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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a major problem. The wiring diagrams for the rear light body connector are not clear in how to hook up the brake and signal lights. There is no fuse panel any more, and everything is direct wire. I Have heard that the Brakes and turn signal leads are the same. Then I read that the brake lights are run through the running (parking)lights lead. All I have is a taylor switch panel, and EVERYTHING is boged together with wire nuts, electrical tape , and a few prayers!

And just how Painless is the 18-circut Painless Wiring setup?

HELP!!!!!!!!!

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70 454
TH350
12-bolt Car 4.56

[This message has been edited by BlazingChevhell (edited 08-24-2002).]
 

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I just rewired a 66 chev truck, and I think the brake/turn signals work the same. If not ignore me....


The brake light wire goes into the turn signal switch, and all 4 (lf, rf, lr, rr) turn signals come out of the switch seperate. The brake lights go into the switch, so when you turn on a turn signal, you actually turn OFF one of the brake lights (if they are on), and turn ON one of the turn signals. The other brake light is unaffected. Each rear light should have 2 wires. The parking light wire, which is not connected to the turn signal switch in any way. And the brake/turn signal wire for each light. Each light will have a different wire for the brake/turn signal, because you need 2 different wires for the 2 different turn signals. Having both brake lights on at the same time is the turn signal switch actually turning on both turn signal bulbs at the same time, it acts as a splitter.

To sum it up, you should have at LEAST 7 wires coming out of the column, probably all 8 if you have 4 way flashers

1 LF turn
2 RF turn
3 LR turn
4 RR turn
5 Turn signal in from flasher
6 Brake light in from brake light switch
7 Horn
8 4 way flasher in from flasher can

Now for the brake lights, wires 3 & 4 from above go to the rear brake lights. And the will be one more wire for the parking lights that is common for both rear lights, and the front parking lights. This wire is from the headlight switch.

Good luck! (if you can't understand my rambling description, let me know......)

chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Prolem is the coloum harness is burnt up. I have two flasher breakers and attempted to wire the brake leads to the output side of the flasher. Blew both of them. Then i realised (too late) that I had just run 24 volts into a 12 volt wire. Lucky only the flashers got fried. The cam was out long before the fire that destroyed the fuse panel and most of the wiring, so everyting is direct wire.
 

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Your best bet is to get another turn signal switch that goes in the column and has the proper pigtail harness. You really can't wire the turn signals and brakes properly without it. (you can, but not worth the trouble - You'd need diodes and wierd 3 contact switches and stuff like that to get it to work.)

I have a feeling you don't have enough fuse protection now, you don't have a fuse block?? Please don't tell me that everything is wire nutted to the battery direct...... You MUST fix this! (this is how fires start.....) Get a new fuse panel ASAP and fix it right. The Painless harness I put in the 66 truck was pretty simple. The instructions contained enough information to pull it off successfully, a few errors, but readable. If you go this route, get a harness specific to your car and year, not a universal one. Again, this is the easiest way, a universal one can be made to work. Also, get a voltmeter and you can test wires without just touching them together. You can also get a wiring diagram of your car, I found this to be VERY helpful in figuring this stuff out.

chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the info. I am not an electrical guru, so I just have stuff on a diredt wire. The Battery is currently in my truck, I start the car only on weekends now, as it is in sorry shape. So the Painless kits are not hard to set up eh'? I meed more solder...hmm....


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70 454
TH350
12-bolt Car 4.56
 
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