[72silverchevelle]

OK so heres the deal. I want to re-do the suspension on my'72. I was thinking new shocks and springs all the way around, new bushings and maybe a rear sway bar. I don't really know anything about suspension setups si I need a little help.

Springs: I plan on buying stock for the front(Malibu by the way) and wagon(Concourse or Nomad,I think its the same?) for the back t give it a 2-3 " lift.

Shocks: I was thinking stock all the way around.

Bushings: This is where I need help. I have seen threads on here over the debate between rubber and polyurithane(sp) I think it is?

Sway Bar: I know nothing.

This is my daily driver so I don't need it to be a racing setup, but I do want it to handle well. Any suggestions or help is apprediated. I am not on tomuch of a budget but I don't want to spend a whole lot. What do you guys think?

 

[Md. 70 Malibu]

I suggest PST's polygraphite bushings. And do it right..replace upper & lower bushings. The lower are tougher but they will make all the difference as they are the ones that recieve all the impact from potholes etc... Polygraphite is tough like polyurethane but not as hard. The graphite acts as a lubricant as well. The stock rubber is OK but it will deflect and wear faster. Boxed arms are good but stay away from "Just Suspention Gold cadnium arms...thay fir poorly and require housing modifications.. Go with Hotchkis if you can afford them. Below is my site of my 70 and the suspentionwork being done on my buddys 70SS
http://mysite.verizon.net/jbarnes03

 

[Derek69SS]

Why do you want to lift the rear? Your rear suspension will perform best when the lower arms are parallel to the ground. By lifting the rear, you will cause it to wheel-hop violently.

 

[72silverchevelle]

The car sits down in the rear about 2 inches.I just want it a little above parralel to the ground. Not like 6 inches or anything.

 

[vrooom3440]

Be careful about mixing springs intended for different applications as the fronts and rears do interact. If they interact wrong, because you mixed poorly, the car can pogo with the front going up when the back goes down or vice versa.

If it is just a matter of lifting the rear I would look for a longer spring of the same rate or add adjusters to tune the ride height.

Steve

 

[bri2203]

If you are going to add a rear sway bar you might want to put on a bigger front sway bar so you don't get a lot of oversteer.

I rebuilt my suspension with rubber and stock springs buti couldn't tell you how it handles because i have yet to drive it

 

[sinned]

Is this in the wrong forum? I've yet to see a PT type car in which the owner was concerned about raising the chassis height.

I have no advise as far as part selection, you are trying to IMO recreate the stock crappy handling that came new with these cars.

 

[MarcusSC&C]

Okay since you posted this in the Pro-Touring section I`m going to assume you want to improve the handling at least a little. Going over your list I`d say:
Springs: get big block Moog springs and cut them half a coil. That`ll give you roughly stock ride height but with increases rate for better handling without a harsh ride. In the rear try Moog Cargo coils for a Chevelle coupe. It`ll sit factory height,maybe just a hair higher but not nose bleed high. At this height the car`s rear suspension can still perform reasonably well. Too high and it opens a can of anti performance worms. The cargo coils are also progressive rate so they`ll cut down on body lean and help the handling some.

Shocks: DON`T SKIMP! Get the very best shocks you can afford and you will be rewarded with a big increase in performance and ride. Bilsteins or Konis would be very high on my list with KYBs trailing way back there and anything Monroe,Gabriel etc. at the very bottom. Edelbrocks work alright when they`re new but they don`t hold up all that well in my experience.

Bushings: I`m not a big fan of poly for suspension bushings. Even the graphite impregnated ones often squeak and they`ve got quirky non linear binding issues. You can make a car work pretty good with them in but it`s in spite of them not because of them IMO. Del-a-lums would be a top choice but they`re quite expensive. I suggest Moog Problem Solver high durometer rubber bushings if you can get them for your application. They`re inexpensive and they work very well.

Swaybar: Leave the stock SS bar up front (make sure the bushings are in good shape) and run a 1" bar in the rear. These cars have a LOT of built in understeer and the rear bars are very inefficient due to being mounted on the lower arms so you can go larger in the rear that you would normally.

Since it`s a daily driver check out our Street Comp packages. Getting rid of the factory bumpsteer/backward geometry and doing a good alignment with modern specs makes a HUGE difference in how pleasant the car is to drive with the cool side effect of making it handle much better too. We have some mild ones that are pretty inexpensive and really bring the cars into the 21st century. Marcus SC&C

 

[72silverchevelle]

Thanks Marcus, that is what I am looking for. I don't want to raise it alot, like I said just a little above sock heigth in the rear. I am interested in handeling, that is why I posted it here.

 

[chevfan_1]

I have found out why most people think poly bushings squeek, they don't use enough lube when they are put together.The amount that comes with the kit is not enough.I have had a set on my elcaamino for about 5 years and drive it daily, they still don't squeek.