[kazuaki]

So, I am rewiring my '68 El Camino with a Painless Universal kit. At this point I have new tail light housings and wiring installed, a new headlight switch, and a new turn signal switch. I DO NOT have the front parking/turn signal lights installed yet, as I am waiting on the funds for new housings.

When I turn on the parking lights, both rears work fine. I can then activate the left or right turn signal and they blink fine. I can activate the brake light switch and the rears work fine. However, the moment I hit the hazard (4 way flasher) switch, the "hazard/dome" switch blows. BTW, the dome light works fine up until that point.

So, how is it that this happens? If my tail light wiring was incorrect, I would expect a blown fuse on the brake lights or turn signals as well. Caould my brand new turn signal switch be the issue? What testing can I do to narrow this down?

Thanks!

 

[Philip]

Greg I would start with the hazard flasher since it is the easist thing to change.Next the hazard switch in the turn signal switch assembly and the wiring to the hazard flasher. These are the only parts of the system that are not common to all the other functions you mentioned.

 

[kazuaki]

I will try swapping the hazard flasher and turn signal flasher. As for the switch...what do I check? Is there a way to test it? The turn signal/hazard switch is brand new.

 

[kazuaki]

OK, swapping the hazard and turn flasher made no difference. Any other ideas? I'm really stumped here...

 

[Dean]

You sure the disconnected front turn signal wires aren't touching something?

I know that should blow the turn signal fuse but I would double check anyway.

 

[Elree Colby]

This is a long shot. The signal/emg flasher switch/harness has a white wire from the brake switch, painless wire # 918. When selecting either right or left turn signal this wire is disconnected and the turn flasher is connected to the right or left rear, front and dash lights. When switching on the emerg flashers power connects from the emerg flasher to the white wire input that gets emerg flasher power to both rear lights, this also puts power on the white wire to the brake light switch. If the white wire is grounded at the switch, when the pedal is out, it would be isolated from the signal fuse by the signal switch but not isolated from the emerg flasher/dome light fuse when the emerg flashers are on. After looking at the circuits this is the only thing that I can see that might cause the fuse blowing problem when all else works.

What size is the fuse, should be 25 A?

At the signal switch assembly connector with the switch disconnected, you can use a jumper wire to jump power from the brown wire, painless wire #951, to the white wire #918. If the fuse blows you will know that the short is associated with the brake light circuit. If it doesn't blow, jump power from brn #951 to ltblue #926, left front/dash lights. Then jump #951 to blue # 925, right front/dash. If the fuse blows you will know what circuit to check for the problem.

 

[kazuaki]

Elree, thanks a bunch. Your tips helped me find the problem.

OK, I found the issue, but I need help with a solution. The "leaf spring thing" on the turn signal is touching the metal of the steering column. Then the "leaf spring" is touching the contact plate on the turn signal cam. This is the best I can describe it. Please look at the pictures below. This grounds the flasher circuit when the haxard switch is pushed in. What is the correct way to deal with this? Am I supposed to do something to keep the spring from touching the column? Or should the spring and contact plate not touch? This is an brand new M&H switch, so I would think the quality is good. Let me know what you think. Thanks!

SPRING TOUCHING COLUMN

SPRING TOUCHING CONTACT PLATE

 

[Redmanf1]

If you loosen the three screws in the single assembly you might have enough movement to slide it away from the column.

 

[kazuaki]

I just gave that a quick try and it doesn't seem I can move it, even with the screws loose. I'll mess with it some more later, but I am curious how everybody else's are. I can't help but think the spring should not be touching that contact plate (second picture). Anyone else?

 

[John_Muha]

Yeah, I don't ever remember hitting those contacts after I replaced the springs. You still have the old switch?

 

[kazuaki]

Yes. Maybe I can just grind down those tabs so they don't stick up so far. Seems like the kind of thing you shouldn't have to do with a new switch, though.

 

[red68chevL]

Isn't there a plastic piece that slides between the housing and the switch and is held in by the turn signal lever? Or am I thinking about the tilt lever arm?

 

[kazuaki]

I don't have that piece, but my car is far from original. Anybody else have this piece?

 

[Dean]

Maybe you're thinking of the black plastic cap that goes on top of the lock plate.

 

[kazuaki]

Well, I am pretty confident that the spring should not touch the contact plate as it does in the second picture. In addition to that, I am going to make a plastic "shield" to isolate the turn signal switch from the inside of the column. If anybody has any other ideas or comments, they are appreciated.

 

[Philip]

Remove the spring and file a groove in it to clear the contacts.

<edit> I looked at the 5 GM turn signal switches in my shop and on every one the contacts are either below or even with the nylon housing. Maybe it would be better to file the top of the contact down or call Painless and request another one.

 

[John D]

Idea: Take a strip of that clear 1/32" plastic they stick in new shirt collars and crazy glue it along the inside of the housing. It'll insulate the tabs, and prevent a short.

 

[kazuaki]

Good idea John. I came up with something similar last night. I cut up the plastic cap from a black spray paint can and put it in there. Seems to take care of the problem. Thanks for all the help!