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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I picked my motor up from Auto truck services yesterday. They installed the cam and AFR210 heads. Unfortuanately the piston to valve clearance once enough for the cam to be installed 108 but installed 110 there was enough clearance. Hopefully this wont hurt performance. I am also looking at getting that nitrous kit from craigslist. All I have left is install the motor the new rims and tires,and shocks. Hopefully the motor doesnt fight with me when going back in. Do you guys have any tricks or suggestions on the easiest way to get the motor back in.

Matt
 

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I picked my motor up from Auto truck services yesterday. They installed the cam and AFR210 heads. Unfortuanately the piston to valve clearance once enough for the cam to be installed 108 but installed 110 there was enough clearance. Hopefully this wont hurt performance. I am also looking at getting that nitrous kit from craigslist. All I have left is install the motor the new rims and tires,and shocks. Hopefully the motor doesnt fight with me when going back in. Do you guys have any tricks or suggestions on the easiest way to get the motor back in.

Matt
A case of Kokanee helps a bunch.

All kidding aside, hope it goes well and the car rips after install. Why did you remove the 200CC IK's, those would rip on Greg's special over the Bowties
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I changed the ik's because the AFR have better flow with higher lift cams. Hopefully it pays off. Plus my dad wanted the ik's for his car. It also didnt hurt that I was in Iraq with extra money which was burning a hole in my pocket:D. Well I just purchased that nitrous kit from craiglist. Just working the details out on shipping it to me since it isnt worth me to drive there. Now I gotta learn about proper use of nitrous and installation:hurray:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I hope so. If not I will have to spray it intil it does. Now I got to work on getting the car to hook.
 

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You'll want these: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=LAK%2D21312&N=700+4294908216+115&autoview=sku

and one of the rear sway bars from these guys: http://hrpartsandstuff.com/

You'll also want a pair of these for the front:http://www.santhuffshocks.com/springs.html

A pair of Hoosier or M/T stickies for the rear and skinnies on the front.

For shocks I'm running Lakewoods in the rear and Summits in the front, I know there are much better units for more money out there.

I'm just running stock replacement springs in the rear, I'm sure Brian or one of the other guys will have a better idea for you than that.

Do you have a driveshaft loop and an updated driveshaft?
If not you'll want one of each.:yes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I actually have varishock single adjustable shocks for the back and 15x3.5 prostars for the front with 15x10's with 295/65 et streets for the rear,and i do have a driveshaft loop. Hopefully the rear doesnt break apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I am gonna wait on the converter. I dont think the 700r4 is going to last very long. I already have a 400 being built for a spare.
 

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Wow, should be pretty peppy!

What is the torque converter of choice around here? Mine sucks, I think I have the same one George was running. I'd like to go with a 3000.
 

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Jeremy,

I had the Hughes GM25. I do think my 454 simply overpowered it or ???, it would only flash to about 2300 and slip 8+% on the top end...would not let me gain 20 mph.
Now run the B&M 3000. I slip about 6% and on a good run I gain nearly 21 mph.

Matt,

Are ya gonna make it to DOC's BBQ next SAT?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I am going to try my best. If every thing goes good maybe I will take the chevelle.:thumbsup:
 
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