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Just saw this while surfing the internet. Thought this would get alot of opinions. 1gal. Acetone, 1gal. Xylene, 1qt. high quality Synthetic 2 cycle motor oil. Add 3oz. to 10 gallons of gas. Did not say how many points it would raise.:confused:
 

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Hmmmmm, maybe we could mix some up, try it in a F#%& and see if it blows up!
 

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I have heard of THIS formula......

How to make your own octane booster (this is the basic formula of one of the popular octane booster products). To make eight 16 ounce bottles (128 oz = 1 gal):

100 oz of toluene for octane boost
25 oz of mineral spirits (cleaning agent)
3 oz of transmission fluid (lubricating agent)
 

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Just saw this while surfing the internet. Thought this would get alot of opinions. 1gal. Acetone, 1gal. Xylene, 1qt. high quality Synthetic 2 cycle motor oil. Add 3oz. to 10 gallons of gas. Did not say how many points it would raise.:confused:

1 gallon of Xylene,R+M/2.........117 octane
1qt. high quality Synthetic 2 cycle motor oil.(no effective octane boost its a lubricant)

theres 128 oz in a gallon so 3oz of the mix added to 10 gallons of 92 octane gas boosts your octane to,.......wait for it.....92.06 octane THATS IF the lube oil didn,t reduce the effective octane which its very likely to do

http://www.wallaceracing.com/octane-mix-calc.php

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=613&p=816#p816
 

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Oils do reduce the Octane rating, I was told to run a tick rich on the oil in my 2 cycle equipment by burning up plugs. Found out later it was because I was running rich on oil I was burning up the plugs. That was from the engine guy who has only been doing it since he started doing this stuff in the early 70s.
 

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1 gallon of Xylene,R+M/2.........117 octane
1qt. high quality Synthetic 2 cycle motor oil.(no effective octane boost its a lubricant)

theres 128 oz in a gallon so 3oz of the mix added to 10 gallons of 92 octane gas boosts your octane to,.......wait for it.....92.06 octane THATS IF the lube oil didn,t reduce the effective octane which its very likely to do

http://www.wallaceracing.com/octane-mix-calc.php

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=613&p=816#p816
What about the acetone?
 

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First off, people are trying like hell to keep oil out of combustion chambers. Two stroke oil is for two strokes.

Acetone is a gasoline detergent. It breaks up the surface tension of gas the way washing detergents break up the surface tension of water. It will help make a finer atomization as the gas passes through the carb. 1 ounce per gallon is all you need.

Xylene or toluene will raise octane, but to the best of my knowledge, I don't think it has as much heat value as gasoline. So, unless you are adding compression at the same time, it probably won't help much.

Take a look at what F1 does with low octane no lead. Then think about this: 87 octane burns faster than higher octane gas. That means burning low octane gas needs less spark lead so it makes less negative power. With extended reach plugs and low octane, you can cut about 5 degrees out of the timing advance, and make more power.

A well designed two stroke seldom needs over 20 degrees TOTAL advance. If you have ever ridden a works built 390 Husky, you know how well 20 degrees or less timing can work. (They made about 55 HP. About 2.3 per CI.)



If you are going to try your own fuel mixes, I advise you to get something like a 250 cc, single cylinder street bike and put the magic brews in that first. Pick something that allows the head to be removed easily. Then get a hand full of jets and needles and have at it. The first thing you may learn is some of the mixes you come across will be hard to light. Others will not accelerate well, and still more will run hot, bog, blubber, backfire. Then, just as you will have to do if you put them in your engine, you will have to start changing jets.

The point of all of this is you will be hard pressed to mix something yourself that will be better than something you can buy from a fuel dealer. He has the hydrometers for assuring consistency in what he mixes, and a reputation to uphold to stay in business.

Keep a fire extinguisher and garden hose handy. Keep the hose water turned on.
 

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Excellent, kirkwoodken.
 

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The voice of experience can never speak loudly enough.

I can't vocalize on how much I have enjoyed and learned from Darin Morgan's posts on SpeedTalk and his various written articles. It's damn hard to come up with an idea that DM hasn't already tried. The man has a passion for learning that I wish could be taught, but is seldom realized. Humans seem to be innately equipped with a curious nature, and I do not want to stifle the initial poster's interest in various fuels. But, in order for his quest to be fruitful, he must be aware that all may not go easily, unless he views EVERY experience as a learning experience. "Failure" is always a learning experience. People we admire, like Smokey, Darin, and other heroes, have had gobs of "failures", which simply means they have learned a lot. I personally do not care for the word "failure". It has no good usage. Trial, error, mistake, misjudgment: those are better words.

