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Discussion Starter #1
could someone please tell me what the following wires are that connect to the headlight switch:

brown
dark green
red
white
light blue
oarnge

by what they mean im aksing what is their function-which light up the gauges, which is ground, which turns on the headlight, etc. thanks!!

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Nick
70 El Camino SS 396
3.73 with a 12 bolt

http://www.geocities.com/bodukess/my_elco_page.html
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Red - always hot - powers "blue" for headlights
Blue - to headlight dimmer switch
White - grounds for interior lights
Orange - fused power to interior lights - (powers green and brown?)
Green - to dash lights
Brown - to taillights.

Can you confirm? Thanks,

just want to make sure this is true for a SS dash. non gauges/just idiot lights.

nick
 

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Discussion Starter #5
so im planning on having 2 seperate switches. one for headlights/tailights and one for gauge lights. i dont have to worry about power or ground for either switch, i have those taken care of along with the rest of the guages. to turn on gauges lights, should i hook up green wire to "load" on the 3 prong switch -which is used for the interior lights-and for the headlights/tailights switch-splice together the blue and the brown wire and then hook those to the "load" on the other switch?

if this makes no sense let me know, i will upload a picture or email one. thanks!
 

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If some one else wishes to help, I don't mind. Sorry I can't. Your idea eliminates the circuit breaker built into the factory switch. Not sure if your "3 prong switches" will properly handle the current. Just a couple of thoughts before I back out of this one.
 

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Nick

If you’re set on replacing the light switch with after market switches consider the following.

You need a fuse or circuit breaker (auto fuse) for the head light circuit.

The switch used for the head lights needs to be capable of handling the current load of the headlights. It’s not so much the current load on the switch when the lights are on but the burning of the contacts when switching on or off will destroy a wimpy switch.

Don’t connect the taillights to the head light circuit. Because of the high current needed for the headlights the circuit protection (fuse) will need to be at least 30 amps maybe higher (I don’t know the rating or the built in auto fuse). A short in the wiring to the tail lights, front or rear side marker lights or park lights (all part of the tail light circuit) could result in burned insulation before blowing the fuse. Although you can use a second inline fuse for the tail light circuit.

“to turn on gauges lights, should i hook up green wire to "load" on the 3 prong switch”

Yes that will work. You won’t have control of the brightness of the dash lights.

“which is used for the interior lights”

The white wire. By rotating the light switch full CCW the white wire is grounded. This completes the interior lighting circuit and turns on the lights. This switch is in parallel with the door switches. They also ground the white wire. You would need a third switch that when closed would connect the white wire to ground.

“for the headlights/taillights switch-splice together the blue and the brown wire and then hook those to the "load" on the other switch?”

As stated above the brown wire needs (20 amp) circuit protection. You can put an inline fuse between the blue wire and the brown wire.

Other options are to use a two-pole switch, separate circuits for the headlights and taillights. Or use the switch for the taillights and a relay for the headlights with the relay coil connected to the taillight circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
would not having to blue wire hooked up make it so that i have NO high beams

[This message has been edited by boduke (edited 03-12-2002).]
 
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