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Discussion Starter #1
Hi. I replaced my ignition lock cylinder today and put everything on excatally how it came off. My hazzard lights work but not my turn signals. They worked fine before, and I checked all fuses and none were blown. I don't think I damaged the switch at all, everything works and clicks ok, and all wires are still properly connected. The only think I can think of is that little piece of clear plastic that houses two copper blades and slips into the steering housing? It has a small crack in the clear plastic part but the copper blades are still firm. Could the signal switch still be busted internally somewhere I can't see and cause this? Thanks for your tips!


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'72 Nova
355 L-31 Vortec
TH-350
10-Bolt 2.56 Open, Rally Suspension
Weld Draglites (235/fr 255/rr)
3,071 lbs. w/ Full Cell
--------------------------------------
'70 Chevelle, gutted.
 

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Loose any of the springs that go under the copper contacts in the turn signal moveable piece (actuating/cancelling cam)?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If you mean the one spring under the plastic piece with the horn wire cylinder, its there


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'72 Nova
355 L-31 Vortec
TH-350
10-Bolt 2.56 Open, Rally Suspension
Weld Draglites (235/fr 255/rr)
3,071 lbs. w/ Full Cell
--------------------------------------
'70 Chevelle, gutted.
 

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There are three voltage feed wires to your turn signal switch. Battery voltage for hazard lights, battery voltage for stop lights
(which come from your stop light switch, and ignition voltage for your turn signals.
When you checked for turn signals was your ignition switch turned on??
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The brake lights work fine, and yes when I check for turn signals the key is in the on position with all idiot lights. I am totally stumped
Everything looks like where it should be, I put the thrust washer, spring, cancelling cam, all in order and then applyed the backing plate and snap ring thinking this may ground it or something, but to no avail. As mentioned before, no connections on the switch look ruptuerd and it still works and clicks ok, I just can't imagine what I could have done wrong
Could the switch still be bad? I hope I can get this fixed soon, have to get plates from DMV for it tomarrow
Thanks for your help guys.

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'72 Nova
355 L-31 Vortec
TH-350
10-Bolt 2.56 Open, Rally Suspension
Weld Draglites (235/fr 255/rr)
3,071 lbs. w/ Full Cell
--------------------------------------
'70 Chevelle, gutted.
 

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7,762 Posts
Couple of things to look at. As Old Longboarder mentioned the turn signals have their own power source. Get to that in a second.
If you have the key on, select left turn signal and step on the brakes. The right brake light should come on. Select the right turn signal and step on the brakes. The left brake light should come on. This checks out some of the switch operations and maybe rules out a broken switch. Back to power.
Off the top of my head the input 12 volt wire is purple. Measure that (key on) on the turn signal switch connector on the top of the steering column. Measure it to a good ground. This purple wire comes from the turn signal can located under the dash. The other wire on the turn signal can is a pink wire from the fuse block. Both wires on the can should have 12 volts (to ground) if the key is on.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I did the brake light test and everything checked out ok, as far as to measure, I dont have a volt/ohm meter, would a test light suffice? Thanks John...

------------------
'72 Nova
355 L-31 Vortec
TH-350
10-Bolt 2.56 Open, Rally Suspension
Weld Draglites (235/fr 255/rr)
3,071 lbs. w/ Full Cell
--------------------------------------
'70 Chevelle, gutted.
 

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92 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I have a pink wire and a black wire running to the top of the switch assembly.. Measure the pink one at it's brass/copper terminal? Also, the purple wire dissapers into a group of wires at the bottom of the switch going into the thing holding the hazzard switch. Is this the turn signal switch connecter? And if so, do I just press the tip of the measureing device directly to the body of it? Thanks John, this really helps.

[EDIT]: One more thing; does the little clear slender piece with two copper terminals that presses into the coloum behind the signal switch have anything to do with the turn signals? Because mine has a little piece of the plastic broken off and missing although the terminals are still stiff. Thanks again!

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'72 Nova
355 L-31 Vortec
TH-350
10-Bolt 2.56 Open, Rally Suspension
Weld Draglites (235/fr 255/rr)
3,071 lbs. w/ Full Cell
--------------------------------------
'70 Chevelle, gutted.

[This message has been edited by 70Bowtie (edited 07-08-2002).]
 

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Any chance your turn signal module went out? There is one for hazards and one for turn signals. One is located on the fuse block and the other is in a clip under the dash on the right-side of the column.


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Erik

'69 Chevelle Sport Coupe, EFI355, TH350
'68 Chevrolet C10 Stepside Project, 292, t-56
'77 Chevrolet K20 Silverado LWB, 400CI, TH400
 

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Yeah that's what I'm thinking Erik
"One more thing; does the little clear slender piece with two copper terminals that presses into the coloum behind the signal switch have anything to do with the turn signals? Because mine has a little piece of the plastic broken off and missing although the terminals are still stiff. Thanks again!"

Not a thing. The terminals go down into the key switch. If you leave your key in the ignition and open the door, the key minder circuit buzzes. No needed for a safety inspection.

I can't get at my Nova books for a few hours so I guess at the colors. Look for the turn signal can. Up under the dash somewhere between the column and the radio. Has a couple of wires on in. One should be pink from the fuse block. The other may be the purple striped that you see. Leave the can plugged in and turn on the key. Get behind the wires inside the connector. Check each wire to ground and see if your test light works.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I left the can plugged in (the wires were pink and purple like you mentioned John) and checked the prongs but my test light did not light up. This means there is something worng in the coloum right? Totally wierd, I left all wire connections alone when I did this, and I don't see how one could be messed up. Should I throw in the towel and take it to a shop or keep hunting for the problem? Thanks for your continued help everyone.