So for the OP: mix small batches. Don't put them in anything you don't want to ruin. Remember, if you add oil, you are leaning the mixture, so you have to add jet size accordingly. And, if you add oil, you change the viscosity of the fuel, so you need even more jet. Don't smoke while you're mixing!!!!

Only "Vaporized fuel" burns. If you don't have enough compression heat to vaporize fuel, it won't burn, but will be expelled as unburned hydrocarbons. Very little fuel is vaporized in the carb. Most is vaporized on the compression stroke by the heat of compression. When you consider the short amount of time involved in the compression stroke, it's a wonder IC engines run at all. This is why Top Fuel engines need huge blowers. To the best of my knowledge, the nitro load for each cylinder is about 35-40 cc's., around 1 1/3 ounces. It's not easy to boil that much fuel, but it won't burn until vaporized. So you need a gob of extra air so when it is compressed buy the piston, it makes enough heat to boil that much fuel. You push in extra air under pressure to raise the temperature of compression. All of that air does more than just add oxygen. The need for enough space for fuel and air is why hemi heads work for nitro. That style chamber "works" for large quantities of fuel. The next thing with nitro is it burns slow, compared to gasoline. I don't know about today, but it was typical for the guys I knew years ago to run about 55 degrees spark lead with fuel. At 55 degrees BTC, not much compression has taken place. Another reason why lots of blower pressure is needed.

When you see a simplified explanation of a 4 stroke engine; intake, compression, combustion, and exhaust, it doesn't give any idea of the complexity of the process. When you study the nitro burners, they are a lot more complicated than just tipping the can. The entire engine is built around the type of fuel being used, and finding ways to burn more of it.

Fuel is indeed a very interesting study.

Hope I didn't make too many mistakes. If so, feel free to correct. I'm still learning.
 

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Guy's,Here's a SAFER alternative (when handled correctly) to making you own home brew octane booster.

I have been using it for many yrs now in my bbc and also other peoples muscle cars i work on/maintain too with good results,it's what was in the fuel being mfg'd 40 yrs ago to increase octane lvl's.

But this home brew booster being talked about here could possbly result in engine damage someday if wrong mix ratio is run or maybe something worse when mixing it like a fire & getting burned etc.

So check this out.

Scott

=============================================================

KEMCO SUPREME 130 REAL LEAD OCTANE BOOSTER

(NOTE :KEMCO'S CONTACT INFO IS AT BOTTOM OF PAGE)

=============================================================
DATA/FACT SHEET
WHAT IS OCTANE SUPREME-130
A GENUINE TETRAETHYL LEAD (TEL) gasoline treatment / octane booster Since 1921, TEL has been the original additive
that (1) Boosts octane numbers, (2) Eliminates engine knock, and (3) Protects valves and valve guides. Only with TEL can you
expect the highest performance in these three crucial areas.
WHY IS OCTANE SUPREME-130 DIFFERENT FROM OTHER ADDITIVES ON THE MARKET?
Octane Supreme-130 contains a high level of genuine tetraethyl lead, 60 grams per gallon. Other manufacturer’s additives
contain lead substitutes, such as Ammonium Phosphates, Amine Phosphates, Manganese Compounds (MMT), Sodium, Sulfur
formulas, and others mystery blends. There are products that blend a trace of lead with other chemical substitutes, so they
advertise a lead product. Octane Supreme-130 is the only product with 100% TEL activant (NO SUBSTITUTES) for maximum
performance.
IS OCTANE SUPREME-130 SAFE FOR THE ENVIRONMENT?
By adding Lead Supreme-130 to your fuel, your engine will perform better by increasing horsepower and burning the fuel more
efficiently. Practically all the lead content is burned and deposited on the valves and valve seats, leaving the environment
virtually lead free. Due to EPA regulations this material is to be used off road only.
HIGHLIGHTS OF OCTANE SUPREME-130
• Contains REAL Tetraethyl Lead and other octane enhancing components (No substitute chemicals added)
• Boosts octane from 2–16 full points when added to fuel. Perfect for high compression engines to
eliminate engine knock and detonation.
• Protects and lubricates valves and valve guides.
• A superior gasoline treatment that really works as claimed
Manufactured By:
Kemco Industries
=====================================================
COMPRESSION RATIO CHART
Engine Octane Needed
Compression / Minimum Octane Required / # oz Kemco Required With 93 Base Fuel.

