[JohnC]

Just finish installing a new engine I built. 350 engine with Performer RPM cam, heads. Single plenum intake, HEI, carter afb 600cfm, headers etc.
Installed it and now I can't get it to start. Even when I put gas down the carb, it sputters and pops for a second or so and just dies. Even backfired through the carb a few times. Fuel pressure guage reads 6psi. and the fuel bowls are full, but when I operate the throttle, I don't see fuel squirting into the carb. Does this mean the accelerator pump is bad? This shouldn't prevent it from idling though, should it?
Also, when I put gas in the carb and it runs for a second or two (at most), it really sputters and pops and generally runs rough. Sounds a lot like a pro-stocker. Is this a timing problem? Kind of new at this, but set engine at 8 degrees BTDC (static timing) and put in HEI just as I have in the past. In the past, it would start well enough to run at least, but not now. Tried turning the HEI both ways without improvement.
My thought is to rebuild the carb. Since it is sputtering I guess there is spark so must be fuel problem, right? (The carb was rebuilt about a year and a half ago but has not run in about 9 months - could be gummed up with old fuel). I will also replace the plugs. I reused old ones but they looked real good and probably had only 20 miles on them. The wires are very low milage and show no sign of wear. Ditto the HEI cap and rotor. We triple checked that all the wires were going to the right plugs etc.
Any other recommendations would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to damage this new engine. We tried to start it for a while, but gave up so we wouldn't flatten the cam lobes (we did prelube the engine and the guage reads 30psi).
Thanks a bunch.

 

[Steve R]

It really sounds like a fuel problem. I would replace the carb if you can afford it, I think it is mis-matched to your engine. I would get something like an Edelbrock 750 or Holley 750 vac. secondary. If you can't afford a new carb then try the rebuild, don't forget to blow out any passages with air.Good luck.

Steve R.

 

[Mr69]

You said..."Even backfired through the carb a few times."

I'll bet your carburetor is fine. The accelerator pump rubber may have shrunk, check that.
SOUNDS LIKE THE TIMING IS 180 DEGREES OUT TO ME. YOU BETTER CHECK IT AGAIN.
ALSO----
HEI'S TIME DIFFERENT THAN POINT TYPE DIST. GET A CHILTONS OR MOTOR MANUAL AND CHECK IT OUT. #1 IS IN A DIFFERENT SPOT ON THE HEI, COMPARED TO THE POINT TYPE DISTRIBUTOR.
There is a possibilty that you are only off a few teeth. (the difference between the points type dist and the HEI).

If you suspect that the distributor is out 180 degrees...What I have done in this situation.
1. Make sure the #1 wire is in the #1 position on the cap.
2. Pull the dist up just far enough to move the rotor, and turn it 180 degrees.
I'll bet she fires right off and runs smoooooooth !!
Remember...new engine break-in...30-35 minutes @ 2000-2500 rpm
Also.....did you have an HEI installed before the new engine ? If not, you'll need to run a 10 or 12 Ga wire from the fuse block to the dist. Make sure the coil gets 12 volts ! The old cloth insulated resistor type wire won't give you the necessary voltage. You'll need to check where you hook into on the fuse block and make sure it only gets power when the key is in the "on" and "start" positions.
Nate



[This message has been edited by SS3964N8 (edited 05-28-2001).]

 

[Dean]

make sure the rotor is pointing to # 1 plug wire with piston at TDC (both valves closed)
or just try pulling the dist and rotating it 180

I bet you have it 180 degrees out, it's so easy to do

14 ga. wire to the coil is plenty big enough

------------------
Dean Call
Team Gold member #3
A.C.E.S. # 00235
Mid America Chevelle Club #001
chevelles.net
My 69

ACES/Midwest Chevelle Regionals

Never lend your car to anyone to whom you have given birth.

 

[EdCarpenter]

Another thing to check one more time is whether you have all plug wires correct. I bought a car once and owner said the engine had an internal problem. It ran similar as yours. I even had to use either to get it to fire. I looked at every thing and couldn't figure it out. I was about to pull the heads. I checked the wires. I found 2 of them wrong at the cap. I corrected them and it ran great.

 

[Randy Mosier]

Ditto on the timing being 180 off. It's a very common mistake. We've all done it.

 

[JohnC]

Thanks for the replies.
I'll recheck the timing, but I don't think it should be 180 degrees out. With the number 1 spark plug out and thumb over the hole, we turned the engine until there was air coming out and gently turned until we got to zero degrees, then went to 8 degrees BTDC. For the HEI we turned the rotor to number 1 then turned it back 2 1/4 inches (like the book said) and dropped it in. When the gears engage, the rotor turns back to the number 1 post.
This should be correct right? Air wouldn't come out of the hole if you were 180 degrees out. Let me know if I'm wrong.
I'll pull the valve cover and check that number one valves are closed too.
Thanks a million for the advice. Any other thoughts?

 

[ToocoolZ28]

I would still say if the Distributor isnt 180 out, its at least a few teeth off.
Ron
Good luck and keep us posted.

------------------
70 Chevelle SS396
66 Nova SS 327
95 Z28 Convertible.
Aces 3081, TC #54 Gold

 

[Johnny O]

John, mine ran like that just after my rebuild when I first started it.....I just had to advance the timing a little, and it started and ran smooth. I had it set just like you did at first, but it was too retarded to run well I guess. I turned the dist. counter clockwise about an inch and it made a world of difference. John

 

[ToocoolZ28]

You dont have the rockers tightened down too much do you? Wouldnt hurt to check.
Ron

------------------
70 Chevelle SS396
66 Nova SS 327
95 Z28 Convertible.
Aces 3081, TC #54 Gold

 

[Hypersonic]

You said: With the number 1 spark plug out and thumb over the hole, we turned the engine until there was air coming out and gently turned until we got to zero degrees, then went to 8 degrees BTDC.

If you moved the crank back 8 deg then put the dist. in then you will be off.

After you bring the piston to TDC with both valves closed, and the balancer set to "0", put the dist in, having the rotor pointing towards the #1 cylinder.

Betcha it runs just fine.

pete

 

[snake]

i agree my first sb rebuild i tighten the valves to tight did just what your saying.

------------------
http://home.talkcity.com/sparkplugst/snakepell/index.html 66 396 Beaumont.
Once bitten twice shy.
Don Pell 66 396Beaumont.
Once bitten twice shy

 

[snake]

i agree my first sb rebuild i tighten the valves to tight did just what your saying.

------------------
http://home.talkcity.com/sparkplugst/snakepell/index.html 66 396 Beaumont.
Once bitten twice shy.
Don Pell 66 396Beaumont.
Once bitten twice shy

 

[JohnC]

Thanks a million for all the replies. This website is a lifesaver.
I'm going to do a few things:
My dad has a never-been-opened, brand new Holley carb (600 cfm vac secondary) sitting around. I'll put that on. Any question of fuel delivery problem - solved.
I'll change the plugs, check the wires, recheck that the rockers aren't torqued too tight.
But I think that Hypersonic nail the probllem right on the head. I'm going to throw away that book that told me to install the distributer at 8 degrees BTDC, and install a 0 degrees. A very knowledgeable friend suggested the same thing.
I'll give it a try this weekend. Thanks again.