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Discussion Starter #1
Since I put in my Autometer guages and redid my entire dash, the wiring is piling up! The wires for the lights on each autometer going into the fuseblock, one of the open ports that comes on when the IGN does. Im about to install an Alarm/ Shaved door kit, more wires! Im just wondering where I should start plugging stuff in, Ive only got a couple spots on the fuse block.... Any help is great help... thanks
 

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I added a bunch of fans, fuel pumps, guages and relays, and a line lock. I bought a small blade type fuse panel at the parts store. I mounted it on the firewall, and wired it up to the battery. I put all the additional stuff onto there, instead of the factory fuse block. You could put it somewhere else, like under the dash though. Make sure it's hooked up with a fuseable link to the battery though.
 
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Cooool, I'll look into that. SOunds like a good move. Do you know anything about alarms? Im hooking up the red wire, main power it says to plug into the fuse box, all pretty simple. But it doesnt say if I plug into an always hot, or only hot when IGNITION is on. I would think always hot being an alarm.... but i dont want to drain this thing on accident...
 

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Your alarm needs to have live juice all the time - not much use for an alarm that only works when the ignition is on.

Thomas
 
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Ha... yes, I figured. Thanks for all the quick responces, I have a new question if anyone knows. With the alarm I am hooking up (Autoloc) I need to weave in a wire off the alarm to the ON position on the Ignition, my question.... what color wire is the ON position....
 
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Thanks! That makes perfect sence now. Other than it looking ugly having more than one thing going into my IGN on the fuse box, is it unsafe?
 

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May be this will help.They have a WEB site. www.yearwood.com

I just got a Yearwood catalog in the mail. They sell a universal instrument harness for $60.00. I made mine when I added all new monster gauges from Autometer; plus a Volt, Water & Temp gauges.

I wish I had known about this harness earlier it's worth the money
 

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Wire the whole thing at once; this will help you avoid making unnecessary splice after splice each time you add a new alarm component. All of your power needs should come from the column; they’re all there- constant, switched, crank, horn & ground. Your light flash wire can be accessed from the back of the headlight switch. Scotch lock makes a great squeeze on T-Tap and you wont need the fuse box at all. A lot of people frown at T-Taps. I’m not talking about the crappy ones that NAPA sells. I worked at Auto Sound & more installing alarms & remote starters for 3 years and used properly they work excellent.
 
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