10.0 / 95 / .6
10:25 / 96 / .9
10:4 / 96.5 / 1.2
10:5 / 97 / 1.5
11:0 / 98 / 1.8
11.5 / 100 / 2.5
11:8 / 101 / 3.0
12.5 / 104 / 6.0
13:0 / 107 / 12.0
14;0 / 109 / 18.0

(Typical requirements-can vary widely depending on setup)

============================================================

TREAT RATES R+M/2 (93 Base fuel)
0.6- Ounces OS-130 to 1 gallon/fuel……….2.0 point octane increase
1.2- Ounces OS-130 to 1 gallon/fuel……….3.5 point octane increase
1.8- Ounces OS-130 to 1 gallon/fuel……… 5.0 point octane increase
2.4- Ounces OS-130 to 1 gallon/fuel……….6.5 point octane increase
3.0- Ounces OS-130 to 1 gallon/fuel…….…8.0 point octane increase
6.0- Ounces OS-130 to 1 gallon/fuel……..11.0 point octane increase
18- Ounces OS-130 to 1 gallon/fuel……..16.0 point octane increase
Octane increase is in full points. eg; 93 octane to 101 octane by adding 3 oz. / gallon fuel
===================================================================
1- 32 ounce bottle (Free Shipping)
$20.75

2 cases /24- 32 ounce bottles (Free Shipping/SAVE $30 with 2 case discount) $220.00

1 case /12-32 ounce bottles (Free Shipping) $125.00

===================================================================

Manufactured By:
Kemco Industries , LLC 1374 E. Main Lehi, Utah 84043 / Phone (801)768-4408 / [email protected] / www.kemcooil.com

http://www.kemcooil.com/index.php
================================================================

HERE'S MY EXP WITH KEMCO ALONG WITH A COUPLE OTHER PEOPLES EXP WITH KEMCO THAT ARE ALSO FROM TEAM CHEVELLE.

FYI,I RUN 1QT KEMCO TO APPROX 18-20 GALS 93 FUEL (FULL TANK/69 CHEVELLE) WHICH
IS APPROX 97-97.5 OCTANE. THAT'S ENOUGH OCTANE TO CURE MOST DETONATION ISSUES I HAVE ENCOUNTERED SO THAT MAY BE A GOOD PLACE TO START WHEN TRYING KEMCO 1ST TIME.

BUT IF YOU STILL GET DETONATION WITH THIS MIX THEN TRY ADDING AN ADDITONAL 10-12OZ KEMCO TO THE QT/32OZ KEMCO ALREADY IN THE 18-20 GALS 93 FUEL WHICH SHOULD STOP IT.

BUT IF THAT KEMCO MIX DOESNT STOP THE PING EITHER ITS NOT DETONATION YOUR HEARING OR YOU HAVE A LOT MORE COMPRESSION THEN YOU THOUGHT. IN THAT CASE YOU NEED TO MIX THE KEMCO FOR 100 OCTANE LVL OR MAYBE EVEN A LITTLE MORE. EVEN THAT OVER 100 OCTANE LVL MIX OF KEMCO IS STILL SIGNIFICANTLY CHEAPER (BY APPROX $1.50-$2 PER GAL) THEN RACE FUEL AT $6 -$7 PER GAL DEPENDING ON WHERE YOU LIVE AND TYPE/OCTANE LVL RACE FUEL AVAIL FOR YOU TO RUN.

I KEEP A FEW QTS KEMCO IN THE TRUNK OF MY CHEVELLE AND SIMPLE ADD IT TO THE TANK WHEN FILLING UP,ITS THAT SIMPLE.

SCOTT

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Chris Stanwyck
Team Member
chris Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Georgetown, Ontario
Posts: 996

Kemco's dynamite. Be careful handling it. Makes fuel smell like avgas.
With Kemco my borderline streetable compressioned bbc
& purs at full advance (big advantage) and allows me to hammer the throttle. Lucas couldn't do that. Not even close.
But, depending on your application, Lucas may do the trick.
__________________

chris

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Have used Kemco for 2 years now religiously for my 11.6/1 true compression 540.
I"ve raced/dynoed my car with 1 quart to about 10 gallons (94 octane base)....great results. Tried extra, didn't need it & can get away with less if I am not into her. I Always use some premium fuel conditioner as well whether I need it or not..
It's great for borderline cars.......easy to carry extra in the car...cottage and back regulary...bring rubber gloves.....cooling air/fuel helps....aluminum heads are very helpful ...cam size?....equal quench?...pistons coated?....there are variables to be sure.
 

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Compare the cost of the ingredients (and octane ratings) of the homemade octane boosters to race gas.

What does a gallon of xylene and toluene retail for?
What does 116 race gas sell for?

Does the minimal price difference between Home Depot 114-117 octane additive and the real stuff justify the experiment?
 
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