Team Chevelle banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part JULY's Ride of the Month Challenge!
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am in the process of converting over from stock to HID custom lights. The lights are HIDs from XENONHIDS.com. it seems to be a plug and play until you get to the problem with the high beam. I had to purchase two separate kits one for the low beam and one for the high beam. I can get the low beam to work with no issues, and they are BRIGHT. However, the problem comes when I engage the high beams, I only get the two inboard lights to work as the two outer light turn off.


The problem seems to be that both lights run on two different circuits with the new wiring harness. there is no jumper available to make contact with all 4 headlights when the bright lights are engaged. I have been working this issue for three days and I am no where closer to figuring the problem.


thoughts?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,206 Posts
The outer headlights need to be dual filament. Low and high beam. A jumper connects the high beam inner bulbs with the high beam filament of the outer bulb. This is why the outer bulb has a three terminal plug.
There are ways around this problem in which you need to contact the number mentioned above for further electrical modifications.
 

·
Registered
1970 Chevelle, MJ 467, 600hp/600tq, Moser 12 bolt M22Z muncie
Joined
·
799 Posts
Jump the dimmer switch. That's all you need.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,206 Posts
Jump the dimmer switch. That's all you need.
No
All four headlights will be on whenever low or high beams are selected
 

·
Registered
1970 Chevelle, MJ 467, 600hp/600tq, Moser 12 bolt M22Z muncie
Joined
·
799 Posts
No
All four headlights will be on whenever low or high beams are selected
I run a combination of hella and cibie housings, single element in each of the four housings. To get all four headlamps to light when using the factory high beam switch(switched to high), I jumped the hot going to the high beam switch to the low beam side. That way no matter what the low beams are on. Has been working fine with no failures for the last 2 years.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks to all,

SS John,
that's what I have been thinking. But by jumping a hot wire from the high beams to the low beams, ...wouldn't that have all 4 lights on at all times?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,405 Posts
Use an isolation relay. High beams energize the relay, and that turns on low beams.
 

·
Registered
1970 Chevelle, MJ 467, 600hp/600tq, Moser 12 bolt M22Z muncie
Joined
·
799 Posts
thanks to all,

SS John,
that's what I have been thinking. But by jumping a hot wire from the high beams to the low beams, ...wouldn't that have all 4 lights on at all times?
Don't jump any hot wire in there, it has to be the hot wire from the headlamp switch. Mine is a 1970, so I'll use those wire colors in this example.
Btw, I have done a total install of an American auto wire classic update harness. Pretty sure they used the factory wire colors. I also run a pair of relays to control the lamps, using the power feeds for the headlamps to activate the relays.

Out of the fuse box there are three wires terminated to a common socket that connects to the factory dimmer switch.

They are yellow, tan, and light green.

Yellow is headlamp power feed FROM the headlamp switch.
Tan is power feed TO the low beams.
Light green is power feed TO the high beams.

The dimmer switch is a simple SPDT type, meaning it has three terminals that switch a common terminal(power from light switch)in between two independent, separate terminals(low beam OR high beam feeds), but not both at the same time. Therein lies the problem, how to get both high and low at the same time at the actual high beam switch.

Jump the yellow wire to the the tan wire, this ensures the low beams will be on regardless of dimmer switch position. The only time all four will be on will be when you select high beams at the dimmer switch. Hope this clears it up for you.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
SS John, thanks.
But this is what I am looking at .

1. At the floor dimmer switch I have three wires. Light green, light blue and brown.

2. At the headlights I have brown as low beam and light green as high beam and of course a black for ground.

3. At the headlight switch I see that the light blue wire powers the floor dimmer switch


I am not seeing tan nor yellow wire. I am pretty sure that the wires are stock.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Now, coming from the actual light switch, there is a brown wire used to power up the running lights, side markers, license plate and so on. is that the wire you think can power the low beams? and I can by pass the foot dimmer switch and only use it for high beams


thoughts?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,206 Posts
Ah.. Misunderstood which terminals you were jumping together. Good call.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks fellas. I really appreciate the help. I was stumped for a few days. although I knew it was something simple, I just could not get it.

thanks, love the lights
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,836 Posts
True projectors are DEEP and require core support modification. (but they are totally worth it) If you are going to run HID's do it correctly please.





 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,836 Posts
Notice the "CUT OFF" on the tarp in front, refactor housing wont give you that.

 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top