You don't need to take the fender off. There are 5 nuts on the engine side of the firewall which must come off. One below the hood hinge is a just a little difficult. Most of your work will be under the dash. You don't need to remove the big fiberglass duct from the heater box, they can come out together. You will need to remove the plastic kick panel. Be careful of the seal where the duct goes through to the evaporator. To the best of my knowledge, this seal is not available, NOS or repro (If anyone knows of a source, by all means let me know). Also when you put it back together make sure you get it right, so you don't get water leaks when it rains.
Now I've got a question for you or other 65 w/AC people. What is the "correct" glove box? My original one is kind of ratty so I ordered a replacement. The "65 w/AC" replacement is much smaller than my original. In fact my original is what the catalogs call w/o AC, and it fits fine. So I'm going with the w/o AC glove box since it's got nearly twice the capacity. I'm also essentially 100% sure that mine's original.
Another comment. The service manual does not cover heater core replacement for AC cars for some reason. There are some important differences, especially the evaporator duct.
[This message has been edited by Carl Brune (edited 02-13-99).]
Now I've got a question for you or other 65 w/AC people. What is the "correct" glove box? My original one is kind of ratty so I ordered a replacement. The "65 w/AC" replacement is much smaller than my original. In fact my original is what the catalogs call w/o AC, and it fits fine. So I'm going with the w/o AC glove box since it's got nearly twice the capacity. I'm also essentially 100% sure that mine's original.
Another comment. The service manual does not cover heater core replacement for AC cars for some reason. There are some important differences, especially the evaporator duct.
[This message has been edited by Carl Brune (edited 02-13-99).]
