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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am having some problems fitting a 6.0 LQ9 in my '72 Chevelle. I have the F-body pan which was suppose to have a 1/4" clearance to the back of the frame from other installs I have read about. My pan is touching the back side of the frame. I am using 1" setback (3/8" thick) plates already and was looking at some that could go up to 1.5" back but I don't think they will fit on my block. The 1" setbacks are already touching (what appears to be) a mounting boss of some sort at the top of the plates and just ahead of them. To get more rearward block movement I would need the plates to move forward (be longer).

From other installs it sounded like the F-body pan would clear the steering control arms and with mine the grease zerks hit on the pan. I could see trying some 1/4" shims under the mounts but I don't think that is going to be enough to clear the linkage. Do you get the same result if the shims go under the frame mount or the engine mount.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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Who's motor plates did you use?? Did your car originally have a BB or a SB engine?? Are you using factory style motor mounts??

I guess I got lucky with my install...F-body pan. I used Trans-Dapt 4575 1" set back plates and cheap NAPA stock motor mounts.

I had to trim the plates slightly in the spots you mentioned to get them to fit flush to my block. (You can see where I ground my plates for clearance in this pic.)

I also added a 3/16" plate between the plates and mounts for tie rod clearance. But there is plenty of clearance now.









 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the pics. My frame mounts are stock and the motor mounts are Energy Suspension poly for SBC. The car came with a 350 but it wasn't the original motor. The plates are just a generic item off ebay. I was hoping a 1/4"-ish spacer beteween the block and the adjustable plate would give me what I need to clear the block. Do you think it could make it?? I know it is close.
 

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I was hoping a 1/4"-ish spacer beteween the block and the adjustable plate would give me what I need to clear the block. Do you think it could make it?? I know it is close.
I guess I don't know, like I said I ground my plates for the clearance with the block...1/4" will probably give you the tie rod clearance you need though.

The 3/16" spacers I made gave me plenty for my tie rod ends...(you can see them between the mounts and plates in the pics.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thanks for the info. It has helped quite a bit. I just measured my Energy Suspension mounts and found them to be 1/2" shorter than stock SBC mounts. That explains my height problem. So, if your Trans-Dapt plates are 3/8" thick + the SBC mounts + 3/16" plate then it looks like I need an additional 11/16" just to get to the same height as you. If your adapter plates are 5/16" thick then I would need 5/8". I checked for some details online but could not find your plate thickness. Do you happen to know what it is??
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I also added a 3/16" plate between the plates and mounts for tie rod clearance. But there is plenty of clearance now.




Do you think you would have enough clearance if you only used 1/8" plates rather than 3/16"??
 

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My apologies in advance, but I have a retarded question. Are there any little differences in swapping an LS motor into a 68 as there is a 72, or would it be identical? What about a 67 vs 68-72?

I have a 396 in my 68, so I'm curious to know how it differs from a car that previously had a small block, or if it's the same as a 67, 70, 72, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I "believe" 68-72 are all the same and 67 and earlier are different. I think the only difference in the mounts is with a 307 which has a taller frame mount. Hopefully someone will correct me if I am mistaken.
 
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