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How many ground do you need on the car.. More or less do you need a ground from the engine to the frame? Would this cause the car from not getting a charge from the alternator. So far I have the negative battery cable bolted to the alternator bracket and the loose wire on the negative cable bolted to the front fender? Do I need any other grounds?

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ACES Member #2987
1972 Chevelle SS
1987 GTA
1998 Camaro SS (Y2Y)
1978 Pontiac TransAm
 

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Yes, the engine needs to be grounded to the body and the frame both

{edit} 7/10

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by John_Muha:


A frame ground is not needed.



I stand corrected


thanks John
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


The NEG cable should really be bolted to the block (but the alternator bracket should be ok) and there should be ground straps from the engine to the body as well as the ground wire from the NEG cable pigtail to the fender




[This message has been edited by Dean (edited 07-10-2002).]
 

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"Yes, the engine needs to be grounded to the body and the frame both…."

Why Dean? The question was "More or less do you need a ground from the engine to the frame? Would this cause the car from not getting a charge from the alternator."

Though adding ground straps may not be a bad idea, it won't fix a charging problem. The only ground cables needed are one to the engine block and one to the body. A frame ground is not needed. A 72 has nothing tied to the frame, like your 69. In 71, Chevy pulled the signal lamps out of the bumpers and added a ground wire to the lamps. My 72 never had any ground straps to the frame.
 

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What is the engine ground needed for and where should it be coming from? I recently put my battery in the trunk, my Neg cable grounds to the rear frame, and I have a 10 ga. wire coming from the Neg bat terminal to a bolt on the trunk latch. Is this sufficient to ground to? My engine/lights and all that jazz run fine. Just curious about the engine ground though.... Should I ground it from the frame as well since I have no battery in the engine bay? Thanks again John.


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'72 Nova
355 L-31 Vortec
TH-350
10-Bolt 2.56 Open, Rally Suspension
Weld Draglites (235/fr 255/rr)
3,071 lbs. w/ Full Cell
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'70 Chevelle, gutted.
 

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"What is the engine ground needed for…."

On an original basic car the ground or return line to the battery is needed for:
1, Solenoid/Starter to start the car.
2, Idiot light sender grounds; Temp, Oil.
3, Alternator

"and where should it be coming from?"

Battery normally

"I recently put my battery in the trunk, my Neg cable grounds to the rear frame, and I have a 10 ga. wire coming from the Neg bat terminal to a bolt on the trunk latch. Is this sufficient to ground to?"

So how is the starter getting power? You have a fat lead to the solenoid for the positive side. The ground side needs to be the same. That's why a large lead was originally run to the engine block.

"My engine/lights and all that jazz run fine. Just curious about the engine ground though...."

Why is your GEN light on? Just asking.

"Should I ground it from the frame as well since I have no battery in the engine bay?"

Yes, your engine should have a large cable to the frame. Otherwise the starter doesn't have a large enough wire to it. The starter motor needs two wires to turn; the positive and negative (ground).
 

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Cool I'll use some of the extra 4 ga. welder cable I got for the pos side in the kit and put it from the original neg. cable mount to a bolt in the frame. This should work.... Right?


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'72 Nova
355 L-31 Vortec
TH-350
10-Bolt 2.56 Open, Rally Suspension
Weld Draglites (235/fr 255/rr)
3,071 lbs. w/ Full Cell
--------------------------------------
'70 Chevelle, gutted.
 

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For what its worth in addition to the grounds you are talking about my 72 has a 1/4" wide ground strap from one of the intake manifold bolts to the firewall on the passenger side. It's a factory installed ground.
 

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OK guys, Most of us will tear down something mechanical to it's smallest part, but "Eddie Electron" baffles us. Electricity is very simple, a "Goes inta, Goes Outta" force. There is copper wire on the supply side, properly guaged for the load, and the entire steel structure for the return path to the battery. If the steel pieces aren't electrically conductive to eachother, gremlins appear.
To eliminate most woes, make sure your negative battery cable connection to the engine block is good. Good means bare metal to metal contact, a "star" washer biting into the steel, and tight. The body is somewhat insulated from the frame by the rubber biscuits, and the engine by the rubber mounts. Rubber doesn't conduct, and the miniscule contact from the mounting bolts isn't enough to ensure good conductivity. Install a 10 ga. (minimum) cable or braided strap between the engine and body, and the body and frame (see "good" connection above). This should solve your grounding problems.
PS - With a trunk mounted battery, install a ground cable (at least 50% of the guage to the positive) between the body and frame, AND the engine block to frame or body. Your starter motor pulls some MAJOR current, and the return must be equivalent to the supply.
Hope this helps.
John D. (IBEW journeyman)


[This message has been edited by John D (edited 07-11-2002).]
 
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