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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 67 Chevelle and I just put a rebuilt tilt column in it the car is 4 spd and has the aftermarket rosewood wheel. I have a new horn relay and headlight harness as well as new dash harness and turn signal switch, cancel cam, contact spring and pin. The problem is that I have no fire coming into the car to feed the turn signal switch. I have it connected like the wiring diagram says and there is nothing going inside to the car. My turn signals work fine as do the 4 ways but no fire to the horn. Has any one had this problem before?? :confused:
 

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The horns work by grounding the horn wire to the center shaft through the horn button. It is not a 12 volt line. You should be able to work the horn relay by grounding the black wire under the hood. See if that works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yea, thats right. There is no power to the horn contact in the wheel hub. I can put a jumper wire from the relay to the horns and they will work but I can't get any power to the inside of the car. The black wire you are talking about is plugged into the relay on one side along with the double green wire coming from the horns on the other. There is a brown wire and a red wire that go under a screw on the right side of the relay according to my wiring diagram. There is also another male plug on the relay but if you plug anything into it,it makes a buzzing sound.
 

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Ok, by putting a jumper from the relay to the horns, you proved that the horns work. Next figure out if the horn relay is working. Put a jumper from the relay terminal where the black wire is tied to. Touch that wire to frame ground. The relay should close and the horn should honk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok I tried jumping it from where the black wire plugs into the relay and I got nothing. Does this mean the relay is bad? This is the 2nd relay that I have tried and the results are still the same.
 

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The relay terminal where the red lead goes to is positive. The terminal where the black lead goes to is negative. If you hook these 2 connections directly up to a battery, the relay will make an audible "click" sound. If yours doesn't do that, it's a bad relay. May also be bad because of damaged contacts but if it doesn't move, it doesn't work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I am a little confused on witch black wire you are talking about I have a female black wire that plugs into a male terminal on the relay and black wire with connector that fits under a screw head on the relay. There are two post with two screws put the peice of metal that they are on is one solid peice therefore no matter where I hook the wires on the relay it will be hot there.
 

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The black horn wire should be a thin wire that runs up the bundle that comes from the firewall.
 

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I've got a similar problem. Horns work direct to 12v. wiring to horn button checks out OK. So I bought a new horn relay. Now at least there's a "buzz". bUT NO HONK HONK.

67BB, I checked the wiring from the horn to the furewall nad then from the firewall connector to the little black conector on the relay to make sure it was OK. Using a VOM set on continuity rigged with a real long lead.
 
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