There is little difference between wiring for 220 compared to 110 but caution is the operative word here.
There are several things that you should NOT do:
Don't even think about running a 220 appliance on 110. Do not re-wire a 220 appliance with a different connector to use on a 220 circuit. The connectors are different on purpose. Each is rated differently.
If your compressor has the same connector as your heater or dryer, then you are fine. If not:
Find the current rating of your compressor. Take a trip to your local home center and get a 220 breaker that will fit your breaker box. Get enough 10ga or 12ga four conductor wire (3 plus a ground). The guage will depend on the current of your compressor. The box or the floor guy will tell you which is OK.
If your garage/shop has open studs, then the wire can be romex (standard wire) and it can be run through drilled holes in the studs.
If your garage/shop is drywalled, you can't use romex. You have to buy conduit. There are three types:
PVC-Make sure it is schedule 40 (rated for electrical). You will need several fittings, glue, elbows, etc.
METAL-not flexible. You will also need fittings, etc., and a bender.
BX-This is flexible metal conduit. Fewer do-dads are required and no bending.
In any case, your local code may require a separate switch close to the outlet. Ask the guy at the home center.
I would recommend getting all that you need, run all the wire and conduit around your shop, wire the switch (if needed) and the outlet. Do everything but the actual connection to the breaker box. If you are uncomfortable, have the electrician install the breaker and connect it up.
In any case, whether you do it all yourself or have the electrician to it all, it shouldn't cost too much.
Hope that helps.
Bob