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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Do you agree with the instructions, they give on Randy's web site, even if you were using Richmond gear?

http://www.randysringandpinion.com/Content/HowTo/TechnicalInstructions/Yukon_Installation_Kit.pdf

I ordered a 0-60 in/lb beam style torque wrench today, so I could set the pre-load the proper way. What a dinky little tool that turned out to be.:D Kind off a cute litte wrench though, should be better then trying to figure it out with the 1 lb weight and 1' long rod hairbrain trick.:sad:
 

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not to highjack the thread, but the biggest problem is always "crushing" the crush sleeve-some of the kits supply a larger nut to help with the crush process-one problem i have encountered seems to be the large washers they supply to go behind the nut-it fits so tight, the nut can jam the washer into the threads on the pinion, giving a "false" since of it being tight-then you have to almost use a torch(been there) to cut the washer out and start over-i try and use the old orig washer(i think harder) or take a round file and bevel the inside of the washer front & back to help prevent getting jamed into the pinion threads-just something i have run into that may save you some headach down the road
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Also, one more ?. What is the best way to install the new pinion races? I'm just want everything on this install to go smooth. Don't wanna be in this thing again for a long time. Thank's for the help.

Dave.
 

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Dave, I would start with a .037 or .035. That is most common for the 12 bolt. I use a bearing driver to install the races, but I have to use a steel bar to get them started even most of the time. You can use a steel or brass bar to drive them all the way in if you want. I did it that way for years, but you have to clean the metal shavings out of the housing after you are done. Be sure that they are fully seated.
 
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