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Does anyone know of a paint for headers that does not require heat curing? I have my engine apart, and would like to paint my headers now because it's convenient..but header paint requires heat curing within 8 hrs. of painting, and that wont happen...can POR15 be used? Has anyone had any experience with this? Thanks...John
 

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A buddy of mine used POR paint on his headers, and seems to be holding up fine. The more expensive way to do it, would be to have a plating shop do the job with Aluminum oxide.
 

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I used the POR-15 on my sons headers. Sandblasted and cleaned with paint prep. Was a month or so before installed. Lasted about 1 month after the 427 came to life.
I painted my headers with white VHT 15 years ago and it is still on. His car was run in the rain and mine wasn't. I think the cold water on a hot header is immediate death to any header paint. If you can afford it you are much better off with the ceramic coating.

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Steve Strasemeier (70SS)
 

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I used VHT on mine 3 years ago. Limited miles on the car, but it still looks like the day a painted them. They were rusted at the time, and I didn't spend much time cleaning them. It was supposed to be temporary until I could get some coated headers, but until they peel, I'm gonna leav'em.
 

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I used some exhaust paint I got from Eastwood. It was gray, but they might have it in black. I painted 3 sets of headers (427 vette, 396 El Camino and VW bug) and 2 sets of stock exhaust. In all cases it remained intact for 2+ years. I did bead blast all the parts as well as I could, but even in those areas I didn't blast, the coating still adhered, with no curing. I did them with a foam brush, but it can also be sprayed.
 

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Hey Johnny,
Just finished an engine swap into my 65 SS Coupe. Used Eastwoods Hi-Temp header paint on a set of well used Hooker Comps. Sandblasted them white metal then wiped them with lacccer thinner a few hour prior to paint. So far so good (I'll keep you all posted). Used the aluminum silver and just brushed it on. Stuff is like water so you have to be careful ( use a large dropcloth) They were painted about 4 weeks prior to reassembly. Stinks like hell when you first fire it up but after that seems okay. Check Eastwoods web site for more info. Good luck.
mgg
 

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Sorry to say, but my experience has been with heat-cured coatings from eastwood. The stuff worked well even on pretty rusted headers.

I suggest you wait until the point of installation and do the heat cure stuff. You'll be happier.
 

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Regular POR15 is not intended for that kind of heat but they have a couple other products, POR20 in silver or a cast iron grey
that is rated for 1400*. Also a satin black that rated at 1200*. I haven't tried them yet but plan on doing my manifolds in the grey.
 

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Steve S, If you used POR's exhaust/header paint, you shouldnt use metal ready or paint prep prior to application. Just beadblast the best you can, and then blow off the headers and paint. I have even used it on my IMCA modified and after 10 races, no peeling or rusting.
 
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