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2000 Trans Am WS6
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
OK...rather than waste a bunch of 2 finger keyboard pecking, I will TRY to abbreviate this thread, as much as possible.

Car: 1971 Chevelle SS, 439ci BBC, Turbo 400, 3.90 12 bolt rear. Street/Strip Toy, that's been [email protected] with 4.10 gears, and a looser converter....

Have had a Fitech GO-EFI4 setup on my car since December 15, 2015.

Car was running great, but after 10 months of experiencing, and seeing others deal with Fitech horrible service, and very inconsistent tech advice, I myself, had had enough....As for the Fitech...it's been sold....

I like the look, and added features of the HOLLEY SNIPER setup. My hope is also that should any tech help be needed, they'll better handle it, since that is/was the general consensus when Googling around about Holley technical support.

ANYWAY...Install was a breeze, since I already had the O2 bung in place, the fuel system done, and a good bit of the wiring could be retrofitted to the new setup...

Some PROS & CONS I will share...

PRO's:
Wideband O2 sensor harness is longer, allowing easier connection and routing
Comes VERY complete...throttle cable bracket, kickdown bracket, base plate studs & nuts, heat shrink type connectors, and pretty decent instructions as well...
PLENTY of wire to hook up ANY engine
Seems to LEARN much faster than the Fitech did.
The handheld is MUCH easier to Navigate. It comes with a stylus, but I found it works just fine with my fat sausage fingers, LOL...
Can control nitrous activation and delayed activation, ignition timing, AC idle, etc.

CON's:
Have yet to see any info on how to datalog, or more importantly, how to view a datalog, once you do one??? (Not sure if that's part of the software that's coming, or not?)
Can't use my $75 throttle cable bracket, as linkage is out farther than a carb, or the Fitech was.
Handheld is hardwired to the cable (I'd rather it unplug, but maybe it's just different, and I'm used to the old one?)
Both the COOLANT and WIDEBAND sensors are different (no biggie for anyone doing a 1st time install, but it sucked knowing I have a spare O2 sensor, that is now worthless...Hopefully, Holley will share the BOSCH PART #.... ;)
Maybe not a "con", but the handheld is almost "too busy"...there's no way you can drive and see what is going on, with just a quick glance...I'm sure it'll get easier with some drive time...Like I said, not really a "con", but worth mentioning...
Handheld's "cradle" kinda sucks...It's like an EZ Pass cradle. I really liked my Fitech's suction cup mount, and actually used it for my test drive...

and that's about it...well, except for I did not get that cool looking sticker in the box...Kinda bummed about that. :(



INITIAL IMPRESSIONS:
It is BADA$$...:grin2: It starts INSTANTLY, but you MUST let it do it's PRIME CYCLE.
Accelerator pedal is almost a bit too sensitive...I found after an hour or so of driving, it was much better....might have just been since it was not really "learning" yet...
Car idles better than ever, with only an hour's learning.
Car runs phenomenal...It always ran real well with the Fitech, and did so up until I removed it, BUT...it was sometimes "not 100%", if that makes sense? In other words, it may scream one time through the gears, then almost hold back a little the next time, but no rhyme or reason, and very intermittent...
Every time I went WOT, it was 100%...or more, ;) Obviously, way too early to say it's just a fluke, or whatever...but we shall see.

Here's a COLD FIRST START:
(battery should have been charged, but you get the point)
https://youtu.be/4fVmCW8Svpo

Here's a HOT START: (after a 5 minute gas stop)
https://youtu.be/_AcJBo_v6t0

Here's plenty of pics, coming up:

From car on the lift, Fitech on the car, ready to start, to lights out, time to go home...in this series, lol.
 

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2000 Trans Am WS6
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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Out of the box HOLLEY, some side by sides, O2 harness differences, and the Holley on the intake...then the fun begins...wiring...

Sorry, but I wasn't about to try snapping pics while doing the wiring...I was in my zone. ;)
 

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2000 Trans Am WS6
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Discussion Starter #3
Some shots of the handheld screen, powered up

Existing fuel lines re-used with no mods

Main harness, tucked down near the MSD box
 

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Discussion Starter #4
2 more handheld screens, when running, and some stuff stuck to my tires after test drive...not sure what it is, or what happened there??? 0:)
 

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2000 Trans Am WS6
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Discussion Starter #6
how many cfm's is the Holley rated to? It would seem the FiTech should flow more.

Do they offer a 8 injector unit?

Have you been able to see your duty cycle with the Sniper?

Do they offer it in hardcore grey?
800cfm, and has FOUR 100# injectors, instead of four 80#ers...they say good to 650hp.

They have not released their 8 injector system yet.

They have the "shiny", like I got, and the Black Ceramic...

https://www.holley.com/products/fue...sniper_efi/sniper_4bbl_tbi_kits/parts/550-511

Also, the "standard" unit that I have, can control timing, as well as nitrous activation, delay, etc......
I believe it also said it will be able to handle boost, and a 2 step, with the software, once available, but don't quote me on that.

edit, duty cycle % was very low at cruise....didn't/couldn't see at wot, until I figure out how to datalog.
 

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Bob, thanks for the info. A tbi injection is on my radar, the poor after sale help from fitch took them off my list. I will be following this thread closely. Thinking out loud,I am considering using the holley frame mounted pump. Could I use the Corvette fuel filter/pressure regulator & run it without a return line?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Bob, thanks for the info. A tbi injection is on my radar, the poor after sale help from fitch took them off my list. I will be following this thread closely. Thinking out loud,I am considering using the holley frame mounted pump. Could I use the Corvette fuel filter/pressure regulator & run it without a return line?
Gary, I would "think" you could, but hopefully the Holley guys will chime in...
 

