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I'm trying to fix my non working heater ('72 Chevelle, with aircon). I checked the posts in the archive and here's what I did: 12V on the 3 connectors on the switch in the dash, but nothing. So it's a possible faulty motor, or wiring to the motor. Therefore I need to check the connector to the motor in the engine bay. Not sure where it's located - see pic?)

I checked the connector with 4 pins. Should have 3 x 12V, and one ground. I need to know which one is the ground (had 12V on one of them, other 3: nothing) And if thats not the connector, where is it?

Thanks,
Filip
 

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I am not sure what you are trying to run down but the blower motor runs off a 16 gauge puple wire up under the fender. The other ones I can check for you after I get home.

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Deon
72SS454 Clone
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Yep, the fan motor is in one of the most difficult places to get -- on the firewall beneath the passenger fender. To replace the fan motor it can be easier to pull the inner fender to get at it from under the wheel well. On my '69 Elky with A/C there is also a relay on the A/C box in the engine compartment. This is to save the fan switch as the A/C cars run a more powerful fan (the relay only kicks in for the high speed so it should not affect the lower speeds.)
 

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Disconnect the hi-speed blower relay plug. The Relay is that little box by the top right of the evaporator box, by the wiring gutter on the cowl. Find the slot in the plug that corresponds to the purple wire.

Find a chunk of scrap wire (at least 14 ga.) and stick one end in the purple wire's slot. Take the other end and touch it to the slot that contains the wire that leads to the inline fuse on the cowl. The fan motor should whirl to life as you are directly connecting it to 12 volts power. Before doing this, make sure you have a good 30 AMP fuse in the inline fuse holder. This fuse holder should be in the cowl wiring gutter (0r around it). Post back if things look suspicious (like hacked wires,no fuse holder or jury rigging). Don't attempt to connect to blower right to the battery without a fuse provision. A shorted out motor could mean bad things! Make sure you grip the scap wire by it's insulation (there'll be a spark, and I'm not sure if you know what the properties of an electromagnetic inductor can do!)

[This message has been edited by Coppertop (edited 10-08-2002).]

[This message has been edited by Coppertop (edited 10-08-2002).]
 

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Is that an old stain below the brake master cylander or is that fresh brake fluid? Looks scary in the picture.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
sorry for the late reply. just back from a vacation.
I thin the blower motor is fried. Coppertop: I tried what you said, and nada. Gonna have to pull it some time in the future...
Yes, that is a LPG conversion. I've got this picture that explains what all components are.

And the stain is an old one. I already replaced the master cylinder (had some problems some time ago, asked some info here and all is solved now) It's just not so easy to remove. must be a real old one.

Thanks for all the info!
 

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My '71 looks a lot like that, except I don't have an LPG conversion.

And my "relay box" is pretty well toasted. As are the plastic connectors housing the three wires remaining somewhat attached to the box, and the formerly orange wire (now burnt and hanging in space).

I put the blower motor in a year ago, and it worked fine for a while. No changes to the wiring, except that the stock blower switch at the dash had previously been bypassed (I assume it crapped out) and replaced with a toggle switch and inline fuse under the dash by a PO.

But then I noticed no more hot air, and found a mess...

So where do I go from here to diagnose the source of the problem; and how should it be wired / fused to prevent this from happening again?

Many thanks for your quick replies, the cold season is upon us already...

Cheers,
mark.
'71 Fodor
"Soon to be... 383"
 
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