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Discussion Starter #1
I bought the guage conversion kit and everything works except the temp. guage. It is wired correctly and the new temp sensor is in. The engine harness is new and the dash harness has been checked out. The engine is at temp. When you turn the ing. on the guage moves in the wrong direction like it was wired wrong. I checked the wiring per the directions and it's okay. If you look at the back of the guage the hot wire is on the bottom terminal and the green is on the top. I didn't use any tape on the sensor threads.
 

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Not sure what to say on this. Sounds like you hooked it up right. Does the gage have a ground? It needs one. If there isn't a separate lead for a ground, the gage frame needs to be grounded.
 

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Eddie,
Was looking at those conversion kits and was wondering if they were any good. Outside of your temp guage problem how do you like it? Do you use the original round dash idiot lite wiring harness or what? Would you recommend this kit"
Thanks,
Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Jeff, The kit I installed was from Shiftworks it was easy to install and looks great. I think I have a ground problem. I haven't had the time this week to fool with it but I'll check it out today. I talked to the mfg. and he suggested some things to try. If the guage is bad they told me to send it back and they will replace it. I had the dash out of the car when I did mine since it needed repainting so it was an easy installation but you could do it fairly easy with the dash in. I removed the temp/oil cluster and installed it with out any problems. It will help you a
lot if you remove the ash tray and bracket. Will keep you posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Solved the problem. When I hooked up the green wire(sending unit)I tapped it off of the green wire that ran to the idiot light. Figured if the guage went bad I would still have the light. The light also has a hot wire on one side must drain through the bulb? It sould still work but when I cut the light out the guage works fine.
 

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Did you remove the gnd in start wire from the dash harness. This is a brown wire from the ignition switch that sends a gnd to the temp light wire to check the bulb when key is in start position. It may not hurt the gauge to leave it is but everytime you start the car it will peg the gauge hot.
 

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Don't want to answer for Steve but you can't do that with the existing idiot light. The input will just see 12 volts (actually a little less) from the idiot light and won't operate.
 

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I now have a 67, and like the idea of full gauges. Ed, how much did this conversion kit cost?
 

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The input will just see 12 volts (actually a little less) from the idiot light and won't operate
John - What regulates the input voltage when using a gauge. I have to wire mine up "from scratch" and I assumed the temp sender controlled voltage by variable resistance depending on temperature.

If that was the case I should only need a 12 vdc source to one side of the gauge and the other side would go to the temp sender.
 

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The original question to Steve was:
"Steve, if I took care of that could you than run the light in parallel so you would have both the guage and light?"

Wasn't sure if he was around so by 9:00 Pacific Time I answered:

"Don't want to answer for Steve but you can't do that with the existing idiot light. The input will just see 12 volts (actually a little less) from the idiot light and won't operate.

The original idiot light circuit operates with a switch sender screwed into the head. The green wire comes from the sender and goes to the ignition switch. Another green wire runs from the ignition switch to one side of the light bulb. The other side of the light bulb goes to 12 volts when the key is on. When the engine gets too hot the off/on switch sender shorts to ground and the light goes on. The reason the green wires go to the ignition switch is to short them to ground as you turn the key. This is the way the idiot light bulb is tested each time you turn on the car.

" What regulates the input voltage when using a gauge. I have to wire mine up "from scratch" and I assumed the temp sender controlled voltage by variable resistance depending on temperature."

Nothing really varies the input voltage. When one swaps from an idiot light to a gage the sender in the head gets replaced from an off/on switch type to a variable resistor. As you mentioned it changes the resistance to ground as temperature changes.
Steve mentioned to remove the green wires off the ignition switch. They aren't needed there anymore to test the idiot light and now will peg the temperature meter as you turn on the car.

"Why can't the idiot light be simply tied on to the same green wire as the new variable resistor sender?"

Two things will happen. The idiot light now is tied to ground through the variable sender resistor. Suspect it will be dimly lit. Also instead of providing a ground to the meter (from the variable resistor) you would be providing a positive voltage. This voltage comes through the lamp filament from the 12 volt switched power. The voltage is dependent on how hot the engine gets because the sender is variable. Guessing the temp meter may not be damaged but it won't work.
 

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So, running a wire from the ign circuit (coming off the fused ign termnial on the fuse box) to the gauge then to the sender will work? (Sorry for hijacking the thread but this I am trying to wire my gauge console in and the water temp is the last thing I have left to do)
 

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Thanks, that answers my question alright.
I only had a add on mechanical gauge before, the light wasn't working and there was no green wire left in my engine or lighting harness under the hood.
I am running the wire to a electric temp gauge in my console, (actually a 66 caprice console adpated to fit my 67 chevelle) and given the location of my ignition switch and the condition of my dash harness, pulling a wire from the fuse box over to the gauge harness on the console is a breeze.
 
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