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2 more handheld screens, when running, and some stuff stuck to my tires after test drive...not sure what it is, or what happened there??? 0:)
So was this a bolt on and go affair? An AFR reading of 13.8 kinda hints at that. I really don't know how you ever got your FiTech to run at an AFR of 16. My car backfired and blew flames out of the throttle body when blipping the throttle at an AFR of 15.

Anyway, looks like you are having fun. Sticky stuff = fun

The throttle linkage shoulda been silver like the body.

What's with the slot in the rear throttle linkage? Fronts and rears are linked 1:1 right? Almost looks like a mechanical secondary carb. Might just be my eyes playing tricks on me.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
So was this a bolt on and go affair? An AFR reading of 13.8 kinda hints at that. I really don't know how you ever got your FiTech to run at an AFR of 16. My car backfired and blew flames out of the throttle body when blipping the throttle at an AFR of 15.

Anyway, looks like you are having fun. Sticky stuff = fun
Steve, if it ain't fun, I ain't doing it anymore. :thumbsup:

Since I had the fuel system, wideband O2 bung, and coolant sensor bung all already there, yes, it was about as close to "Bolt On & Go", as it could be...I only entered the basics (cubic inch, 8 cylinder, idle rpm, cd ignition, and 1 more, I think?...and have done ZERO tuning/tweaking. Default is 13.6 IDLE, 14.0 CRUISE, and 12.5 WOT. It interpolates between the 3.

Just one wire different, so instead of "splicing" into the tach feed wire, the tach output from MSD goes to the harness, and then one wire goes from Harness 2, to the actual tachometer, and Oh wait..., I had to cut the air cleaner stud...LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The throttle linkage shoulda been silver like the body.

What's with the slot in the rear throttle linkage? Fronts and rears are linked 1:1 right? Almost looks like a mechanical secondary carb. Might just be my eyes playing tricks on me.
Yeah, shiny would have looked better, but it's all but invisible with air cleaner on.

I believe they are 1:1, although I did not verify that.

But you're right, linkage looks like on one of their carbs, which is fine with me. I never cared for the link on the Fitechs. I never had a problem, but it looked like it was too much slop in the end links, if that makes sense?
 

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Thanks for the info on the connectors. That would slow down a quick swap. Stay out of trouble with that arrest me Red car. Nice ride Bob
 
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Yeah, shiny would have looked better, but it's all but invisible with air cleaner on.

I believe they are 1:1, although I did not verify that.

But you're right, linkage looks like on one of their carbs, which is fine with me. I never cared for the link on the Fitechs. I never had a problem, but it looked like it was too much slop in the end links, if that makes sense?
I think it would have to be 1:1. Otherwise, Holley must have done some very interesting and difficult fuel mapping to accommodate a delayed secondary throttle opening. I'm sure I'm over thinking it with the one brain cell I have remaining.

Thanks again for the updates
 
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Steve, if it ain't fun, I ain't doing it anymore. :thumbsup:

Since I had the fuel system, wideband O2 bung, and coolant sensor bung all already there, yes, it was about as close to "Bolt On & Go", as it could be...I only entered the basics (cubic inch, 8 cylinder, idle rpm, cd ignition, and 1 more, I think?...and have done ZERO tuning/tweaking. Default is 13.6 IDLE, 14.0 CRUISE, and 12.5 WOT. It interpolates between the 3.

Just one wire different, so instead of "splicing" into the tach feed wire, the tach output from MSD goes to the harness, and then one wire goes from Harness 2, to the actual tachometer, and Oh wait..., I had to cut the air cleaner stud...LOL.
I really did not like working with those 1 hair thickness wires on the FiTech to get the tach signal. I like the direct connect to the MSD. Did Holley use some standard gauge wire there to go to the tach, like 14?
 

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"I really don't know how you ever got your FiTech to run at an AFR of 16. My car backfired and blew flames out of the throttle body when blipping the throttle at an AFR of 15. "

My car is at 14.5:1 now and have been 15.5 with no issues.
This is on an engine with 7" of vacuum.
I guess some of us got good units and some not so good.

Good to hear it's working fine for you Bob.
Keep us updated.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Bob, is that your fuel pump in the 2nd video before you started it ?
Yessir. It runs for 5 seconds, primes after 2.5 seconds, I believe it is.
Fow whatever reason, it sounds loud in the video, and not that loud in person?

I did notice one thing...The Fitech would usually fire right up, when warm, without letting it prime...

The Holley today, didn't want to start right, when I tried that...I then let it prime, and it fired right up and idled fine...Another little difference between the two.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I really did not like working with those 1 hair thickness wires on the FiTech to get the tach signal. I like the direct connect to the MSD. Did Holley use some standard gauge wire there to go to the tach, like 14?
Yes they do.
The fuel pump power wire is also larger than Fitech's...and the battery full time 12 volt wire is 10 gauge, not 12 or 14. I also like the fact that the fuse & relay are external...and easily serviceable. Hard to see in the pictures, they are mounted just forward of the MSD box. The harness connectors are also very sturdy compared to the Fitech.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Are you still using the LS filter/regulator on it?
No. I never used that.

I have a TanksInc setup with a Walbro 255lph intank pump.
Used my stock 3/8" steel tube for feed and -6 Russell EFI hose for return.

Since my buddy still owes me some cash for the Fitech, but he has a brand new nitrous kit, I just may accept it as partial payment... ;)

Since it is a Sniper nitrous kit, it's a sign from above....lol.

Then I'd need a 340 or 400lph pump...
 
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