[Dave]

When you have converted to either the LS1 rear's, or I saw the Steeltech conversion, with the Caddy calipers with built in e-brake. I've read of an awful lot of people who converted, just not really heard of anybody who has gotten the cable's to work.

Just trying to decide, if the steeltech work's that well, I might just go with it, but if I can get the E-brake to work with the LS1, I'll get the bigger disk's.

 

[64BeachBum]

After some research i decided to go with the 93+ F-body rear brakes with the E-brake built into the caliper. I think the E-brake cable positioning works out better and you can either buy premade Baer cables that bolt right in, or you can have some easily custom made.

 

[MJRIBEIRO]

Dave - I believe I've found a workaround for the LS1 ebrake on the narrow rears (not a problem for rears '68+). I don't have it together yet, but it looks like I can easily section 3/8" out of the lever and weld it back together. Stock cables, will just have to use a different cable end. (available from inline tube and others for a few bucks).

 

[Dave]

So are you saying that hooking up the E-brake with the LS1 conversion on a 68-72 12-bolt is no problem? I've read about how it look's like it can be done, but I have yet to find anyone who's posted that they did it.

 

[MJRIBEIRO]

Should be a no fab, bolt on, for the wider rear. You have an extra 1/2" between the LCA brackete and the axle housing flange to allow for the lever to clear. I'm out of town now, but next week I'll post some pics....

 

[Dave]

By flipping the mount around, it sound's like it might work. But I have yet to find anyone who has posted that they got it hooked up.

I went ahead and ordered the Steeltech mount, and found that Summit has all of the stuff needed to finish the conversion. Good looking stuff, and the price is not out of line with going to NAPA, for the cheap stuff.

Drilled an slotted rotors, Bendix caliper's, and Bendix pad's, all for about $240.00.

Just kinda in a delimna about not going with an E-brake.

 

[back2chevelle]

dont know if we are talking about the same thing. i have caddy calipers on the rear and used 69 chevy truck cables there about 3-4 inches longer. but my intermediate cable could use to be a little shorter. but the e brake works. havent had time to look for shorter cable yet. and still need to try the 77 vette mc to see if i can get a better pedal. i hope this helps.

 

[Dave]

Cool, that's good to know. I'm heading that way myself right now. Haven't decided if I'm gonna use the Camaro, or the Caddy calipers. But you're saying that the intermediate cable could just be shortened up a couple of inches, to make it work?

What I'm really wondering, is if Anybody has gotten the LS1 E-brake working on a 68-72 lenght differential.

 

[Daygoslow]

Cool, that's good to know. I'm heading that way myself right now. Haven't deciced if I'm gonna use the Camaro, or the Caddy calipers. But you're asying that the intermediate cable could just be shortened up a couple of inches, to make it work?

What I'm really wondering, is if Anybody has gotten the LS1 E-brake working on a 68-72 lenght differential.

x2

 

[Kimberr]

I have a 69' and I had to space the backing plates out 1/4" to center the rotor to the caliper and to clear the e-brake lever from hitting the LCA mount.You can cut the LS1 e-brake bracket and bolt it to the LCA mount and get a custom cable made .It is basically a stock Chevelle cable a bit longer but with an LS1 fitting on one end.Ckeck out Street Rod Manufacturing web site ,they list a custom cable builder and the are way cheaper than anybody else.

 

[MJRIBEIRO]

Kimber - I've only heard of people needing to space 1/16" of an inch with the LS1 backing plate/abutment/rotor. Do you have after market axle shafts (which may be longer)? Or are you mixing a C5 rotor or abutment into the mix? 1/4" seems like too much.

 

[Dave]

In all of the searching that I've done lately, it's seem's to be about an 1/8th. But it's good to hear that you got your e-brake working. I've decided to just go with the SteelTech, so I can still run my 15" Rallye's. Hopefully, at the worst I might be able to grind alittle.

 

[Kimberr]

I thought 1/4" was a bit much too(I made a complete shim that covers the whole flange out of 1/4" steel)but that's what It took to center the rotor in the abutment.I have stock replacement Moser axles and all the brake stuff is stock LS1.My diff housing is 60 3/16" overall and 55 5/16" outer flange to flange.It will still work If I shim it less and not have the rotor totally centered but the e-brake pads are not all the way in the inside of the rotor.With the solid shim and new grade 8 bolts I think it will be strong enough.

 

[Dave]

With the solid shim and new grade 8 bolts I think it will be strong enough.

I'd think so.:thumbsup:

 

[MJRIBEIRO]

Short answer is still no for me - but I think I have a plan.
Below is a picture of our culprit - the ebrake lever on a LS1 backing plate. In this shot, picture this backing plate mounted to your left rear wheel. The lever in the situation would be set up for the cable to 'pull' forward towards the front of the car, like our stock setup.

The reason we have a clearance issue - at least on the narrow 12 bolts is due to the proximity of the LCA mount to the housing flange. The narrow rears have 1/2" less clearance per side between these two points. This is taken from in front of the rear wheel. not the best shot, but my battery died - sorry.

Picture that lever needing to fit in that gap - kind of tight when you set up for the cable to 'pull' forward.
Many have suggested flipping the plates to the opposite sides. Look above at the backing plate and picture that on the right rear wheel. Due to the rearward angle of the LCA mount, the clearance issue clears up. The problem then is that youu need to pull that lever to the rear of the car. Doable, but you need a long cable and you'll have to bend it 180*. Not the best.
So here's my plan - that lever comes out, so it's relatively easy to modify. After fittiing the backing plate with the correct size shims (somewhere between 1/16"-1/4"), I'll measure and cut a section out out of the lever, maybe even reposition it forward a bit and weld it back together - this would maintain the 'hook' on the end for the cable.
In this shot - picture the section between the scribe line and the end of the grime cut out and welded back together.

I might lose some leverage - but I really don't think it will be enough to hurt with a foot operated pedal. And the more shim I need, the less I need to cut out.
I still need some parts, and life's getting in the way again - I'm a month away from actually starting - So to get back to the original question, no I haven't actually got the brakes to work yet - but I think I can! I'll put a pictorial together when I do it....

 

[RAGTP66]

Just a thought has anyone tried flipping them left to right and then rotate 180 degrees to the levers are at the 12o'clock position instead of at 6 o'clock. That way they would still be "pulling" Just a thought ?

 

[Randy 67EC]

The only problem is that the bolt pattern is not symetrical(top is wider than bottom), so you can't flip them over, at least not without a bit of modifying.