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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can someone please tell me how many ground straps are supposed to be on a 66 Velle? I have one on the fender to the frame and there was one on the firewall but dont know were it goes.Having a problem starting when it's hot. Thought I'd start here first.
Thanx in advance

Steve

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Steve (The Doctor)
66 chevelle(327)
afr 195's(10.3:1)
air gap w/holly 780
comp XE268H
TH350 (2400 stall)
3:73 rear
(383 in the works)

"new short block..$2,500
"nos setup..$400
"odds and ends....$1,00
"The look on your wifes face when the visa bill comes in........Priceless
 

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Can't answer your ground strap question but they won't fix a hot start problem. The only grounds you need, to start and run the engine, are the large one from battery (-) to the engine block. Also the smaller one from battery (-) to the right inside fender.
Check your battery cables. Both sides of the 2 cables should be clean and tight. After that the problem tends to be solenoid/starter providing the battery is in decent shape.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanx for getting back to me.What actualy do these ground straps do? motor and chassis.and the pig tail from the batt?


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Steve (The Doctor)
66 chevelle(327)
afr 195's(10.3:1)
air gap w/holly 780
comp XE268H
TH350 (2400 stall)
3:73 rear
(383 in the works)

"new short block..$2,500
"nos setup..$400
"odds and ends....$1,00
"The look on your wifes face when the visa bill comes in........Priceless
 

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5,886 Posts
If they are not properly connected it can screw up some electrical stuff like gauges. My small ground from the negative cable to fender broke earlier this year and I had some funny readings at times. Ended up replacing the whole cable at "John Muha's" suggestion. You do need them.



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ACES #4241, TC #947
69 SS Sedan
CanAm Chevelle Club
 

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You will have five grounding points, the neg cable goes to engine block, a pigtail from neg cable that goes to the rad support brace, a braided ground strap from the frame to inner fender well on passanger side, just across from fuel pump, and you should also have braided ground straps that go from the last bolt on the bottom of your valve covers to firewall, on both sides!


Rocky Hill

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A Man And His Chevelle!
It's A Beautiful Thing.

My66SS
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanx again for the info Don.With checking the connections,hope this is cures the problem...


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Steve (The Doctor)
66 chevelle(327)
afr 195's(10.3:1)
air gap w/holly 780
comp XE268H
TH350 (2400 stall)
3:73 rear
(383 in the works)

"new short block..$2,500
"nos setup..$400
"odds and ends....$1,00
"The look on your wifes face when the visa bill comes in........Priceless
 

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60 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My neg.is going to one of my water pump bolts.Is this ok or should it go somewhere else on the block.Sorry for the questions.I'm new to this Gremlin' stuff.

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Steve (The Doctor)
66 chevelle(327)
afr 195's(10.3:1)
air gap w/holly 780
comp XE268H
TH350 (2400 stall)
3:73 rear
(383 in the works)

"new short block..$2,500
"nos setup..$400
"odds and ends....$1,00
"The look on your wifes face when the visa bill comes in........Priceless
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by papaflacko:
Thanx for getting back to me.What actualy do these ground straps do? motor and chassis.and the pig tail from the batt?

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

The cable to the engine (water pump, alternator bracket) is for the starter and the rest of the enigine stuff. The wire to the right inside fender is for the interior items and other tings that are screwed to the body. Ground straps to the frame? The 64-70 have front turn signals mounted in the bumper (frame). They need a good ground to work the turn signals. My 72 does not have ground straps.
 

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OK guys, Most of us will tear down something mechanical to it's smallest part, but "Eddie Electron" baffles us. Electricity is very simple, a "Goes inta, Goes Outta" force. There is copper wire on the supply side, properly guaged for the load, and the entire steel structure for the return path to the battery. If the steel pieces aren't electrically conductive to eachother, gremlins appear.
To eliminate most woes, make sure your negative battery cable connection to the engine block is good. Good means bare metal to metal contact, a "star" washer biting into the steel, and tight. The body is somewhat insulated from the frame by the rubber biscuits, and the engine by the rubber mounts. Rubber doesn't conduct, and the miniscule contact from the mounting bolts isn't enough to ensure good conductivity. Install a 10 ga. (minimum) cable or braided strap between the engine and body, and the body and frame (see "good" connection above). This should solve your grounding problems.
PS - With a trunk mounted battery, install a ground cable (at least 50% of the guage to the positive) between the body and frame, AND the engine block to frame or body. Your starter motor pulls some MAJOR current, and the return must be equivalent to the supply.
Hope this helps.
John D. (IBEW journeyman)

PS - Consider a heat shield around your starter/solenoid assembly. Running headers will bake these into intermittant operation.


[This message has been edited by John D (edited 07-17-2002).]
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That all makes alot of scence.I do have some aluminum tape,as for duct work,and stuff.do you think this would work as well,not that I mind getting a heat sheild if I need to.Just a thought.
Thank you all again



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Steve (The Doctor)
66 chevelle(327)
afr 195's(10.3:1)
air gap w/holly 780
comp XE268H
TH350 (2400 stall)
3:73 rear
(383 in the works)

"new short block..$2,500
"nos setup..$400
"odds and ends....$1,00
"The look on your wifes face when the visa bill comes in........Priceless
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanx John,and everyone else



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Steve (The Doctor)
66 chevelle(327)
afr 195's(10.3:1)
air gap w/holly 780
comp XE268H
TH350 (2400 stall)
3:73 rear
(383 in the works)

"new short block..$2,500
"nos setup..$400
"odds and ends....$1,00
"The look on your wifes face when the visa bill comes in........Priceless
 

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2,189 Posts
You're welcome. If memory serves, GM had a factory heat shield on 'Vette's around the '68 to '72 years (?). I made one in about an hour with some 18ga. aluminum sheet, starting with a 12"x12" piece. It attaches to the outboard starter mounting bolt, and the 1/4-20 tapped hole in the block above the oil pan rail (originally for the "starter brace" bracket. The easiest way to do this is find a buddy with a engine on a stand. Hang a starter / solenoid assy. on it, and bend - hammer - tweak - trim the sheet to fit. Remember to leave clearance around the solenoid so you can swing a wrench to attach the wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Think I'll be going to the hardware store today.Cheap easy ,thats me,just ask my wife.
Again,thanx

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Steve (The Doctor)
66 chevelle(327)
afr 195's(10.3:1)
air gap w/holly 780
comp XE268H
TH350 (2400 stall)
3:73 rear
(383 in the works)

"new short block..$2,500
"nos setup..$400
"odds and ends....$1,00
"The look on your wifes face when the visa bill comes in........Priceless
 
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