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I have a 66 396 and am wanting to put headers on. I have seen them ranging from $100 to $700, What kind do you reccomend?
 

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I just put a new set of Hooker Headers on my 72 malibu,2 inch tubes,snug fit,and had to dent the tube by the brake proportioning valve...only thing I dont like about the headers I have is they hang down about 3 inches below the front cross member,had to take out the small block springs and put in some big block springs to keep the headers off the ground...cost about 175 including collector reducers

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1972 Malibu,461 cid.
 

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I personally dont use them, but ive heard great things about doug thorley headers..

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Mike Reeh
Gold #34
San Diego, CA
 

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Dynomax ceramic coated from Summit. $199, 800 phone call, free shipping, no tax, good fit, good clearance and ceramic is the only way to go.

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Tom Parsons
 

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Go with Tom's recommendation. Just having my Hookers ( 2" Comps) from Jet-hot installed today. Just as I measured, #5 tube needed a dimple. To spend $400 and have to dimple them is utter BS IMO. The Dynomax may not be coated in and out like mine are. I don't know. I've heard from some Team members that the thinner wall Hooker super Comps fit better.

At the time, I wanted a 2" primary since my 427 wakes up between 4000 and 6700. Now I'm not so sure it's all that critical. GET THE DYNOMAX'S. Screw Hooker. I've heard Thorley are good. Like Tommy said, coated is the only way to go.

Gene Chaas
Gold Member 62
67 SS396/427

[This message has been edited by Gene Chas (edited 09-24-99).]
 

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I was running cheap headers at first with my big block. I later went to Hooker super Comps. the difference in power and response was very noticible. They fit just fine too. Lesson..you get what you pay for. If you plan to keep your ride a long time or show your car, go with the coating. It's money well spent no matter what brand you buy.
 

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listen to all of the above I have cheap headers and they are ok but it gets Darn hot under the hood and out the vents and the header wrap is very costly ($100, which is what i paid for the headers) my advice do it right the first time.jk

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members.aol.com/jnkb2cool/chevelle5.jpg John Krenn
1970 malibu SS look-a-like well kinda
307/200-4r

Ft.Worth, Tx
 

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I personally haven't used them, but as Mike said Doug Thorley Tri-Y's are a hot item this year. I've seen em on a few Chevelles & a lot of Camaros. I've also heard good things about Dynomax's too...see them everywhere. And I usually don't like to repeat what people said above, but, get them coated, it's worth the extra $.

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Jay W.
In-the-works 67 Malibu-Temecula, CA
genxrodsandcustoms.8m.com
surferwagons.8m.com
www.angelfire.com/ca4/67malibu
 

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We went with the Hooker Super Comp with Ceramic coating. As other mentioned, the brake proportioning valve was in the way and had to be moved. I had to replumb my whole front brake system, and although it took some time, the power and look of the headers is very satisfying. I think Hooker should change their design to avoid moving the valve, but I sure do like the headers. Go with the ceramics. I know Hooker coats theirs inside and out. I'm not sure if the others do or not. They cost about $350 from Summit.
 

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I called Thorley about headers for my 66 sb but they don't make them. I don't think they have them for a BB either. Every thing I saw in tha catalog was for 68 or later.

Early Chevelles just don't get any respect from aftermarker mfgs.

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Pat Kelley
66 El Camino, daily driver
67 El Camino, STRIP/street
 

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An addendum, I just got back from my 20 year HS reunion, next town over about 75 miles away. 75-80 most of the way and , just for kicks, opened the hood immediately when I got home. I was really surprised at the lack of heat from the JetHot Hookers. Could alomost touch them. Stuff works mint, and looks good too.

Point two: going to a 2" header for my application ( mid range 427 )really woke her up above 6. Very noticeable. I thought my cam was running out too soon. Nope. The engine has a much more "rip" at the upper range now and I didn't notice much, if any, loss down below.
 

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I like Sanderson Headers for their thick flanges 3/8" and their ports match near perfect. Onr thing to think about is Ceramic coating, buy them with out the coating, trial fit them to make sure they fit so you don't damage the coating, then send them out to be coated. Many times headers will need a little "Massaging" to get them just right. Also,I use a high temp silicone sealer instead of gaskets. Lay an 1/8" bead around the flange hole & let it "Skim over" then install 2 temp studs in the two outside bolt holes, slide the header on & tighten them up with a couple of nuts, next install the 2 center bolts & replace the "guide bolts". Never had a leak since I started use silicone.
 
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