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'72 Nova
355 L-31 Vortec
TH-350
10-Bolt 2.56 Open, Rally Suspension
Weld Draglites (235/fr 255/rr)
3,071 lbs. w/ Full Cell
--------------------------------------
'70 Chevelle, gutted.
 

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No towels yet. Pink is the input to the turn signal can. It needs to have 12 volts on it. This 12 volts comes FROM the fuse block, through the turn signal can and to the column. Without this 12 volts there is no power to the turn signals. Just as a double-check: Unplug the can. Turn the key on. Check again if there is no power to the pink wire. One end of your test light on the pink wire. The other end of the test light to a good ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
No dice. I'm not getting anything from the pink wire's prong on the connector with the key on. Totally wierd. This wire goes direct to the fuse block? I don't see how it could have come off/broken but do you think it is fixable? Thanks again John.

------------------
'72 Nova
355 L-31 Vortec
TH-350
10-Bolt 2.56 Open, Rally Suspension
Weld Draglites (235/fr 255/rr)
3,071 lbs. w/ Full Cell
--------------------------------------
'70 Chevelle, gutted.
 

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Registered
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7,762 Posts
If you don't see the 12 volts on that pink wire, I'm guessing a bad fuse. That same pink wire should be the same pink wire as the back-up lights. If the back-ups are not working (and they did), bad fuse is the answer. You can check the back-up circuit by looking at the neutral safety/back-up light switch. This is located on the top lower part of the column. It is curved or horseshoe shaped. Your 72 should have 3 connectors on it. The one connector with the pink and green is the back-up light connector. Pink should have 12 volts on it with the key on.
The turn signal fuse (I THINK) is one up from the left bottom. If there is no power to the turn signal can or the back-up lights, try changing the fuse. May look good but be bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The fuse checked out ok. Although, when I checked it, it was weird. I put another 20A fuse in it, then checked both sides of the fuse with the light. THe right side of the fuse would always light but the left side of the fuse wouldn't light every time I touched it, just sometimes, then it blew when I kept poking the light at it. I did replace the neutral safety switch with the one from the Chevelle and it was working fine. But now it wont even crank in Park, just neutral, did I blow the NSS also? Man, this is just going down hill! Thanks for your help though....

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'72 Nova
355 L-31 Vortec
TH-350
10-Bolt 2.56 Open, Rally Suspension
Weld Draglites (235/fr 255/rr)
3,071 lbs. w/ Full Cell
--------------------------------------
'70 Chevelle, gutted.

[This message has been edited by 70Bowtie (edited 07-08-2002).]
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I popped in a new fuse, and checked for volts at the NSS and its a no go. My NSS has a plug with 2, 10 gauge purple wires and the plug you mentioned with the pink and green. The pink and green plug are not getting power with the key on. This seems a little grim, we seemed to have narrowed it all down already, I'm totally up the creek I guess..... Once again thanks for the help though, you've been a great sport.

------------------
'72 Nova
355 L-31 Vortec
TH-350
10-Bolt 2.56 Open, Rally Suspension
Weld Draglites (235/fr 255/rr)
3,071 lbs. w/ Full Cell
--------------------------------------
'70 Chevelle, gutted.
 

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Registered
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7,762 Posts
Try leaving the neutral safety switch unplugged and the turn signal can unplugged. See if you have 12 volts by touching one end of each side of the fuse (other end of the test light to ground). Then touch the probe to the fuse clip. Make a shiny spot on the clip if you have to. Should see 12 volts on both fuse clips with the key on. Test light should go out with the key off. This should tell you if the fuse clip is making contact.
If you see 12 volts on each side, again measure the pink wire on the turn signal can.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
John! Your great! I have been following your advice step by step since this morning and I am amazed at your patience. I guess my fuse block clips were a little rusty or something, because I took a light-abrasive brush and scraped them clean, installed a new fuse, tested both ends like you mentioned, then tested the NSS, and Can plug and I got conductivity! I replaced the can and it started to work. I guess this old car fuse block was just a bit "rusty" to use a pun. And once again I am in your debt for being so kind as to guide me through the steps all day long. You truly are the hero of the day for being so cool. If your ever in the Sierras, look me up and I'll buy 'ya a huge steak and a case of Sierra Nev. Pale Ale!! Thanks again!!


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'72 Nova
355 L-31 Vortec
TH-350
10-Bolt 2.56 Open, Rally Suspension
Weld Draglites (235/fr 255/rr)
3,071 lbs. w/ Full Cell
--------------------------------------
'70 Chevelle, gutted.
 

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Registered
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7,762 Posts
Cool. I just hate to see someone pay big bucks to someone to fix a loose connection. BTW, 2 things since you are here. 1, The Neutral Safety Start switch and the back-up lights switch are not related. They are just 2 independent switches housed in the same enclosure. A problem with one doesn't affect the other. They are 2 different circuits. 2, Buy a cheap multi-meter for your toolbox. Harbor Freight or Radio Shack has them for under $10.00. I bought a digital from Harbor Freight for $6.00 on sale. Not the greatest but works OK for most car stuff. Far easier with a meter than a test light.
Later
 
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