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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I get my nice new Hooker 2455's ceramics in yesterday, and installed them today. Passenger side went in w/o incident. Driver's side - whole 'nother story. Not only is the car jacked-up, I needed to also jack the motor up (but in all fairness needed to do that with my Hedman 2"ers). Got the header close to where it needs to be, but tube #1 is hitting the bosses for the rear motor mount on the block! Took the header out and "massaged" that tube - now it clears. But, now the #7 tube is up against the distribution block - and on it pretty hard. Took the header back out, worked on it a bit. Got it to clear, but its still just about against the d-block. I ended up getting a hacksaw behind the d-block and cutting the 2 "bosses" or raised areas off of it, that bought me a much needed 1/4". It will just mount flat against the frame now vs. an angle. Need to get a pan head screw b/c the cap screw head sticks out to far. Wasnt happy about smacking my new 365.00 headers. I cant believe hooker couldnt work around this. But to be fair, my heads have .300 raised ports, but it still would of been against the d-block.

Some guys move the d-block. Where did you put it? I have a z-bar to it couldnt of come up even if I wanted.
 

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Vince,

I just installed my new motor with the AFR heads. I did not have any issues with my 2455 Hooker headers other than the distribution block, which was an issue the first time around. I just placed it on top of the fram. They are ceramic coated from Jet Hot. However, due to the original installation, I painted them with High Heat Ceramic on top of the ceramic coating. They are just a dull silver now, and have a few scratches from this install, which I will touch up, that is what the paint was for.

But back to the fitment, they actually fit better now than the original install with the 292 oem heads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You know what, I just remembered, these heads were angle milled a bunch - that's what drove the header tube into the block.

Walt, did you cut and redo the brake lines when you moved the d-block?
 

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No, it just moved right on top of the frame. You have to be careful in that it will want to pinch off the line to the front brakes......don't ask me how I know. LOL....!
 

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You can use a prop valve like the one in the link below or the one in the pic which can be purchased from CPP. Give them a call and tell them what you're trying to do, and that you want to buy a prop valve and the lines that will allow you to mount it close to the master cylinder so you can get it away from the frame and from the heat of the headers. ofcourse you will then need to custom bend your front brake lines. but this is what i plan on doing. the pic is of a hydroboost set-up, but you can just buy the bracket, short lines, and the prop valve from them.

http://www.classicperform.com/Store/1947_59_Trucks/MCPVS4R.htm


 

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I ran into the same situation years ago with my GM 781 heads. The headers cleared the dist block by about a milimeter. I could have just dimpled the tube ever so slightly but I was lazy. I use solid motor mounts so the headers never showed signs of having made contact with the dist block do to engine movement. Also never had any problems.
 

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Vince, I had the very same issue with my Hookers. I've got Edelbrock heads and the ports should be in the stock location. See the thread below.
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Has anyone had to deal with a proportion valve getting too hot? I've got a set of Hooker supercomps with 2" primaries and the #7 tube is right against the valve. Installed A piece of carbon asbestos between the two. The brakes work fine and theres no indication of fluid boiling. But now I'm noticing a tacky-like substance starting to seep out of the lower port fitting. Wondering if I'm melting a seal or packing of some kind. Thinking about relocating the valve farther down the frame. Any info on this issue would certainly be appreciated.
__________________
 

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Waite till you see 6&8 spark plug boots and getting the spark plugs in and out at least mine were a hassle.
 

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Waite till you see 6&8 spark plug boots and getting the spark plugs in and out at least mine were a hassle.
Yep, I found that out. I will change to shorty plugs next time.

The driver's side was a dream, no issues at all.
 

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I can get at my spark plugs and boots with the spacer plate still takes special tools for the R&R though
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I ended up have to move the d-block up on top of the frame rail. Even though I clearanced that tube some, it was till to close to the d-block. What complicates this is that I have a Z-bar, so I had to push the d-block up high. What a hassle. But I just remembered that my ports are raised .300, that's what made the #1 tube hit the block, but tube #7 was gonna hit the d-block no matter what. What's up with that? plug access is excellent on driver's side, plugs 6&8 are gonna be a PIA. Going to have to change the plug ends to 90* boots and cut a socket up. Other than that, the headers are nice :sad:
 

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Vince, do you ever have anything go smoothly on this car?:eek:

I think a full frame off is in order to work out all the bugs once and for all!:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Vince, do you ever have anything go smoothly on this car?:eek:

I think a full frame off is in order to work out all the bugs once and for all!:D
Nope :angry:, but its really all my fault. When you change the combo, you really change the combo! I'm more pissed-off that I smacked my new 370.00 headers up.

I have thought about the frame-off....in a couple of years. I'll wait till my wife buys the convertible she has been talking about...then I'll have something to hold me over :D
 

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I have ran that header coated and plain for years, very close to dis. block 1/8 inch i am using dot 3 fluid and it has never boiled. Hope this helps.:)
 

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Vince Snap on and Comp tools have the shorty sp sockets I like the one from comp it comes with 2 different short lengths and are stackable and it works well with a combination wrench.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I have ran that header coated and plain for years, very close to dis. block 1/8 inch i am using dot 3 fluid and it has never boiled. Hope this helps.:)
This was actually up against it hard, even after I dented the headers. Probably a function of the raised ex port/angle milled heads.

Vince Snap on and Comp tools have the shorty sp sockets I like the one from comp it comes with 2 different short lengths and are stackable and it works well with a combination wrench.
Thanks Mike, I was looking for something like that.
 
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