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grand cherokee conversion...centering problem

988 Views 3 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  vrooom3440
Hello, just finished the GC conversion, used my old pump with the adapter fittings from Lee Mfg.

the steering is much tighter now, but The car seems to take a lot more effort to make it turn. I can live with this ...What I cant live with is the fact that after rounding a corner the car doesnt seem to pull the steering wheel back to center as you let the wheel slip through your hands. You have to grip the wheel and turn it back.

any ideas on this? Would it help to loosen the lock nut on top and turn the allen head bolt to loosen the worm gear? Do I need a new box with higher output pressure?

If I need to change the pressure control valve on the pump..where do I get one? Can it be changed with the Lee Mfg. fittings?

I know this post contains a lot of questions. I am really concened with the way the steering feels now and would appreciate all input on these problems?
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Ok... first it is supposed to take more effort to turn. This is a function of the internal hydraulic control valve T-bar. Your original Chevelle box may have had something like a 0.165" T-bar while the Jeep GC has a 0.195" T-bar. This is how you get steering feel and most of us think of this as a very good thing.

Do not touch that bolt on top of the steering box unless you have a real need to. If you loosen it up you will just create slop in the steering. I doubt you want that. And it should only need to be tightened up is parts wear inside, and that is probably not an issue either.

The steering neutralization was always an issue with GM cars. It is mostly a factor of how much caster you have in your front end alignment. Stock parameters, which are not recommended, called for zero degrees of caster. Most these days recommend as much as you can get with the stock parts which is usually around 2-3* positive. Having your alignment changed to include positive caster will improve the neutralization quite a bit.

The pressure valve is a secondary issue. The newer gear specs do call for a higher maximum pressure but you only see this under parking lot turning conditions and/or at full lock. If your steering effort is not impossible turning without moving, then I would not worry about the pressure valve.

Now there is a second function in the control valve and that is flow *volume* control. That regulates how much fluid circulates through the steering system. It probably will not cause you any problems either.
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I sure does feel different... just imagine: I went up to a 0.210" T-bar *and* a smaller steering wheel. And I could not be happier with the results either B)

What you want to tell the mechanic is to give you as much positive caster as he can with the limits of what you have and matching side to side. Most modern designs use 4-5* of positive caster. Some of the pro-turing folks run 6-8*. Your factory parts, presuming that is what you have, will limit you quite a bit here. I think I got around 3* on my '68 El Camino.
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