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HI I am new to team Chevelle thanks for having me. Does any one know anything about anti hop bars?

336 Views 14 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  RAIDER SS
I would like to know something about anti hop bars ? I bought a 1971 Chevelle about a year ago I drove it home
and could not go faster than 50 MPH it shook bad and I did not like the color and paint so I started stripping the car
and fixing things. But the Question I have is about anti hop bars Do anti hop bars cause a shake in the car at
high speeds? Do they work ? Also when I removed the shocks it seemed like the rear end would drop out of the car and did not want to let the it go. The car is in pieces right now and I will remove the frame and build the car from the frame up I am installing a Tremec TKX 5 speed I had the drive shaft shortened and balanced. I am also thinking I will need a adjustable upper control arm to dial everything in. So I am asking are these anti hop bars worth It?
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Welcome to Team Chevelle.
Going to suggest that you put your question in the heading Mechanical and in Brakes suspension and Steering for better results to your question.
Here you may get results but only from those greeting you to the Team!
Again welcome!
Casey
 

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Definitely not if they were installed by PO to cover up wheel hop. ( pumpkin bushings are likely toast) Save them for now, but don't use them just yet. Your ADJ uppers will allow you dial in the pinion angle at the right time. The no hops also change the instant center i believe. Nice fat anti-sway bar is a better deal if one isn't already installed.

EDIT: Oh shit, how rude! Thnx Casey I went right into help mode there ' WELCOME TO TEAM CHEVELLE!
 

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😎 Welcome! Chevelles, as they came from the factory (due to the four link suspension) didn't suffer from wheel hop. It was only when we put bigger tires on them (and raised the rear to get those big tires under the wheelwells) that we got wheel hop. I assume you'll put larger-than-factory wheels/tires on the car and that will more than likely cause hop.

There are tons of suspension pieces available from many companies, however some those parts are designed for road courses and others for drag racing. You need to tell us what your intended use is.

These parts get expensive real fast, so you don't want to be buying parts which are not designed for your intent.

P.S. Your no hop bars were not causing your 50 MPH shaking.
 

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No hop bars work very well. They change the geometry so the suspension separates under acceleration (anti-squat). This plants the tires hard and thus gives traction. Moser and other aftermarket diff companies raise the ears (upper control arm mounts) to do the same thing. So I say keep them and run them. By design these should not in any way cause a vibration or shake. Something is wrong.
 

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fellas, who knows how they were installed? I assume somethingis goofy with it, as yes, they should not.
 

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Yes, when you remove the rear shocks the rear end will fall down as far as the links will let it go.
I would suggest removing the rear no-hop bar and getting four adjustable rear control arms with Delrin lined, spherical bushings.
I have Spohn Delsphere upper and lower rear control arms on my 69 el Camino and they are fantastic. No rear stabilizer bar needed..If you get the Spohn make sure you get the Delsphere bushingsthere much bigger and more expensive. The other bushings are for racing and would wear out in no time with street use.

Once you have adjustable front and rear control arms, this gives you the ability to get a four wheel alignment. This makes a big difference on one of these old GM A bodys.
 

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First, you can have a rear anti-sway bar, or even a drag race bolt-on anti-roll bar with or without the no-hope bars, and the two pretty much have nothing to do with each other, (two different topics really). Secondly, no hop bars work pretty good for some guys with Chevelles running in the 13 second to perhaps mid 11 second quarter mile ET range, ( ie. about in the 400 to 600 HP range with a stock Chevelle vehicle weight). But once you start getting into the 700 HP or 10 second ET neighborhoods, Anti-hop bars will tend to be too much and hitting the rear tires too hard with excessive down force off the starting line, causing the rear tires to bounce back hard back up into the wheel wells, and causing tire spin after the initial "hit" off the starting line.
 

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But once you start getting into the 700 HP or 10 second ET neighborhoods, Anti-hop bars will tend to be too much and hitting the rear tires too hard with excessive down force off the starting line, causing the rear tires to bounce back hard back up into the wheel wells, and causing tire spin after the initial "hit" off the starting line.
What would be the cure for this senario ? I only ask because I may be in that category and was planning on the no hop bars along with ladders.

EDIT: Welcome to the Forum!
 

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What would be the cure for this senario ? I only ask because I may be in that category and was planning on the no hop bars along with ladders.

EDIT: Welcome to the Forum!
That depends on your power level and what type of quarter mile ET your vehicle combination has potential for. For instance, if your car is a Chevelle with the typical full weight of 3,700 or 3,800 lbs (curb weight) and you've built about 700 or even 800 HP under the hood, then installing mounting brackets for the rear lower control arms with multiple mounting holes would be a fix, ( I mean instead of using the no-hop bars). Another way would be to use the "Lift bars" like what UMI Performance sells or if you rather stay with the lower control arms you presently have, then you can go cheaper by just using their "relocation" brackets. They have bolt-in ones, but I would prefer their weld-in ones since they're more durable.

But a possible fix to that rear tire rebound effect, (especially if you have less than 600 HP under the hood of a GM A-body at close to factory weight) would be to use a quality pair of rear adjustable shocks with the compression settings turned up to full stiff, to counteract the rebound effect. That works with some cars, but not with others. Again, it depends on your power level.
 

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Short answer is that NO the no-hop bars are probably not that cause of your vibration.

Start looking for other issues, could be pinion angle, bad u-joints in the driveshaft, tire out of balance, etc.

No hop bars can work, I have them on my 69 and am very happy with them. There are probably a hundred different combinations that can work. If your pinion angle is not correct you will need the adjustable uppers.
 

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Short answer is that NO the no-hop bars are probably not that cause of your vibration.

Start looking for other issues, could be pinion angle, bad u-joints in the driveshaft, tire out of balance, etc.

No hop bars can work, I have them on my 69 and am very happy with them. There are probably a hundred different combinations that can work. If your pinion angle is not correct you will need the adjustable uppers.
I agree with Bob.
OP - you said you wanted to buy adjustable upper control arms, which means you don't have them, and if someone installed the no-hop brackets and they did not adjust the pinion angle with adjustable arms - then that is a likely cause of your vibration.
 
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