Chevelles.com banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, i have a 68 with a 327 in it. The car has been sitting for 15 years and has not been started or even turned over during that time. Do not know why it stopped running.

I am not an engine expert but i am sure there has to be some surface rust in the cylinders since it hasnt been turned over or lubed up. What i was thinking is to dump "something" down the carbuerators, spark plugs, let it sit, eat up the rust, then change drain the system of this "something" and oil, pour some oil in it again and try and turn the motor over by hand to free it up and lube it up. Once it is freed up i would change the oil in again to get any metal or rust out of the motor and then go from there and try and get her running again.

Does any one know of a better way or is this a decent idea? If this is a decent idea, does any one have some sort of mix for that 'something' like kerosene, wd40, liquid wrench, motor oil????

If anyone can help me out it would be much appreciated.

Right now i do not want to rebuild the motor so if i can get away with not doing it then that is my goal. If i ruin the cylinders, i ruin the cylinders and have to rebuild it anyway.

Let me know, it would be much appreciated

Thanks
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,554 Posts
I have heard that you should use marvel mystery oil. Let it sit and try turning it by hand. I have never tried this before, but I know people who swear by it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
452 Posts
Marvel mystery oil is what I have used but I always have two main concerns with an engine sitting for that long and not lubed for storage.

The rust in the cylinders and rings then the valve springs on the engine that were stuck in the open position for all those years.

Depending on the climate the surface rust can be minimal but I have noticed engines that sit can develop stuck rings which can really cause issues.

I would use a penetrating oil such as PB Blaster in the spark plug holes and down each intake port, let it sit for a day then try and turn the motor over with a wrench on the balancer bolt. As long as you don't force it too much it should work free and not hurt anything.

You could do this a few times so it cleans all the loose rust out and lubricates the valves to avoid one sticking. I would then change the oil and filter, install new plugs, wires, rebuild carb,and change fuel filter. If the tank was not drained do not try and put new fuel in it and run it, the tank will need to be taken out and cleaned. I would run a line from the fuel pump to a gas can so you start it with clean fuel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,856 Posts
PB Blaster and MMO are the two fluids of my choice also. Take your time and give it a go!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,298 Posts
Old guy answer,We just pull the coil wire,crank till oil pres. goes up,START.Just did one last summer.Motor sat at least 15 yrs.Started and is still running.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,277 Posts
We had an engine that was seized in a 1940 chevy. Actually filled the sparkplug holes with Marvel Mystery oil and put the trans in gear. We let it sit for a few days and continued to try to rock it back and forth until it broke free. The car had sat for about 16-17 years. We got it started and drove it around.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,882 Posts
You can use whatever you like to loosen it up, but if there is any rust or corrosion in the cylinders no matter what you do that loose material has only one direction to go! If you seriously think the cylinders have rust issue, at the very least inspect it internally. Whether you use a scope or do it by pulling a head, just do it. If you want to make use of this engine in the future whatever time and money spent to inspect it will pay dividends in the future in not having destroyed cylinder walls and pistons and valves.

AND, just because it has sat for a long time does not mean it is corroded inside. I pulled apart a rare '64 GTO engine that has sat in the car outside for over 20 years and it was not corroded inside.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
308 Posts
I have used PB Blaster for years its great, it also the best thing ever for hornets or bees but one thing that happened to me was I had an old IR T-30 compressor maybe 15 years old , it was used when I got it. I did the reed valves a dozen times . It wasn't building up any pressure I was thinking worn or stuck rings, the guy who works for me said hey spray PB Blaster in the intake it should loosen up the rings. It sounded like a great idea. I pulled off the air cleaner sprayed Blaster in the intake while running after about a minute it locked up solid. Still have it the flywheel won't budge. So if you use Blaster it may work great to loosen things up but I wouldn't try starting the engine with Blaster in there.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,557 Posts
I just did the PB Blaster thing to an engine in an 86 Grand Prix 2+2 that had bees sitting since 95. Pulled the plugs, sprayed some Blaster in each cylinder, cut the air pump belt and cranked it over several times til it was cranking good. Installed new plugs, poured some good gas in the carb and started it up, no noise, minimal smoke, none after it was running. I checked the oil first and made sure the trans had fluid and the rad had coolant. runs ok and seems to be good at this time. The rest of the car needs a lot of attention.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,856 Posts
2+2 :thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
thanks for the help guys. i am really pumped to get it going. i will definetly post the results. should be doing this in about a month. gotta get it in the barn first... then get on the motor
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Can any one confirm that PB blaster will seize the motor if its not cleaned out?

If so, i guess fill up the cylinders with it get the motor to break free and then drain the PB, MMO, and the engine oil that has been in there for 20 years, change the filter and put in new oil. then try to start the heap. Does that sound like a decent plan?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
A friend of mine just picked up a Buick Nailhead 401 that has been sitting for 10 - 12 years, on the fly wheel side believe it or not. We got the motor to my house and put it on the engine stand, put Marvels Mystery Oil in through the spark plug holes and let it sit for a couple of days. Put a wrench to the balancer bolt and carefully turned it over. It was a little tight at first, but once we started turning it became much easier very quickly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
414 Posts
if you plan on flooding the cyllinders with MMO or PB, maybe you ought to be sure & crank it over with the starter while the plugs are out so it will blow any excess out the plug holes. no sense on taking a chance of hydraulicing it... maybe change oil & prime it first too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
We started a 350 motor that had sat 10 yrs. the same way, Marvel M Oil in spark plug holes sat a week, turned crankshaft by hand, primed oil pump and cranked it. This motor was purchased from Racing Head Service in 1985 Chevelle. Very strong engine.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,921 Posts
I started a LS5 70 Chevelle that had been sitting for 25 years. Marvel Mystery Oil rules.
My LS5 had sat from 1978-2004....a little MMO in the holes for a couple days,spin the engine on the starter with the plugs out for a few seconds,replace plugs and FIRE it up!:yes:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,926 Posts
My 355 sat on a stand since 95 till last summer. We sprayed wd40 in the spark plug holes and sealed it up. Got it out a shot some pb blaster and let it sit for a day, then shot in some reg oil and spun it over. It spun easy. Got it in the car and it fired right up. Runs great!
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top