[PakChevelle]

Hi all I have a 383 stroker and have been trying to get the tuning right on it...only has about 500 miles on it.

Recently I have noticed a clicking sound when I an driving and it gets faster or slower when I accelerate or decelerate.

Also I am hearing and random times a loud knocking noise when I am stopped or idle. This doesn't happen all the time, and goes away when I put the gear in neutral.

The noise ia definitely coming from the engine. Any ideas what I can start checking?

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[Dave427]

Pull your inspection cover check your torque converter bolts first.

Pull the oil filter , cut it open look for metal.

Dave

 

[lg1969]

I would check for loose rockers and look for exhaust leaks first. Next, check for lifters.

 

[Andy's Auto Repair]

Check your flexplate for cracks. If it has an inspection cover, gently tap; it with a hammer. If it sounds like a broken church bell, you found it. Cracked Flexys are very erratic in sound.

 

[Bluegoose1970]

Exhaust leak and exhaust pipe hitting frame when in gear . Goes away when mounts unload.
I think you have a good starting point with the replies.


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[PakChevelle]

Thanks for all the replies. ..checked torque converter bolts and they were good...checked oil filter for metal and did not find any shavings.

Next I guess will be to check the rockers and lifters then exhaust. Thanks again I will keep you posted.

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[PakChevelle]

Is it safe to drive? I am afraid of causing damage to the engine...

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[PakChevelle]

Once again thanks to everyone with your guidance.

So I checked my lifters / roller rockers and discovered one of them was completely off and the bolt broken. See picture attached. I also checked by hand a the rest and most are tight and one or two are just a little loose.

The one that has the broken bolt should I just remove the remaining bolt and would I just be able to purchase the bolt only?and where to buy?

As always your help is appreciated.

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[PakChevelle]

Sorry forgot pic in last post. See attached

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[PakChevelle]

Alright ive gotten the broken stud out now...just have to find out where to buy the replacement stud.

Also I pulled out the push rod to make sure that it is not bent and luckily the push rod is straight.

Now the question is how to ensure the push rod is inserted properly and any steps I need to take to install the new stud?

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[Bluegoose1970]

Some things to think about,
What is the cam lift, any signs of rocker arm interference?
Is the valve affected returned all the way to being seated?
Is that cylinder leak down ok, or did the valve stick or hit the piston.
New build, new studs, better grade for larger lift?
How long are the studs, are you at the end of the stud with your nut? Should they be longer?
Have you checked the lifter is in bore?
As far as seating the pushrods, you should feel it in the cup and compare to another pushrods, if it is the same range of motion at the pushrod guide plate.

Harden studs will break, just make sure it's none of the above reasons, I would inspect some of the others while repairing it.



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[PakChevelle]

Hello everyone...finally completed the fix..replaced the stud...prior to replacing roller rocker stud ...made sure engine is

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[PakChevelle]

Hi everyone... so the ticking has been completely repaired thanks to the awesome advise of the forum users.

To recap, the ticking noise was coming from some loose roller rockers. Upon inspection one of the roller rocker studs had broken at the top where the poly lock connects.

Removed the broken stud, checked all 16 studs for damage and replaced stud. (Which can be purchased at any engine repair shop)

After replacing stud then proceeded to check push rods and for any other damage none was found.

Did some manual adjustments to the loose roller rockers. And back up and running.

THANKS AGAIN For your help!

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