[Tom Mobley]

>>>70101335-RHKR- 1-3/4" stainless long-tube headers

send those out to me, I'll beta test them for you no charge! All you have to pay is shipping!!! Whatta deal!!!

 

[jrs396]

Not sure how the moderators feel about that. If they are fine with it, no problem...

No worries...I found a site he's posting on.

 

[David Bates]

Probably the new log in. He is posting on other sites...

Could you please provide the other site names he posts on, I'm pretty sure I'm not the only one that would like to follow along

Not sure how the moderators feel about that. If they are fine with it, no problem...

No worries...I found a site he's posting on.

Why not post a link to the other forum thread(s). If the moderators take exception to it they will delete it.

 

[David Bates]

Bump

 

[David Bates]

Well, after some searching on forums I haven't visited for several years I found this: ---Hooker 1964-67 A-Body LS Swap---

 

[temartin]

I'm beginning work on my 67, and was thinking of putting in a 700R4. Do you know if it requires any tunnel modifications?

 

[Alwhite00]

I'm beginning work on my 67, and was thinking of putting in a 700R4. Do you know if it requires any tunnel modifications?

I put a 4l60E in my 67 with no tunnel mods. I did lower the mount. For the trans 1/2" and make sure you put the trans lines on before sliding it in. Don't ask me how I know. 😁

 

[echristie]

Does anyone know if Todd ever developed the a kit to cover the convertibles & El Camino's with their boxed frames?

 

[senna]

Does anyone know if Todd ever developed the a kit to cover the convertibles & El Camino's with their boxed frames?

Todd posted on LS1 tech this week that he has finished up on some other projects and plans on getting back on the cross member for the convertibles in the coming weeks.

 

[ChuckD396]

anyone with a 66-67 chevelle that has gone with LS engine, T-56, and the Holley engine mounts and crossover have info and/or pics of there tunnel cuts, mods, and repair??

 

[Jeff65SS]

anyone with a 66-67 chevelle that has gone with LS engine, T-56, and the Holley engine mounts and crossover have info and/or pics of there tunnel cuts, mods, and repair??

Link to my build..... with pictures.

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/56-pro-touring/941801-my-65-ls-swap-project-2.html

 

[NorCal-SS]

We’ll after years of sitting, I’m finally getting around to my swap. I’m wondering what engine angle folks have been able to achieve with this combo of parts. Best I can get is -2.8 deg on the engine before the headers are too close to the floor pan

Hooker forward mounts
Hooker long tube header

As many before me, I’m dealing with driveline angle issues caused by a long transmission (T56 Magnum) and lowered suspension. The tunnel is already cut but I’m limited on how high I can raise the tailshaft by the header collectors. I. Hoping I do t need to buy a 9” for the lower pinion and a CV driveshaft… any other options here?

thanks

 

[Jeff65SS]

I couldn't get an acceptale forward u-joint angle so I ended up with getting a driveshaft with a CV joint for the tailshaft end. Think these accept 7 degrees of angle. Best I could get was 4 degrees before the joint was nearly into the floor bracing between the front seats.

 

[Alwhite00]

We’ll after years of sitting, I’m finally getting around to my swap. I’m wondering what engine angle folks have been able to achieve with this combo of parts. Best I can get is -2.8 deg on the engine before the headers are too close to the floor pan

Hooker forward mounts
Hooker long tube header

As many before me, I’m dealing with driveline angle issues caused by a long transmission (T56 Magnum) and lowered suspension. The tunnel is already cut but I’m limited on how high I can raise the tailshaft by the header collectors. I. Hoping I do t need to buy a 9” for the lower pinion and a CV driveshaft… any other options here?

thanks

I ended up with both. The 9" gains you about 3/4" IIRC. I didn't want to raise my car. You are either going to have to chop the floor or get a CV driveshaft.

 

[rpol78]

I believe 3* is the factory driveline angle so if you're able to get to 2.8* you should be ok on the engine transmission angle. With the car lowered mine gets tight at the back of the tunnel which limits rear end travel. Which then it gets into what diameter driveshaft are you going to run. The 3/4" a Ford 9" gives on the pinion would definitely help. My car is not together but I have played with this a bit. I have a T56 magnum and a 12 bolt. The 1350 yoke is tight at the brace between the seats. I could cut the brace and fab a reinforcement piece to gain 1/4" to 3/8" if I need to. If I remember correctly I'm between 3* and 3.5* down on the engine/tranny. The driveshaft looks like it's going to run pretty close to 0*, so I figured I could change the pinion angle to offset engine tranny angle. It's tight at the rear of the floor pan by the front of the rear seat. I believe I can get by with a smaller diameter drive shaft, so to handle the HP, the critical drive shaft speed, and be a small diameter, I'm looking at a QA1 carbon fiber driveshaft. They're only 3.2" in diameter. On my initial look at this it looks like it will work. I moved the rear up to the bump stops and it looks like it clears, not by a lot, but it does clear.

 

[pannetron]

I couldn't get an acceptale forward u-joint angle so I ended up with getting a driveshaft with a CV joint for the tailshaft end. Think these accept 7 degrees of angle. Best I could get was 4 degrees before the joint was nearly into the floor bracing between the front seats.

Same here. I did my swap before Holley parts were available and I ended up with 5.5* engine angle with 0* driveshaft angle back to the 9" so opted for a CV driveshaft.

 

[NorCal-SS]

Appreciate all the replies. Sounds like every build has its own challenges and mine is no exception, eh? I’m actually doing ok with the -2.8 on the transmission but the center floor brace will need to be raised. I’m not opposed to a CV shaft, but I’m really hoping to avoid buying a 9” rear because my 12 bolt was recently completely overhauled. Plus it already has the coil over brackets welded on. Switching rear at this point would be a real, well pain in the rear.

one other challenge is I don’t actually have the driveshaft yet. Measuring and ordering one is next, but with all the unknowns on the rest of the setup I want to be sure what hardware combo I’ll end up with. Don’t want to have to order an expensive driveshaft twice if I can avoid it.
Im starting to think my best bet would be to raise the entire length of the tunnel up (maybe go for the speedtech tunnel) and plan on a CV shaft. Sorry for the rambling. Maybe I should’ve started a new thread. Thanks all

 

[rpol78]

If you raise the entire tunnel then you get into the rear seat frame (assuming you're going to run a back seat). I used a cardboard tube to simulate the driveshaft.

 

[NorCal-SS]

Ah, thanks. I was wondering about the back seat. The pics on speedtechs site show 2 buckets in the back and I assumed this was because of the extended tall tunnel. We’ll dang

 

[Alwhite00]

With the 2.8 down at your current ride height where is your pinion height compared to the output shaft. You may be ok without raising the drivetrain just using the CV shaft.