[Ron454]

My buddy has a new 526 in his car. Previous best was a 10.40 @ 127.
First time out, no traction, had to lift off the line every pass, best of 10.60 @ 130. So it's making good power.
Front suspension is stock save for a pair of CE 90/10's....complete crap. I know what to do up there.
Rear has SSM lowers and adj. uppers same crap CE shocks. Stock sway bar and air bags as well. Pinion is set at -3 deg.

It squats in the rear.

What do you guys like Bob W. run in the back? I'm just not a Chevelle expert, but I know they can work. (I told him to get a Nova.......)

Need some help here, this thing could go bottom tens pretty easy. And ya, it's street driven. He was running 295 M/T drag radials.

Thanks.

Ron (The wheelie guy)

 

[Harold Sutton]

The drag radials never hooked good on my son's car. Severe tire shake. They almost hooked when he went up to 18-19 lbs. of air in the tires. Just seemed to have too much torque for the tires. Real M/T 10.5S x 28 x 15s on a 12" wheel will do the trick though. Substitute a anti-roll bar for the air bags. Air bags restrict movement. Maybe better shocks might help. What else is the front suspension comprised of? Did he loose the factory roll bar in the front? Moving as many items to the trunk as possible is real effective, as is raising the upper control arm mounting points on the rear end (Edelbrock no hop bars). Dick Miller stuff works good. Alf Weibe pieces will make it bite but will stand up pretty regularly. Ski-dwn-it makes a Weibe knock off that seems to work just the same. Both make sort of a ladder bar suspension out of the stock stuff. Try the 10.5 real slicks first, be sure they are on a wide wheel, minimum of 10" but better on a 12" set.

 

[Bob West]

Does he have the lower brackets for the SSM bars? they drop the rear of the lca about 2"? I wouldnt think it would squat if he had those installed. I would install some kind of antiroll bar for sure at his power level and the rear suspension needs to be stiff. I have the SSM bars in the stock location on my Moser housing, but the ears are raised compared to a GM housing.

 

[Bob West]

At my power level the Hoosier drag radials work every bit as good as the Hoosier radial slicks, just wont last as long. On a TNT track I went 1.38 with the drag radials, mounted new slicks last Saturday and went 1.38 all day/night long.

 

[BillyGman]

I have the SSM bars in the stock location on my Moser housing, but the ears are raised compared to a GM housing.

Bob, am I correct to assume that you're speaking of the ears for the rear mounting points of the upper control arms? That's what My Strange Dana 60 ("S-60") rear end has too. The upper control arm mounting ears are 1.5" taller than the ears on the factory GM 12 bolt rear. So it shortens the I.C. just like "No-hop" bars would.

Also, if he doesn't have the lowering mounting brackets for the rear mounting points of his SSM lift bars, he can purchase the "relocation" brackets from UMIperformance http://www.umiperformance.com/products.php?category_id=17 which would allow him to mount the SSM bars (or any boxed lower control arms ) in a lower position on the axle tubes. They're completely bolt-on w/out even any drilling being required.

 

[Bob West]

Thats them, the "ears" that the rear of the uca mounts to

 

[Dave427]

Put some tires on it. The drag radials aren't doing the job. Try some bias Hoosier Quick Time Pros or even slicks. I am not sure of the advantage of running the Hoosiers Drag Radials, it would be nice to see a comparison between the two.

Dave

 

[mc71454]

I am using Dick Miller stuff with QA1 shocks in the rear. KYB gas up front with shock nut deal when at the track. Will be re-installing my hrpartsnstuff anti-roll bar as well.

 

[Ron454]

He has a pair of 10.5 real slicks. That was the plan, but he likes to drive the car to the track.

Ron

The drag radials never hooked good on my son's car. Severe tire shake. They almost hooked when he went up to 18-19 lbs. of air in the tires. Just seemed to have too much torque for the tires. Real M/T 10.5S x 28 x 15s on a 12" wheel will do the trick though. Substitute a anti-roll bar for the air bags. Air bags restrict movement. Maybe better shocks might help. What else is the front suspension comprised of? Did he loose the factory roll bar in the front? Moving as many items to the trunk as possible is real effective, as is raising the upper control arm mounting points on the rear end (Edelbrock no hop bars). Dick Miller stuff works good. Alf Weibe pieces will make it bite but will stand up pretty regularly. Ski-dwn-it makes a Weibe knock off that seems to work just the same. Both make sort of a ladder bar suspension out of the stock stuff. Try the 10.5 real slicks first, be sure they are on a wide wheel, minimum of 10" but better on a 12" set.

