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Discussion Starter #1
I am switching to an HEI distributor. It is in the block.. All I need to do is run the hot wire from the key side of the fuse box. My question is...Has someone else done this very thing a clean way. I don't see a "professional" way to do this and make it look good. I will probably just splice onto one of the connectors behind the fuse box. My other question is. with the old distributor off, where does the wire go that originally led to the tach? Also what exactly is the fabric shielded wire that lead to the same terminal as the tach wire? (guessing starter..)

That should be a good start.
 

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Stinky,
Click on this: www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref5.html
This should answer most questions you have about switching to HEI, including some trouble shooting. Right next to where your 12V lead from the fuse block hooks into your HEI cap will be a connection for the tach. I ordered a ready prepared 12ga wire from Year One. It has the HEI connector as well as the spade connector for the fuse block. I'm planning on leaving the resistance wire in place(just not connected anywhere) and simply detaching it's spade connector from the block and plugging in the new wire. The wire from the starter is no longer needed. Check out that tech reference link, it should answere most questions.

------------------
Fred
Team Chevelle #400
Madness takes it's toll, please have exact change.
www.geocities.com/motorcity/shop/9385/1970Chevelle.html
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Fred,
I have the Tech Ref #5 printed out in front of me. I did see a couple things that I missed before. The shielded wire is the wire that goes to the starter that I no longer need. No prob. I will either set it to the side unused (if I ever need it again). There is another wire on the + side of the coil that apparently is the resistance wire. I forget where exactly it leads. Regardless, I don't need it.

As for the wire that comes from the tach, it is a ground wire. that attached to the - terminal. Can I simply ground that out anywhere, or do I refit that to the - side of the HEI? Tech Ref #5 mentions nothing about the tach.

Thanks for the reply. This is trivial stuff, but it makes the diffence between a headache upgrade to a fun performance enhancement.


Stinky1
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Fred,

I think I need eye glasses.. You mentioned the tach answer already.. I will take a closer look when I get home.

Thanks again...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I just got off the phone with Year One. The tech guy told me that I don't have to go through the firewall at all. I can use the same terminal for the resistance wire at the firewall connector. That is logical. He did say that I still needed the resistance wire to connect to the starter. That was not outlined in Tech Ref #5. Is that true?

Even though the resistance wire does not go to the HEI, it supposedly needs to go down to the starter whereas the new power wire will go directly to the HEI.

Getting closer.
 

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stinky1
You do not need either of the old wires that were connected to your points distributor.
The old wire that came from the bulkhead connector is a resistance wire that dropped the voltage to 8-9V while the motor was running. To increase life of the coil.
The other old wire from the starter provided a full 12V while cranking to make starting easier.
Because the new HEI needs a full 12V all the time you only need the new wire that you plan to add. Both old wires can be taped off.
There is no need to connect the resistance wire to the starter.

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Rick (Abilene Texas)
72 El Camino
TPI 350/700r4
Aces #00140
TEAM CHEVELLE #00038
 

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When I did mine, (bone yard HEI) I just pigtailed the HEI connector. Cut the connector off the "insulated" wire, tach wire and the (resistor) wire. I set aside the "insulated" wire.

The resistor wire I hooked to a relay and powered the hot side of the relay from the 12V block on the firewall (a ground wire from the relay to firewall of course). Then spliced the other lead to the right hand pigtail (BATT) on the cap. Hooked the remaining wire to the TACH pigtail and zoom! It took some fooling around to get the right TACH wire from the old coil, but I got it.

The 15 amp relay ($5) came with detailed instructions. It had industry standard numbered connectors.

I'll replace the relay setup when I pull the motor. I like the idea of coming off the firewall connector.

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Dale P.
65 El Camino
72 Monte Carlo
"..you did you take the washer off, right?"
 

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I've completed the conversion on my 67 Elky. I still need to connect the "battery" terminal to a good "hot" lead, but was actually able to get it running using the original distributor lead.

One word of caution, and this is really for other people converting. While you can "make" any HEI with Vacuum advance work, it's best to stick with an HEI that doesn't have the 4 connector "computer" wire. It's extra work and doesn't make for a "clean" installation.

Francis
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just got the HEI conversion completed.. Not a single hic-up.. worked like a charm.

I used the original resistor wire termanial in the firewall plug and used it for my new power wire.

Used the Accell Super Stock Universal fit 8mm plug wire set (black) cut to fit.. Looks like it brand new.. It is..


I took her for a drive today and I can feel a boost. I figure around 15hp. not much but I can feel a difference.

As if this wasn't already common knowledge, but everyone should put in an HEI distributor. Anything more than that, go MSD.

that is next..


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=========================
Richard Olsen
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1959 Elky 348 3x2 - Really Low
1971 Elky 396 SS A/C
Building: 1970 Elky for 200mph speed run
=========================
 

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Stinky1,
Glad to hear that all went well!

Always nice to see a reply letting us know the outcome!
Fred
 
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