over amp occurrences without failing and still protect the circuit.
Running standard fuses will result in nuisance fuse failures. The only fuse that can stand up to the abuse is the Mega fuse.

 

[oldcutlass]

You do not need a fusible link nor a CB there, just run a new wire when you change the cable. The wire you have is just an extension wire that someone used because it was too short.

 

[DUTCH MAX HEADWORK]

You do not need a fusible link nor a CB there, just run a new wire when you change the cable. The wire you have is just an extension wire that someone used because it was too short.

If you don't install a fusible link or current protection device, just make sure you have good insurance. A short in any of the wires I listed in the previous post will turn the wire red hot and burn through everything else in the harness and path to the battery from the short. Also possible to burn from the alternator to short. If you are lucky, the alt just goes up in a cloud of smoke.

 

[redrocket1953]

If you don't install a fusible link or current protection device, just make sure you have good insurance. A short in any of the wires I listed in the previous post will turn the wire red hot and burn through everything else in the harness and path to the battery from the short. Also possible to burn from the alternator to short. If you are lucky, the alt just goes up in a cloud of smoke.


View attachment 707707

 

[redrocket1953]

Thanks guys for all the information. I will run a new 12 gauge wire with a 16 gauge link on the horn relay end. There is a negative ground wire running off the battery post to the radiator support where it attaches along with a ground from the lights. Does that wire need a fusible link?

 

[oldcutlass]

Thanks guys for all the information. I will run a new 12 gauge wire with a 16 gauge link on the horn relay end. There is a negative ground wire running off the battery post to the radiator support where it attaches along with a ground from the lights. Does that wire need a fusible link?

No

 

[Hotwire]

Here's the 64 wiring diagram:

MWireChev64_3WD-084.jpg

drive.google.com

MWireChev64_3WD-085.jpg

drive.google.com

I would definitely run a fusible link to the horn junction from the battery. That wire feeds the cabin, all power for ignition, lights, etc runs through that 10 gauge.

If you have a decent brass brush, pull the wire harnesses off the firewall (under brake booster) where it runs into the back of the fuse box and clean the terminals. You can also use spray electronic contact cleaner. This will help with any resistance from dirty connections, lights will be brighter, less gremlins to chase down, etc.

 

[japete92]

Pete I have 2 gauge cable from them. It seems like very good quality cable. Actually I was surprised with the quality. I have enough for the + and the - cables. I also got battery terminals and lugs from them. His engine has weird starting issues only once in awhile. New battery , solenoid, starter, flexplate, and it would still struggle at times to turn over. Hot or cold didn't matter. It would almost sound like a detonation knock when it was turning over. Something in over 55 years of working on Chevy's I never experienced before. It has a 300HP 327 in it and everything is original. Everything works great when its running. Less than 50K original miles. I took the heads off thinking that maybe it had carbon buildup on the pistons and valves but it was really pretty clean inside. He only runs 91 octane pure gas, no ethanol fuel. I'm gonna solder up the new cables tomorrow and see if that helps. Thanks again.

If you haven't already, check the timing. If too advanced it may impede cranking (but usually only when hot).

Pete

 

[redrocket1953]

Here's the 64 wiring diagram:

MWireChev64_3WD-084.jpg

drive.google.com

MWireChev64_3WD-085.jpg

drive.google.com

I would definitely run a fusible link to the horn junction from the battery. That wire feeds the cabin, all power for ignition, lights, etc runs through that 10 gauge.

If you have a decent brass brush, pull the wire harnesses off the firewall (under brake booster) where it runs into the back of the fuse box and clean the terminals. You can also use spray electronic contact cleaner. This will help with any resistance from dirty connections, lights will be brighter, less gremlins to chase down, etc.

I'll do that as the hood is off and easier to get at. I have both the brass brush and contact cleaner. Would dielectric grease on the terminals help too?

 

[redrocket1953]

If you haven't already, check the timing. If too advanced it may impede cranking (but usually only when hot).

Pete

That's exactly what it sounds like. The timing is correct and it has new timing gears and chain. This engine runs perfect once its going. No ping or knock from ignition. It doesn't really have a pattern when it does it so its hard to figure out. It will do it both hot and cold. Only once in awhile. To me it seems as the starter isn't getting enough juice and it kind of kicks back. The battery cables are old and not very heavy gauge so hopefully the new 2 gauge cable helps with that.

 

[Hotwire]

I'll do that as the hood is off and easier to get at. I have both the brass brush and contact cleaner. Would dielectric grease on the terminals help too?

Don't think it would hurt but not necessary if you don't want to deal with it. Maybe enough to keep the contacts protected but not overly saturated to where it would run down the firewall? When I did mine, after cleaning, I used a dental pick to pull the contacts back into position so they'd make good contact when reinstalling harnesses, everything is working great.

 

[japete92]

If it does n

That's exactly what it sounds like. The timing is correct and it has new timing gears and chain. This engine runs perfect once its going. No ping or knock from ignition. It doesn't really have a pattern when it does it so its hard to figure out. It will do it both hot and cold. Only once in awhile. To me it seems as the starter isn't getting enough juice and it kind of kicks back. The battery cables are old and not very heavy gauge so hopefully the new 2 gauge cable helps with that.

If it does not, some 'new' part may be defective (battery, starter). Would not be the first time. I'm sure you know that.

 

[redrocket1953]

If it does n



If it does not, some 'new' part may be defective (battery, starter). Would not be the first time. I'm sure you know that.

The flexplate had a cracked ring gear so I thought that was bent and binding up when it got to a certain spot so put a new one on and the same thing. Original starter and solenoid replaced and the same problem still. Brand new battery that spins my 70 LS6 like a top and still the issue. Made sure that there was no paint on the starter or mounting pad on the block and checked and cleaned all the grounds. I'm running outta ideas that could cause it. It had 6 gauge battery cables so I'm hoping the 2 gauge does the trick. My experience with those "new" parts is it normally takes three before you get one that works or fits right.