 

[Ron454]

Also, if he doesn't have the lowering mounting brackets for the rear mounting points of his SSM lift bars, he can purchase the "relocation" brackets from UMIperformance http://www.umiperformance.com/products.php?category_id=17 which would allow him to mount the SSM bars (or any boxed lower control arms ) in a lower position on the axle tubes. They're completely bolt-on w/out even any drilling being required.

I'm not sure if he has the lowering mounting brackets or not. I haven't been under there in a long time.
I'll ask him.

Thanks,

Ron

 

[Ron454]

Does he have the lower brackets for the SSM bars? they drop the rear of the lca about 2"? I wouldnt think it would squat if he had those installed. I would install some kind of antiroll bar for sure at his power level and the rear suspension needs to be stiff. I have the SSM bars in the stock location on my Moser housing, but the ears are raised compared to a GM housing.

Thanks Bob and all. I'll pass the info along.

Ron

 

[BillyGman]

You're welcome Ron. Bottom line is, what both Bob and myself were getting at is that if his car is squatting off the line, then that's probably an indication that he needs more anti-squat which can often be obtained with a shorter Instant Center. And the lift bars as well as those relocation brackets shorten the instant center. Once he gets the I.C. short enough, he might then need to focus on eliminating rear suspension bounce which is sometimes the reaction from the initial hit of the anti-squat action, and can sometimes cause a loss of traction 20 or 30 feet off the line after the initial hit of the tires.

He can then contend with any such bounce by using stiffer compression settings with double adjustable rear shocks, and even heavier coil springs. Tell him to make sure his rear coil springs are up to snuff. if they're light or worn, that won't help matters once he shortens the I.C.

 

[Bob West]

Once I had the back end lined out I had to contend with the front end, installed 5392's and the KONI street adjustables set on full soft on extension which really isnt all that soft but it controls the rise so as to not unload the rear suspension.

 

[BillyGman]

Once I had the back end lined out I had to contend with the front end, installed 5392's and the KONI street adjustables set on full soft on extension which really isnt all that soft but it controls the rise so as to not unload the rear suspension.

This here^ is the type of info that is some of the most helpful and valuable in amateur drag racing, and I have great appreciation as well as respect for guys like Bob for sharing gems of info such as this. Great stuff. Thanks Bob. :thumbsup:

 

[Ron454]

Me too. Exactly why I asked you guys.
I passed along the info, and all I got was argured with. So be it. He can just struggle with tire spin.
He does have the lowering mounts on the SSM bars.
But has stock springs, crap shocks etc. And the front end as I mentioned is stock...no sway bar.
I believe it should hook with the DR's. Shoot, guys go 8's with them.
His plan, run the real slicks and blame the track.
My belief, if the track is at least decent, with a good setup, you will hook.
My bumper ride came on a night where everyone else was spinning. I ain't no leaf spring genious, I just listened to the right folks here and over on the Camaro site.

Thanks again guys, I'll just have to enjoy beating his butt.

Ron

 

[FourEightyNine]

I would also like to give my thanks to go to guys hard work. I have basically copied his combination as best I could with a little of my own spin on it.

With out this I could have very well ended up with a rectangle port single place, 5.13 geared, turd

Just to let Ed in on the scenario I didnt degree the 286R in when I did the motor and it turned out to be 8 degrees retarded, havent been able to run it since.

 

[Bob West]

So who was the genius that deleted Eds posts??? What was wrong with his post?

 

[Dean]

So who was the genius that deleted Eds posts??? What was wrong with his post?

Why do you need to know?

Ed has been banned from this site for quite some time now.

 

[Bob West]

I want to know Dean, do you care to admit to it? and I asked what was wrong with his post?

 

[Bob West]

I pay my dues each year. IS that not enough reason for you Dean?