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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to get the heater hoses away from the valve covers. Routing those 5/8" and ¾" rubber hoses can be a pain in the butt, not to mention they're unsightly. I have thought about using "Hard Lines" such as metal tubing. Has anybody done this or seen it elsewhere? I need some tips, ideas, or concerns.

Here are a few concerns that come to mind:
1. Radiant heat from the steel lines.
2. Will steel lines rust?
3. Painting steel lines?
4. Stainless? Costly, yip!
5. Making the connection at the water pump?
6.......


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Dale
Lowered '67 Elcamino
ZZ430HP / 4L60
"Canyon Carver"

www.chevelles.com/showroom/elkydriveway1.jpeg
 

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Dale, I think it would be mint. Only place I've seen it is on my 89 Corsica. They wanted an arm and a leg for the replacement so I rubberized it. Keep that in mind, steel tube might not last all that long. this one was 5 yrs old and 75000. It looked pretty thin wall though./
 

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I would be careful that you give yourself enough "slack" in the hard lines. The engine "torque rolls" on the mounts.(rotates about a given centerline as you rev the engine)So you need to make sure you allow some flex in your lines...
As far as routing rubber lines you can mount them to the inner fenderwell with a clip that they sell in the catalogs

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71 Malibu 454/4speed
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Dale,
I have done it in rubber but if you have to have steel, stainless would be a must and expensive.

I did a '70 SS454 Monte Carlo custom show car that I hid all the plumbing and water lines. I used rubber lines as opposed to steel but the results looked great. I routed the lines down behind the alternator, along the frame, under the battery, behind the passenger fender (in the dead space above the well) and exited under the hinge. I finished with a 90 degree preformed hose at the box. The finished results looked very good. The electrical was done that same way. In this particular case, the firewall, inner fenders, under hood and core support were all painted red to match the exterior. Pollished aluminum valve covers and air cleaner finished it off. It left a VERY clean appearing engine compartment.

If Mike was as helpful as before, I can e-mail him the pictures and have him post for me tomorrow.

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"Details Make the Difference"
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
JeffK-
Duhhhhhh...... I forgot about the flex lines


Rick_Nelson-
I have a small block and the A/C - Heater fan box prevents me from routing it between the inner & outer fender
Thanks


Jblack-
Engine rock is a concern even with polyurathane mounts


427L88-
Life expectancy was one of my major concerns also


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Dale
Lowered '67 Elcamino
ZZ430HP / 4L60
"Canyon Carver"

www.chevelles.com/showroom/elkydriveway1.jpeg
 

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Dale,

I simply ran mine down the front of the engine and behind the fenderwell back to the heater. Using run-of-the-mill black hose, they are not that prominent. I used a *trick* piece on the water pump hose out of necessity to clear the EFI unit. Take one 90 degree 5/8" hose and connect it to a shower pipe. Connect the regular heater hose to the other end. Doesn't leak and hasn't overheated in the year or so I've had it on!

http://www.dalesplace.com/march/alt_adj_bracket01.jpg

It worked out so well I may do it to the manifold hose too.



If you want them to stand out, there's always that polished stainless steel *ribbed* hose (also comes in black) for about $130 from Summit and Jegs. According to the Summit catalog, the kit comes with 2 hoses 44" long and four ends, stainless steel clamps and reducer inserts.

I can only imagine how they would retain and radiate heat
but could be wrong. I've seen them on some really chromed out engines and I doubt that they're driven much.

BTW, the matching radiator hose (48" worth) is only $135.

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Dale McIntosh
TC Gold #92
ACES #1709
www.dalesplace.com
Restore it or customize it, but drive it and enjoy it!

[This message has been edited by Dale McIntosh (edited 04-23-2001).]
 
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